On Saturday morning we're pulling the engine for a trip to the engine dyno. This will do several things: 1) Tell us whether it is an engine issue or an issue with the vehicle 2) Give me a real dyno sheet so I know what HP/TQ my build makes 3) I was pulling the engine this winter anyway to replace the seive-like rear main seal, so I'll do that 4) I was pulling the engine this winter anyway to replace the cracked frame pieces that are welded to the cradle under the engine, so I'll get to that 5) I have a new Scott Brown custom cam if the dyno shows a cam problem - might as well just swap it now while it is on the dyno to get additional #'s stay tuned
I'll call you this weekend. If you don't feel like pulling the engine, I can weld in a bung and put my wideband in for testing tomorrow if you'd like.
Who's dyno are you putting it on? I was just wondering who would have the equipment to hook up the Buick.
It is a guy in South Jersey. Nick (Ivyland Collision) uses him and I will bolt Nick's MT headers on - they already have O2 bungs welded into them.
Before pulling the engine today we did some troubleshooting. Voltage at the battery is 14.5. Voltage at the wire in the harness triggering the MSD to turn on is 14.5. Voltage at the + terminal of the coil is 14.5. All voltage is rock steady. So I ran a power line from straight battery to trigger the MSD and it still noses over. We're pulling the engine one night this week. If the engine is solid on the dyno we'll use a different transmission when we reinstall the engine.
Yards, before you yank it out, change the oil, and put 20W50 in it. Cheap and easy enough to do, and the boys may not have been far off the mark with the valvesprings. If it "changes" (maybe not eliminates) the issue, then I want you to pull a couple of valve springs off, and then measure the tip height of the valves. I am looking for an accurate measurement from the tip of the valve, to the valve spring seat, with all shims removed. JW
Cam profile - see the current thread on extreme cam profiles. I don't think your cam is one of those, but...
When I had the heads done I specified that valve tip height was to be between 2.060 and 2.090". I am sure they are within those specs, but I'll check. The paperwork he gave me (receipt) claims that they are within that spec.
Hey Yard.I know you did alot of fuel line upgrades, but did you put a guage on it and have someone watch it when u run it through the gears?May have read over it, but just another idea >>
I wish I could offer you some advice but it looks like you've covered everything!!! Looking forward to the resolution. Sorry your going through this crap dude. You'll get it.
Ohhh, yeah I remember the trouble you had....:rant: Ohhhh, yeah I remember the trouble you had w/ that machine shop:moonu: a few years back...:rant: I offer no advice. I just hope you figure this out. I know how irritating it can be! :rant: :TU:
The shop that did the heads is the same shop that did the final (repair) build on the engine as it sits now. This was after that first shop ripped me off. I'm seriously thinking it is a cam/lifter problem or a transmission problem. Hell, I've ruled out everything else!
The gauge I had taped to the windshield appears to have been very inaccurate. Not sure why. But if it did it with the old pump and with the new pump, I can rule out fuel pressure/flow.
