Larry, I watched the video and I did everything he says to do. silvergs72, I have probably the biggest battery cable possible silverbuick, how would the msd issue multiple sparks simultaneously?
It's the MS in MSD M-ultiple S-park D-ischarge I'm not sure if your distributor does the multiple spark thing like a 6AL and other MSD boxes do, but if it does, because it sends multiple sparks, it may start ignition in one cylinder but carry over to another where a normal single spark would discharge its energy in one place and break connection as the rotor moved away. The 6AL box advertises spark duration over 20 of crankshaft rotation, which could be enough to start lighting up the next cylinder if the rotor phasing is to advanced and the spark timing is too low. If your distributor doesn't do the multiple spark thing, then that is one less thing to be looking at.
Drill the hole or holes on SIDE of the cap. You can even cut the section between the two holes out for a full-on view of the rotor phasing in action. Larry
[video]https://www.instagram.com/p/BE_qUiQwrZg/[/video] I cut a hole in the top if the #1 post, things look normal. The new starter is a high torque (not mini) starter. I also checked the timing and it was about 2-3 degrees off (advanced) so I fixed that. Not sure if that would be enough to do the amount of damage that I've been experiencing. Ideas?
Wonder if you just have a bit of a misalignment problem causing your problem.... Maybe it would help to fab up a rear support bracket for the starter?
Got a new starter (2 actually, 1 backup), new flywheel ring gear (after inspecting my flywheel I noticed missing teeth). Started to bolt on one of the starters and realized that the bolt hole on the outside of the block was completely cracked all the way through. I don't know if this is a result or the cause of my starter woes. My question is, this is the 2nd time that this has happened (the cracking of the the block). Do you all think that the bolt hole was weak and can't be welded to her as to where it will ever be strong enough to support a starter again, or can a good welder do a good enough repair job where I won't have to worry about it? P.S I do have a spare 455, should I just go ahead and machine up the spare and use it?
wormwood: I still drive one that I welded moons ago. If done correctly it will last with no issues. Keep an old bolt in it while welding it. fernando
Easily fixed by the right person. Not always cheap though. (I worked for a block and head welding co.) Be sure to figure out and solve the cause though.
Are there machine shops that do just heads and blocks? If so what are they called? Where is the one you use to work at?
Is it possible to have someone observe the starter from underneath the car while you crank the engine? Safety glasses highly recommended. Some high torque starters require a forward support also. You may have to fab your own. Good luck
The shops that specifically do iron blocks and heads are for mainly industrial applications. Most of their customers are rebuilders that ship via truck. The high volume shops generally aren't looking for a walk in customer with an automotive block. Fleet and industrial engines can cost huge $$ to replace, as well as the owners being willing to spend the $$ to get them back into service quickly, hence the need for that business. It isn't that hard to do but depending on where cracks are you need to be set up sufficiently to handle it. Mild repairs that don't require reconstruction of combustion chambers or a block's main bulkheads can be done with various "zap it at home" methods or torch welding. I suppose a non-critical spot could be milled off and a replacement could be machined and fitted for replacement...but that's a bit far fetched for most! Some cracks are actually left after finding a way to keep them from continuing. All that being said, many places can handle a crack like yours. For the cost involved, most might try to steer you away or just say they won't guarantee it. I hate to say but things are different when the goal is to avoid replacing a $5-10k block (or more). This is the main reason most places just say the part is junk. Midwest(?) in Iowa might do stuff like this. Might have to go some Googling and calling for one nearby. I hope I didn't tease you. [Just noticing where you are at. There is a fairly large place out your way]
tore the motor apart yesterday. noticed 2 things. 1) the mark on the harmonic balancer seems to be a degree or 2 off, 2) the timing chain is very loose, just flaps around (the engine only has somewhere around 10,000-20,000 miles on it so I'm not sure how this can happen) so my question is, can this be what was causing my kickback problems?
The timing marks being off is problematic from the point of not being able to accurately set the timing, but ~2 shouldn't make or break anything if everything is set reasonably. How much slack is a lot? Is this a double link chain or the standard timing chain set? When the chain is tight on one side, how much slack side to side does the other side have? I would say upwards an inch (1/2" each direction) is essentially acceptable. In any case, it shouldn't be a factor in breaking starters
Kickbacks and backfires are probably what caused your balancer to move and chain to stretch, maybe breaking starters too.
Moleary, heat does not seen to be a factor. Although it does start hard in warm conditions, it also seems to break starters on cold starts. Silver buick, I already tore the motor apart and didn't check chain slack on both sides, but the slack seemed pretty severe. The chain is a double roller bullet T.A chain (with only about 10-20,000 miles on it and not much racing. 8ad-f85, ok, but then what is causing my kickbacking? My fuel injection controlled ignition system? That's the only thing I can think of
The list could be extensive! Too many basic maintenance concerns to even venture a guess, let alone a more elusive one.
after The second starter nose I broke in 2 yrs I looked a little closer at my flex plate which was stock , and found craks up by the bolts to the crank. I use 0 gauge welding cable , I don't think u can get much more current carrying wire than that.
well, its been 2 years, after completely rebuilding another 455 (the last starter that broke actually broke the corner bolt hole off the engine block). my mini high torque starter broke. it cracked the corner ear bolt hole completely off. If I break another block im giving up on buick motors and going LS or something different. ive had it with these problems. does anyone have any ideas what can be causing this? I added fuel injection to make starting the car easier, but when the car sits for more than a few weeks, its still hard to start, and this led to yet another broken starter. I guess the exhausted starter couldn't take it. im guessing that this is an ignition problem. my idle advance is set at 8.5 degrees and total advance is set at 33, my timing is controlled with my msd atomic EFI. would a start retard system be the awnser? or is that just a bandaid? the motor is fairly high compression 10&3/4:1
my motor is a tick over 12:1. I use a standard stock starter.....no issues. thinking about going to an lt1 style starter just for the weight and clearance. my timing is set at 35 locked out. but I am using the 20 degree start regard feature in my msd 6520 box so it's only cranking at 15 and then after the box sees over 500rpm timing comes all back. alot of timing chain slop I cant see causing this but it's not right, but there are several reasons one can wear out too fast. are the bolts loose inside the starter holes??? like the knurled is wore off? it's easy to fab up a kickback bracket from the starter to the block. and will help control movement.
