Yes there is given the 67 and 69 floor pans should be identical. It should mount right on the flat vertical part of the pan that is behind the upper back seat. It will be above and forward of the rear axle. That's where mine is.
Probably not that bad when new but rust, etc gets imbedded causing restriction. Running a larger inline filter is better.
Yep. Unless you want to do bolts through the pan from inside and nuts under the car. Then you'll have to pull the back seat and have someone in the car with a wrench or socket and someone under the car with the same to tighten up the nuts/bolts. If you go that route used loctite on the threads, lock washers and lock nuts. That way they won't back off over time from vibration of the car.
Also john do your research on the Holley pumps as there's three types for different power/HP levels and find which one suits your needs. There's Holley red, blue and black. If I'm not mistaken Red is street cruiser average HP, blue is street/strip moderate HP and black is full race big HP
Thank you, Larry recommended the Holley Red as a pusher for my stage 1 pump, but I’m finding the cost to do it right would be very similar to just getting a stout and proven mechanical pump. The RobbMC
If you do any kind of electric pump a street drive set it up as a return typevsytem, your pump will rub to s cooler and last longer
If you look close you can see the RobbMc pump. 1/2" rubber line going into the stock location on the cross member then exiting behind the RF tire where it connects to the 1/2 copper line which runs in the stock location to the rear of the car. There is a 1/2 steel filter just before the rear wheel well. Goes back to 1/2" copper following the stock routing into the top of the sending unit where there is a short piece of rubber fuel line.
X2 Use this pump with your current mechanical pump up front and stock 3/8" fuel lines and you'll have no problem. I ran this same setup in my '78 Regal with 455 and Nitrous right into the 11's with no problem. Fairly quiet compared to the Holley's. Nothing wrong with upgrading the system but don't expect any noteworthy improvements. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4594 Way too much overthinking fuel systems on this site. In your current situation I seriously doubt fuel delivery is your problem. With 2.0 60' times you sure aren't taxing your fuel system nor are your ET/MPH's. Doesn't matter how much HP you think you are making. If factory cars of any make could not get well into the 13's if not 12's with a factory fuel pump and fuel lines you can be dam sure the designers would have beefed up the system. The only way it won't work is if there is some defect in the system, kinked line, clogged sock/filter. If you were running low on fuel your car would let you know in a non-subtle way. If it was really dying not long into the run or at the top end I would say something is up. A Q-Jet needs a good supply of gas to keep moving but if it is moving you probably aren't running low enough on fuel to make much of a difference. One problem with putting the larger cam in is your more than likely going to have a slightly slower 60' especially in a heavier car. I forget, did you degree the cam in and make sure it is advanced to +4*? The better heads should make more power across the board except way down low which right now makes up a big part of your 60'. Your 60's will get more consistent with practice. You say you are manually turning the SP off once you get going. The best thing to do in my many-many years of experience with a SP is to shut it off at about the 60' mark. I made a timer to do that with mine. Forget about shutting it off much later or leaving it on until the next gear. Just get into a routine and do it the same. More importantly is the SP actually going to high stall? Just checking, but can you power brake the car to at least 2000 rpm at the line with the brakes locked up? If you turn the SP off while doing that the rpm will drag down and the car will more than likely overpower the brakes. So does your SP really work at this time? No need to power brake at the track on the starting line more than 15-1800. You need to play with that but stay consistent once you figure it out. What are you shifting at? That cam needs around 5500 rpm at least and keep it consistent 1/2/3. Higher RPM if it tests out at the track to run quicker. IMO with your gearing and big heavy car you need to wring as much out of it as possible in 1st and 2nd. Once you go into 3rd your acceleration is all but over so the longer you keep it in 1st and 2nd the better. Too much to look back in the thread for: Is that a 4-hole spacer under the carb? Did you jet up the Q-Jet with the Edelbrock? What rear gears? What size Drag Radials? What was the DA on your best run last year and this year? Go to Drag Times and use the calculator to figure out what the ET/MPH would have been at sea level to really compare them. All in all you're in the 13's on a lousy day so it is not all bad. Keep an eye out for a nice cool track day.
I always appreciate your advice Mike, so I’ll try to answer everything. You always bring facts to the table. When I pulled the tank sock, it had a buildup of fibers stuck to the outside of the sock and was stuck to the pickup tube. There was an imprint on the sock where the pickup had been “glued” to and sucking through where the fibers had begun to pile up and restrict. The high stall of the converter is very much working. Im shifting at 5350 for 1-2 and about 5300 for 2-3. Definitely a little bit low, but this is a stock shortblock 430, which makes excellent oil pressure. It’s a 4 hole spacer that I modified, it’s a two hole for the primaries and one open space for the secondaries. My jets are currently 76 drivers side/74 passenger side .041 primary rods, F secondary hanger, and DA rods. 3.42 rear posi and 275/60/15 MT ET Streets. DA on best run last year: 1800 ft 14.024 @ 98.49 60 foot: 2.117 DA on best run this year: 2126 ft 13.865 @ 98.88 60 foot: 2.127
New list: ✅1. Drop rev limiter to 5800 or so ✅2. RobbMC fuel pump? ✅3. Maintenance 4. Figure out how to stop wheel hop ✅5. Fix battery hold down ✅6. Reset and verify carb float level 7. Alignment 8. Fix the exhaust for the 373466th time. Not happy, TA. ✅9. Check all fluids and top off
Sp1 if you put electric pump and roller rockers, and TA stg2 TE heads, and shorty headers and 3 in exhsust. Throw in a spark box and msd dist, a little more cam, all the oil mods 5/8 oil pickup , weld a baffle in tbe oil pan , a crank scraper wouldnt hurt.Put some TA cam bearings and some sportsman rods , hell just get JW zero deck option and find a 455 block for all of this.
