That combo should make 600hp I'd say IF the carb is up to it. With a bigger cam id say easy 600+:Brow:
Just wanted to thank everyone that replied to this thread. Should have it up and running in a few weeks.
Got the car running and tuned. Went through the breakin procedure for the cam and liffters now just trying to get a couple hundred miles on it. Changed the oil and filter to get the asymbly lube out. Will take the car to the dyno in the bigining of April and get new tires. Tony's Corvets in Gaithersburg MD. is going to do the dyno and final tune. Car sounds great!
I know a great way to get a few miles on her, bring her to my house and let me check her out. Its been too long since I've heard the sweet sound of a BBB in my driveway. Round trip should be 60 miles or so I figure. Perfect short road trip.:Brow:
I dont trust it yet enough to take it to far away. I have been staying within a 15 mile radius from the house just in case I need to come and get the trailer. Although the only thing I have found is that the left side header leaks a little on the back cylinder. Everything else is good no oil leaks or fuel problems. Havent got past 1/4 throtle yet but it is very responsive. My timing advance right now is at 18deg. to start and 32 total. starts to come in at 1100rpm. and fully in at 2400rpm. Runs great so far.
Well when you feel comfortable, I wanna check it out. Keep me posted. I know the better half would like to go to the outlets up there so I could come your way almost any weekend.
Just wanted to say that this combo runs very strong!! More than I expected and drives very nice on the street with no power brake isues. Pulles nice from 2,500 RPM. Through 6,000 RPM. Anything under 40 mph. It will break the tires loose with no problem.
Thats my next thing to do. Going 1 step colder in plugs and a final rejet on the carb and it will be ready. My compression ended up at 12.24-1. Only going to do it once but they probably wont let me run again after the first one anyway. Borowing a set of slicks from a fiend this week. It just blows the tires off any time in first or second. Third is ok above 40-45 mph but starts to walk around when the motor gets up to 4,800 any imperfection in the road and it lets go. Also going to have it put on a dyno at the end of the month and check it all out.
Cool. Just please put some CAM2 in it for the track. Seen too many people say they have a pump gas motor and then hurt it. Race gas is cheap protection. I used to run 2 tanks when I drove to the track.
I was going to add some Sunoco GT 100 (5gal.) to 10gal. for that day. It does not ping at all on the street and runs cool at 170 deg.
Can't really go by sound of knocking at full throttle. Unless you have the timing at 28-30 deg, you'll need more than a splash of 100 with 12+-1 comp. I would go all 100 or 50-50 110 and 93. What's another 50 bucks when you have so much invested? Personally I would arrive at the track with as little gas as possible and dump in 5 gallons of 110. Just trying to help.:TU:
X2 You will not hear it detonate at full throttle, and it will hurt the motor for sure. I ran 10 gallons of 112 at Cecil County last September while testing my new roller 470. I had no idea I was running with low fuel pressure. I was leaning the engine out, but not enough to nose over. That 112 saved me I think. You cannot compare anything you do on the street to running on the track, wide open, maximum load through all 3 gears for 12 seconds. I'm with Bruce, get there with as little gas as possible and dump in some 110. I had 5 gallons of 93, and mixed in 10 gallons of 112. That's admittedly, a little overkill, but I had just spent $10,000 on my motor. I think running any engine at the track without some race gas is foolish.
I always mixed some 114 octane racegas with 98 octane gas with my old 464 11.5-1 iron head engine, it needed it for sure. With my alu head 10.7 engine I have had no problems racing it with only the 98 octane gas. We took of the heads last year, to do a valve job, and the Diamond pistons looked like they were brand new. But if your higher in compression, you will be needing higher octane for sure. We tested out different Carb makers, Holley, AED, Proform aquired from fellow racers (all race carbs) and the Proform one out flowed them all. The Proform needed 10 jet sizes smaller then the Holley or AED carbs. One friend tested the Proform with his jetsizes he used in his Holley carb, and it would barely run due to much fuel/air flow. He uses the Proform now for his E85 setup. On my engine I use a 950CFM Proform carb, and on the Dyno the 1150 dominator made a few/very few HP more, but it needed much more fuel to do it. So overall the Dominator wasn't very effecient.
Thanks for all the input. I have done like you said! Put 15,000 in the motor. There is a Sunoco that sells the race gas Less then a mile from the house so it is easy to get in 5gall cans. 10 gal. of GT100 is $106.00 not to much for insurance for a day at the track.The timing is 18Deg. initial and 32 total runs well. I have seen valve and piston damage done to motors with pre detination. Not nice to find.
Those are the new heads! I can't believe you guys didn't notice that. Cool! Can you post a flow sheet with all the lifts? Chris
You can buy leaded 110 CAM2 at Tuckers in Damascus for $7.95 a gallon. More octane, better price. Remember that octane number is RESEARCH octane. 100 is more like 96 and 110 more like 105 if comparing to 93 pump gas which is R+M/2. Also, mixing 93 with leaded 110 50-50 ends up with plenty of octane for less than 6 bucks a gallon.
