Kody.... This is Mark.. I am 49 years old and my son and I have the buick we chat about. You stay with all this and once it hits you will forever keep all this info in your mind because it will all make sense. Most people just want to throw parts in the motor and expect it to fly...you understand and it will all click. There are alot of good minds here and they all will help you. I would bet that if you put in .010 for a decking and 57 or so cc's for your head chamber and take your head gasket down to .020 which is the ta steel shim along with advancing your cam the 4 dgrees you will find that you can make that motor work fairly well. Not too sure about advancing it 8 degrees as you may be in for some clearance problems..... Also remember you can do alot with ignition timing and fuel too so hang in there and you will be all smiles before you know it. Mark
I believe it should face the alt. so the line doesn't have to loop around and possibly interfere with the fan. A distributer can face just about any direction as long as the # 1 plug wire is lined up with the rotor at tdc, but most engines from the factory had the vacuum canister pointed in a direction that allowed the most room or clearance. Steve
Hey guys i wanna thank you for all of the help, especially Larry and Mark. Mark when i put in the number you told me to it brought me up to 7.43 DCR. Hopefully i will understand this all better soon. Guys, i found something that Mike Tomaszewski from TA posted in anouther thread about the c110 cam. Mike is talking to a guy running 8.5:1 compression. If this is true then why am i having all of these dcr and compression issues? Mark, Larry, im not saying either of you are wrong, im just curious why Mike would say this?
Hey Kody....he doesn't say dynamic or static does he ......nor does he say how much advance...all things to make things work... Mark
In the thread the guy says its an untouched motor with stock 8.5:1 compression. Wouldnt that make it static compression?
Yes Kody....thats what they always advertise.....hence you have to take into consideration many variables to make a motor work properly......always makes me laugh when a guy says he put in a race cam with la de da specs and hasn't dealt with anything else. They are always unhappy because it actually makes things worse because they didn't do thier homework. Mark
lots of good info and suggestions here on this thread. mark and larry and mike know there stuff. id like to know what numbers ur getting on a compression test and if u can swing it a leakdown test. i have always like tight lobe seperation angles on my cams. i too would be hesitant to advance my cam 8 degrees. most cams today are already ground 4 degrees advanced. lots of info on the net about camshaft basics. maybe u can find someone to help u degree in that cam and start from scratch. good luck to you.
So ive got a buddy with a 67 stang with a 289 who thinks hes the coolest stuff sense hes faster than a 350 with the cam in wrong. Thats drivn me crazy. I cant wait to get this thing fixed and tuned right.
It shouldn't cost too much to have the cam degreed by a mechanic with the right tools and it will give you some peace of mind.
Thats a good idea. I have a buddy whose family runs a hot rod shop. Normally i woouldnt consider taking my car anywhere, but ive seen their race cars...these people know what their doin. So i asked him about what it would cost me. If the price is right ill just take it in, but im a poor college kid so who knows.
Kody....If you are taking it apart you should really try using the steel shim gaskets. Plug in the difference between using an .040 and .020 head gasket into those formulas and see the difference. Mark
I think you have too much cam for a low compression engine. If you are convinced there is a problem do the following: 1. check for a hung valve. This will normally cause a popping or backfire. 2. check AFR 3. check cylinder cranking compression and intake manifold vacuum at idle. 4. change the plug wires, plugs and put in a stock distributer with vacuum advance timed to about 15 degrees INITIAL timing (incl vacuum). If you verify/do these things and it is still a dog off the line then it is a problem with your set up.
I can't imagine why Mike would say that, 8.5:1 will give a terrible DCR with that cam. That makes no sense to me.
Larry here is the thread i got that info from http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=14573&highlight=c110
Kody... I am serious...and I'll bet Larry will agree that if you advance that cam and put the shim gaskets in you will see a huge difference. That really is not that much camshaft as long as it's matched to your motor, I believe you will have alot of fun with it. Mark
ok, i trust you guys. will i have to run higher octane fuel to avoid any pinging if i run the thinner head gaskets?
Kody...Thats the magic of it all....you can defeat the preignition with a host of things....ignition timing ( both initial and total ) fuel mixture.....and then when you get further down the road you can even control it somewhat with the stall converter....and then when you get the gears you can put some back because your loads will change. Heck...for that matter if you get too high you can even introduce water injection... Mark
Mark your awesome. Thanks for all the help. Ill order steel head gaskets. Any clue why poston only charges $38 and ta charges $75?
i would suggest the shop method. If you have the engine apart (and out of the car, which you probably wont) you could do an easy "bypass" on the piston to deckheight clearance that will trick the calculator's into reading correctly (or close). But you would have to have the engine out. I live near clovis (sorta) but dont have any reason or plans to drive down there at the moment.
