Agreed. It makes me not want to take the car to the track again until I figure out where the missing 50 horsepower went.
Make a list of everything you have done since you "lost 50 ponies". Post the list and start working on elimination. Any time you make more than one change and test, you create several variables that can make isolating trouble a tail-chasing game. But, you have always figured out the cause of problems and moved forward, so keep doing what you do.
I’ll start by posting every timeslip: Pass 1: DA of 2345’ Pass 2: DA of 2318’ Shut ball valve in fuel return line Pass 3: DA of 2228’ Removed air cleaner, bumper timing a degree to 33* (maybe my balancer has slipped) Pass 4: DA of 2194’ Drop drag radials pressure from 28 psi to 20 psi Pass 5: DA of 2160’ Dropped pressure to 18 psi Pass 6: DA of 2126’ Replaced AX secondary rods with DA rods
Ported Stage 1 heads, a B4B, a GS-113A, and a partridge in a pear tree. I'm running the same MPH as I was before. Top end MY ASS When I switched from the stock cam to a 218/238 duration Scott Brown grind, I picked up on average 5 mph. This picked up nothing.
Those slips are all over the place.......your making too many changes, there isn't any consistency when you get 60fts close to same it's off down track. You need to work on getting things more consistent, cool everything down the same to the same level are it up the same Here is a sampling of my tickets from sept 2019. The last pass the weather got away from me and it picked up. I got the last 2 tickets out of order
I entirely agree no consistency cause I was trying to both find horsepower and find either traction or the reason why I was clocking slower 60 foots with drag radials than street tires. I was trying a little bit of everything
Take a look at the 1st 2 slips.....your first pass was ahead even at the 1000ft by .05. Which down from the .07 you were up at the 660........but you have the same et al ost but 8 mph difference.......that doesnt add up......you cant run the same ets with 8 mph difference with the 660 mph being close........did you lift early.........
On pass 4- . You lost a tenth between the 330 and 660......that's not spinning way out there.........the other times in that pass were b4 that point were close. A tenth between 330 isn't caused by metering rod, a little bit of timing or air cleaner or tire psi.........that's a different shift point or something else going on. It cant be close till the 330 then fall that far off in the next 330. Can you post a good slip b4 changes The incremental will tell you alot, you just need to remember what is going on during that part of the track. Are you manually shifting this by tach
2100-2300 day isn't great air. But the air was pretty consistent On my car 100 ft of DA only make a couple thousandths. My car does have a slight dependency on track prep and if I get a better hook as seen on that last slip if really picks up.....so the cooler it get the better I hook.....hoping to figure that out very soon.
I let the car shift itself every single pass, and I was experimenting with the switch pitch, going from high to low stall by the 60 foot, the top of first gear, or somewhere in the middle. I also was attempting burnouts of varying lengths.
Yeah.....one winter I made 11 changes to my X and went slower....had to undo a few to go quicker....after that I was more cautious as to how one can affect another......one of main things is if something like a cam makes you use more fuel you can go slower if fuel system can't keep up....once I had put new fuel line in and when it got hot soak it would collapse and car went slower....without even laying over....just slower
Yeah, I guess I just need to dial it in. Or figure out my launch. Talk to you all later at around 3, no connection at work.
So you go 2 tenths quicker and think you lost 50hp,?? Again too many variables. Shift it yourself so you know it shifts the same place each time.....you should try 1 thing, make several passes and see if it repeats and carries over to see what really happens In just those few passes you changed timing, fuel, tire pressures and the converter stall.....if you dont make a few passes in each how do ever expect to know what each really does? Are you manually switching the stall.....if so there is no way you will do that at the same point each time....... If you want consistent times you need to get rid of all these variables. Can you put the converter switching on a timer on that so it starts at wide open throttle and then switches the stall at the same time......then you can adjust the timer to where that works best for you??? We all want the best et, but consistency wins races......and then you will be able to work through things 1 at a time to get things maxed out......... It's slow but it's the only good way to know what is or isn't working or helping... and you will find yourself thinking it's set then make a change, then have to redo something you already though was tweaked and now fund more than b4 In the end it will all add up......if you work and get your best 60 from that day out strung together with the best run now you looking low 13.80s or upper 70s
I suppose I'm impatient and thought that by throwing tires and power at it that it would benefit, and yes I'm manually switching the stall. Going to go into the garage and view the car with a fine toothed comb to see if everything is working as it should.
