While you are at it, have the NEW springs checked before you install them. Otherwise you are making an assumption everything is ok...which it may not have been the first time.
Very good call, Patton. Maybe he could have TA do it before they're shipped and have them include the spreadsheet w/numbers. Devon
Jeff they are very noisy. I went to rollers in my current build and you can hear them. If I'd known I probably wouldve bought the upgraded stock type they sell because I also have a mild cam.
I would check the Cam while I was doing this. Had the same problem, changed springs, then 3 weeks later changed cam. I quess week springs and the constant revving to the red line let the lifters pound the cam. New springs more pressure, bad wear pattern on the lifters, let the lobes wear down. M2 Tony
I just bought a new gm crate engine.Long block.Ran great until it got to about 160 or so, then started missing.Checked plugs, wires etc.Finally decided to reset valves, and 3 valves were to tight.When the motor warmed up, the clearence tightend up, and compression dropped .Maybe you are on the close edge, and when you crank it up, may be to tight.I have seen numerous valve springs do it, but even when cold, so not sure about that...Good luck...
I'd check them. My 3.8 Turbo car, was flat in the upper RPM range, replaced the springs and it is a whole new car.
**********UPDATE**************** Changing to new valve springs has made no difference. I adjusted the valves again, staying on the loose side, and it made no difference. Tom Telesco has instructed me to do a voltage drop test on all the ground wires and +/- battery cables. I'll confirm all the wires at the starter are OK. WHAT ELSE?!?!?
Yards, just throwing this out; not sure if you already mentioned it. Though you've made extensive fuel sys improvements, have you ever been able to watch fuel pressure real-time when it's acting up vs. when it's not? Devon
My AutoMeter fuel gauge has a 6' braided line attached to it (came with the gauge). When I attached it to all 3 regulators the pressure reading would move all over the map. From 8PSI down to below 5 and back under normal driving. In PARK, when I goosed it the pressure would drop from 8 to below 7, then inch back up when RPMs returned to idle. I replaced the gauge with a 1" gauge that screws right into the regulator and, while I was not able to read the gauge while driving like I could with the AutoMeter gauge, while idling it was a steady 8PSI, and revving the engine had no affect on it. I figured it was the 6' line that was causing the fluctuation in the readings. it did it with the Mallory pump as well.
I think we covered that earlier...not too many dollars for the trouble to just replace 'em. Someone will need the spares here I'm sure. Devon
you said you replaced the fuel line with -6 from tank to carb. I am wondering if that is not too small at 0.34". -8 is 0.44" closer to being 3/8" than -6. You might not be getting the volume to the carb. Why is this happening when the engine is hot. Here is my theory - When the engine is cold the fuel/air mix is denser thus allowing a "better bang" when the engine heats up that same amout of fue/air mixture is less dense and thus requires more fuel in volume which the line cannot provide. I'm stabbing at this Yards, but you tried everything else so far. 3/8" hard line is cheap and can be changed in a day. Just a thoughto No:
you might try getting it smoked. any shop could do it. I would do it when its cold then hot. it would be like 50 bucks. its the only way to thoroughly check for vacuum leaks. maybe when it warms up the intake expands some and you develop a vacuum leak. just throwing it out there.
Just an "out-of-the-box" thought from someone who probably should keep quiet. A torque convertor can fail in a way that can affect top end performance. It's not as common as convertor failures that cause bottom end problems, but it can happen.
If my zillion dollar COAN converter has gone bad in one year I'll go postal. But I kind of doubt it could be that.
