When pistons are rated at a certain SCR, it is usually at 0 deck, so I don't think he can get that high. Hopefully he can get to 9:1
3.830 bore, 3.85 stroke, 59cc chambers, .20 shim gasket, .040 deck height, and a 20cc dish gets him to 9.0:1 Whats the dish cc on a stock 70 piston for the 350?
Thanks for the list mark. I would change out the head gaskets now, but i dont have the cash, so that will be a project for anouther time. I went to my buddys hot rod shop today. His dad said my bigger problem is my torque converter sense this cam moved my power band, he said to get an 11" converter with a 1800-2200 stall speed. he said advance the cam and put in a torque converter and it will be a different car. He didnt think my compression was to big of a deal. Ill let everyone know how it goes tonight.
Larry...last ones I checked were about 17cc......+/-...bet he is closer to 57-58cc for the heads too. kody....where do you drive ??...just in town ?....if so I would rather see maybe a 2500 stall converter because if your torque is lower than what they tested the converter on you won't get the stall they advertise..........oh no !!...here we go with the advertising again. Mark
Ok guys ive got it all apart and now im kind of stumped. I see on the bottem sprocket it has a circle, triangle, and square. The top sprocket only has a circle and one key slot. Do i just put the top one on like normal and make sure the bottem key is on the triangle? I dont see how that would change anything, all that seems to do is rotate the gear, but it still sits on the chanin isn the same position. Im pretty sure i have a ta double roller chain kit.
It will still change the advance on the cam in relation to the crank and rotating assembly. Make sure the bottom is on the triangle like you suggested.
Kody... He is right , you would almost be able to reinstall the chain without rotating anything. 4 degrees is not visually much but in relation to the whole thing it actually is alot. How much slop is in the installed chain ? Should be fairly snu or it's worn out..... Mark
Ok, that sounds good then. I just wanted to be 100% sure before i started to put it back together. Mark their is no slop in the chain, its as stiff as they come.
Hey guys i know you have been trying to figure out some of my motor specs. I know my motor is modded, but i found some origonal info from 1969. Issued: 1 March 1969 Revised: 4-17-70, 1-1-96, 2-24-96, 7-1-99 Bulletin #: BUI-69 Page 1 of 1 Specifications for the 1969 Buick engines. H.P. Disp. C.R. Ind. Make Model/Transmission Manifold R.R. Lifter Head cc Notes 155 250 8.50 1-1 Roch MV-7029047/SM 7029014/AUTO 3923418 1.75 H 69.6 4 230 350 9.00 1-2 Roch 2GC-7029141/SM 7029140/AUTO 1386845 1.55 H 51.0 2 280 350 10.25 1-4 Roch 4MV-7029245/SM 7029244/AUTO 1387069 1.55 H 51.0 3 340 400 10.25 1-4 Roch 4MV-7029243/SM 7029242/AUTO 1386003 1.59 H 59.5 3 350 400 10.25 1-4 Roch 4MV-7029243/SM 7029246/AUTO 1386003 1.59 H 59.5 3 360 430 10.25 1-4 Roch 4MV-7029243/SM 7029241/AUTO 1386003 1.59 H 59.5 1,3 Notes 1 Carb listed for automatic is for Riviera.* Wildcat & Electra w/auto uses 7029240. 2 Carb sizes - 1686/1250 3 Carb sizes - 1375x2250/1093xAV 4 Carb Sizes 1686/1313 Deck Piston Type H.P. Disp. Cl Dish/Dome Ht/Vol Valves Cam Lift Springs Notes 155 250 .011 Dished .065 7.67ccs 1725/1505 388/388 Outer Only 230 350 .010******Dished .235" 1880/1505 377/384 Outer Only 280 350 .010******Dished .075" 17.3 cc's 1880/1505 377/384 Outer Only A 340 400 .020******Dished 22.67cc's 2005/1630 419/448 Outer w Damper 350 400 .020******Dished 22.67cc's 2005/1630 407/454 Outer w Damper 360 430 .010******Dished 2005/1630 419/448 Outer w Damper******* A = If TRW L2343 or Sealed Power 2232P piston is used the legal dish spec will change from .075" to .070". Head H.P. Disp. Gasket Cast 155 250 .032 3895054,3998180,331183,331184,3927763 230 350****** .020 1382546 280 350***** .020 1382546 340 400*******.020 1231109 350 400*******.020 1231109 360 430*******.020 1231109
for your timing chain, the crankshaft sprocket should have a keyway that has a triangle marked, as well as a tooth that has a triangle marked on it. You put the crank key in the keyway that is marked with the triangle, and line the triangle on the crankshaft sprockets tooth up with the circle on the camshaft sprocket. :TU:
While usefull info, I believe this is NHRA specs for what is allowable and not allowable. For example, see where it talks about the trw piston....
Ok ive got a question. I know i have to line it up triangle to circle, but first i have to line up circle to citcle to make sure im at tdc. When i line it up circle to circle can i be 180* off? Like instead of tdc i would be at bdc?
Kody... No....you don't have that problem with the cam to crank as if you think about it the cam sproket is exactly twice as big as the crank sproket...so no matter how many turns of the crank if it's pointing up and the cam mark is pointing down.....and the appropriate circles or triangles or squares are lined up you are good to go. Think you mean though to line up triangle to triangle right .....read this http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/174.pdf Mark
you have to completely remove the crank sprocket, insert it with the key in the crank sprocket keyway marked with a triangle. Then you line the triangle on the crank sprocket tooth with the circle on the cam sprocket.
Ok, its just about all back together. All i have to do is put in the distributer, i left it out so i can use a drill oil pump to pump up the system. Everything went smooth. I only have one question, whne i advanced the cam 4* should my timing mark on my balancer have been at 4*? I might not have a chance to test it until sunday due to working all day tomorrow, but i will do my best.
The degreeing of the cam changes the opening and closing of the valves compared to the rotating assembly while the ignition timing adjusts when the spark plug is fired to ignite the combustion chamber.
I got the car running and it runs well. It has more power, but is still faily weak in the 30-60mph power. I got all of my torque back, if i punch it it will spin the tires for days. My 0-60 time is 9.10 with a super soft launch, which still sucks, but its better than 11.80 like it was. Im not 100% sure what my total timeing is because my dads dial back timing light died, so were using a regular timing light with no dial. My initial advance is set at 11*. Still runs good but their still is more to be desired. Im sure it will run better after fully retiming it though. What would give me meore performance, steel shim head gaskets or a higher stall torque converter?