Yeah, you're right. I just needed someone else to say it to prove I'm not crazy. 3 different cams in the car over a period of 1 year. That's where we are headed
You may go through a few more until you get to where you're happy with the cam choice that suits all of your needs. To be honest I was looking at putting the same cam in my Riv. I think Hugger was selling a Poston 113 cam awhile back and I was on the fence of grabbing it or not, I think I should have. I want to hear what that thing sounds like when you get that cam in there I really wish I knew what cam is in my Riv now? I don't really want to pull the engine apart until my other one is ready to go in
Well in other news, I just sold the cam and lifters out of my running car. So I guess the swap is happening.
Well there's the motivation for ya! The old "Sell the parts so you have no choice but to follow through" tactic, I like it
I am now wondering about a different issue. Apparently the GS-113A cam is large enough that it almost needs valve reliefs. Heads are cut .040 and I'm using a .020 headgasket. How close am I cutting it? Cams are from the left to the right. GS-113A, TA 413, Scott Brown 219/238, and stock Melling grind Looking at the exhaust closing numbers for the 113 and the 219, it appears they are the same, with very similar ramp rates, so I may have gotten away with murder on the exhaust. On the intake, it appears the same is happening with the 219 cam reaching the @ .050 lift faster than the 113 cam. I may have just gotten away with murder, we will have to see.
So what do I gain from this? It appears to be an intake leak, and I can probably run straight 93 octane??? For reference, this was cold with the stock cam nearly two years ago. Cylinder 1 pushrod was totally bent and not sure how cylinder 8 achieved 180 psi EDIT: it’s also very cold out, like 25*, which is slowing the engine cranking down compared to normal. This apparently, and logically, has an effect on how much cranking compression is achieved. I’m just glad to see a very small variance. Another thing, replace the vacuum hose that is certainly cracked connecting to one of the ports on the intake. 87, 362 miles as of 12/17/19 87 miles between part swaps
Gotta make steps or I’m gonna screw something up: ✅-remove balancer ✅-remove front cover ✅-remove valvetrain ✅-remove pushrods and tag lifters ✅-remove starter (this parts sucks to reinstall) ✅-disconnect all wiring and oil lines to alt and a/c ✅-disconnect shorty headers (dammit) ✅-put the a/compressor somewhere ✅-remove power steering pump ✅-disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate and inspection cover ✅-disconnect trans from engine ✅-support the trans with jacks ✅-build engine hoist ✅-remove engine mount bolts ✅-build engine stand ✅-lift engine into the air ✅-remove camshaft ✅-inspect cam bearings ✅-insert new cam ✅-put engine back down ✅-reinstall engine mounting bolts ✅-reinstall trans to engine bolts ✅-connect flex plate to torque converter ✅-install timing gears ✅-drain and fill oil ✅-install new valvetrain and pump out the used lifters one by one ✅-reinstall all wiring and oil lines ✅-reinstall ac compressor ✅-reinstall starter ✅-reinstall shorty headers ✅-find nut for driver side shorty header and alternate the others with loctite ✅-adjust all pushrods ✅-REDO the connection between the torque converter and flywheel ✅-valve covers ✅-power steering pump ✅-install all bracketry ✅-drop in radiator and install support bracket ✅-fan and shroud ✅-run all hoses and the tranny cooler ✅-install intake splash pan ✅-install the shaved intake ✅-run all hoses, wiring, carb and more ✅-install front cover ✅-harmonic balancer ✅-fuel pump ✅-prime engine -verify all parts of engine are back in place ✅-install distributor (new distributor gear?) ✅-set timing non-running to the best of your ability ✅-once again verify all hoses are correct ✅-fill with coolant ✅-check oil for milk ✅-verify all belts ✅-all the chassis grounds to the block, yes you forgot ✅-REVIEW AND DO ALL TORQUE SPECS FROM ONLINE ✅-final pre check before startup ✅-final gut check before startup ✅-fire and break in at 1500-2000 to get the used cam and lifters reacquainted ✅-check for milk again ✅-tune the combo in the garage, waiting for the spring -install transgo kit -install procomp rev limiter -do literally all the other stuff on the list Wait for Spring
John. If your just swapping the cam, would it be easier and faster to just pull radiator and do it in the car? OR you going to repaint the frame, wheel wells and engine. You have the intake off. Pull the valve covers and engine front and you will be done in 1 to 2 days. That Riv has alot of room up front, correct?
The Riv has a surprisingly small amount of room up front, the hood latch and ac condenser are directly in the way AND boom i frickin found it, concrete evidence I should be fine to run this cam http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/realistic-455-build-up.169677/
Can I ask something stupid here, when you had this together what intake gasket did you use.........the sti style valley pan ofvthe thicker composite gaskets
When you get the distributor out of the way set your intake on the heads with no gasket and look at the alignment. If correct the should almost be laying flat against each other with no gaps........I wondering if when you do if you will see a smaller gap in the lower corner down where the intake, heads, and block all come together, if so the intake should be cut to match then use the thicker composite gaskets with some kind of splash pan
I see the stock style valley pan, and ended up widening the intake bolt holes to fit the engine. How much will cutting the intake cost? And how much do I cut it with .040 off the heads and a .020 headgasket?
Well let's lay your intake on with no gaskets and see it you have a line up problem to begin with. When you said widing the bolt holes.....like larger diameter for the bolt to to go through or slotting to allow the bolts to line up. If slotting then there is almost guaranteed an alignment issue. Between heads and intake.
With stk valley pan it can, especially with the factory rubber end seals............slot of times as the intake drops down those get cut and it's another sign
