.030 over only gets you .15:1 more compression. Does it say on the paperwork what the machine shop did. All we need is chamber cc's of the head, head gasket thickness, piston to deck clearance, and cc's in the piston dish. The machine shop might have written all that down as well as a calculated compression. Take a look. If you timing was all in at 2500 before, it is the same now. BTW, try backing your total down to 32*
I have a 69 Edelbrock 750, TA Intake, Headers, C110 Cam Kit, 3:42 posi, 350 Turbo, Shift kit, Mallary dist, Ram Air, 2.5 exhaust With flowmasters. I am not happy with performance out of the hole. IT IS A DOG ! I am in the process of putting in the 2500 stall speed converter, from TA. My car runs good if I manually shift it, but is still a dog out of the hole. My cam was not degreed in either. I have the 9:1 compression motor, .30 over. I will let you know how mine runs, after the converter.
According to the 2007 catalog TA says the C110 is a performer in the 1800-4800 rpm range, which is based on 455 cid. At 218/224 duration at 0.050" lift on a 350, that range is going to be shifted higher. This cam will love a stall speed between 2000 & 2400 rpm for sure, depending on gearing. Devon
Devon, I have the 2006 catalog. Did they change the cam specs? Advertised Dur. 280/284, .050 218/224, 110 LSA, .455/.465 lift. It says 1000-5200 RPM. Yes it will be different in a 350. It should still pull good though if everything is right.
Larry is right...it really depends on how your machine shop prepared your block...stock deck height ?...stock head gasket ?.......stock piston shape, are they dished ? And what is the volume of the head chamber ? All these play a very vital role in your final compression numbers. Mark
Nope, same pattern! o No: But based on my experience with small blocks running duration in this range (especially hearing the comment about the slight lope) I'd feel very comfotable running a looser-than-stock converter. TA gives a nice one-pager about centerline, degreeing, ramp profiles, carb/intake/head/exhaust and stall/gearing on page 59. Definitely a good read for anyone getting started. Devon
This is a good way to get the catalog with a slow connection: http://www.who-sells-it.com/ctp/376/1/normal/ Oops, still the 2006 version at that link...sorry. Devon
Yeah that is so true! I've calculated stock smogger motors to barely above 7:1 comp (static) even though they are advertised at a higher ratio. They are even inconsistent from one motor to another. The only way to really know is to measure, otherwise your setting up a combo with a missing variable.
Timing... What are you running for initial and total timing? If anything, try to get 20 initial if your cranking crompression is low. I would be afraid of 38 degrees total either. If it is that bad of a dog, look at the carb or timing after you advance the cam. You will have to work the distributor to limit the total advance so you can get more initial without going too far on total. Check your cranking compression while you are at it.
His DCR with less than 9:1 compression and straight up cam timing is going to be in the 6's. That is going to make it a dog big time. Yes he can go to a higher stall converter, but is that really the way to fix his problem. If the converter is too loose, he won't like it on the street, and it could cause him other headaches. Just my .02
I find it strange that TA would describe this cam as being good for 8.5-10:1 compression. The DCR is going to be low at 8.5:1o No:
I'm with you, but keep in mind all of those cam descriptions reflect a 455 installation. I haven't tried it, but shouldn't DCR be better with more displacement? Devon
It's still going to have a low DCR although the cubic inches will improve things for sure, "No Replacement for Displacement" with an 8.6:1 455, DCR is 6.8
so very true....compression by most people standards is mis understood when it comes to camshafts. there is no replacement for cyclinder pressure and loosing that cyclinder pressure w/too much camshaft; it happens almost every time. your best bet is to degree that cam 4 degrees advanced and get back what you are missing in cylinder pressure.
just seting to zero doesnt degree a cam, cam or chain could be off several degrees or you could even matched the wrong timing marks so puting a degree wheel on the crank and measureing it is the only way to verify work is right also distributer could be off a tooth and not getting enuff timing. check these variables
Keep in mind, even if the distributor is off a tooth, as long as the housing can be rotated enough the timing will come right in line as checked with a timing light. Whe you can't turn the housing enough to get the timing you want, pull the distributor and move over one tooth in the appropriate direction and try again. Devon
You beat me to it Devon, As long as you can adjust the timing by moving the distributor, and the distributor ends up with acceptable orientation (the vacuum advance does't face the fan, or you run out of adjustment), the distributor is in correctly.
Well i just talked too my dad and he says he gave all of the info to me...and i dont have it. So i may never know what my compression is, and im worried this cam will never work in my car. I had planned on tearing the car apart and putting it back together friday night-sunday and degreeing the cam, but if the cam wont run right then i dont know what im gonna do. Should i just put my poston GS110 back in there? It had good low end, but had nothing up top. I found one build sheet from the shop that did all the motor work. The handwriting on the bottem left says "pocket port". Thanks for all of the help everyone. I really appreciate it.
