Robb MC starters are excellent. My friend has one on his big block and fixed his starting issues. One thing here missed is GM used cast iron starters on 4 speed cars. My Chevelle is a 4 speed car. Had a cast iron. Heavy as heck. But can take a kick back. But it was never a modded car like we all have now.
schurkey; not really, I dont have a diagram that I followed, but I can wright it out. positive side goes from battery to kill switch, from kill switch to remote solenoid (in trunk), from solenoid to starter negative, from battery to transmission bolt variables... 2 ground straps, msd atomic positive and negative ran straight to battery
70 GMuscle I don't think the stock cast iron starter will hold up to my 10&3/4-1 compression and stage 2 headers
I have a stk style starter from autozone. it's about 20 years old now, put it back on after my db electrical just stopped spinning and smelled burnt. it spins my 12:1 464 no issues, locked out timing but cranking at 15* this starter has been awsome.......it does still fit with my stage 2 21/8" tubes, and my postons pan with -12 pickup, and my rerouted transmission lines. but to put it in and out is definitely order specfic........going to try a smaller lt1 starter this year.
It shouldn’t matter where the battery is so long as it’s all connected properly. I’m not sure about the ground to the transmission and what that’s doing. Run your negative cable directly to the engine block, a clean and tight connection. Make sure +/- wires are same size preferable 0 AWG. Why do you run a solenoid? What type of alternator do you have and how do you have that wired in conjunction with the battery and kill switch? I run 0AWG from the power master starter to a bulkhead terminal through the trunk and from there to the kill switch. A 6AWG from positive terminal from alternator to hot side of kill switch, and oAWG from hot side of kill switch to positive battery terminal. I run 0AWG to a post on the frame right under the battery where it is mated with a 0AWG that runs to the back of the engine block to the lower blot in the back of the pass side head. Runs copper ground straps from engine to firewall. I have another copper ground strap from rear number to frame just for sure contact for taillights. I like having the + and - posts accessible for easy charging and maintenance.
wow, that is ridiculously clean! I would be embarrassed to show pictures of mine. ok, my main ground from the battery goes directly to a "transmission to engine" bolt. I was told years ago to run the negative cable to the engine, and that is basically the engine. all main wires are the same gage/brand/type. I was using the solenoid to help with hot starts, but I don't think I need that with the starter im currently using, and since ive had my set up like this since before this starter, its just kind of out of convivence now, I pretty much use it as a junction block. running things like my amplifier to the positive side.
