1966 Riviera GS Crank No start. Suggestions needed.

Look at the video at 1.53 . When you move the distributor it doesn't appear to actually be seated . Your battery has NO reserve . Choke wide open . Just obvious observations .

 

I don't think any of those things would prevent ignition. The battery his being jumped and the starter is fighting against the crank. I took the fork off to be able to turn the distributor. If the crank doesn't spin fast enough the rotor won't spin fast enough to give out continuous spark.

 

Looked like the entire dist moved to the side. Sumptin deff not right there

 

I released the pins on the cap I was checking the rotation of the rotor. I held it down with my hand. That would not stop it from starting. Cam still turns the the gear on the distro, rotor on distro turns. It's pinned down in every other video, this actually had better results with the spitting from the carb when I turn the distributor to find the correct timing.

 

Any of those would prevent it from starting . Jumping a BAD battery with a GOOD battery still yields a BAD battery . Weather a crank spins fast or slow it still should have continuous spark . Set static timing as explained in many previous postings from people that know . Haphazzardly turning the distributor while cranking is not getting anywhere . After engine starts THEN you can turn to find the correct timing with a light .Also starting fluid actually washes oil from the cylinder walls increasing friction .

 

So yo think the 2 hours plus I worked on the car, the cap never was still enough to complete a firing rotation. That's close to impossible. You are taking elements of combustion for granted. You think the early engines didn't require a fast hand crank to start the car? Pull a lawn mower draw string slow and see what happens. I have been using gas for 2 months and it didn't start, so I tried something new. The turn is happening before the crank. This is not a novice issue, please stop giving advice like I'm a damsel in distress. I know how a distributor works. The point of the videos to eliminate basic starting issues. The loose cap would prevent some of those start attempts if it was going to start. But on most of the attempts the cap was stable.

 

At the 2:40 mark it sounds like its spinning fast enough to start. I'm going to say the rotor is 180 out. You don't need to remove the fork, just loosen it enough so the dizzy turns. That keeps it from pulling out of the oil pump. Its spitting with the spray, try it with the rotor turned 180 in relation to its current position.

 

I agree with the turning fast enough comment. My GS400 might crank slow if it's been sitting a bit, but it fires if the distributer is righteously setup (this is not a guessing game) and there is spark.

Looking forward to seeing it fire up! Way to hang in there.

 

Your welcome to do as you please . But as someone that knows what they are talking about , and has worked on Buick's at the dealer in the late 60's and early 70's I only point out what you video . You tore the upper part of the engine apart and rebuilt it without finding what the cause was . You don't seem to want to take advice from people that know . So Goodbye and Good Luck .

 

You arent giving advice. Im telling you that it has been cranked with the pins down. You are offering a comment as if a month of trial and error could possibly be solved by a loose distro cap. You gotta know better than that.

 

Ok. I may have to pull the intake and Valley cover again, and make the oil pump pin line up the the blade under the distro. I does turn a little when the blade has to fit into the pin. It is worth a try.

 

My next purchase will be a compression test kit.

 

You are totally Incorrect . Many people , Me included have offered ADVICE but it seems you don't like what you are hearing from them . And by the way the compression test was offered as advice many posts ago from a very Knowledgeable person . Hope it works out for you .

 

Try 3 sets of el cheapo jumper cables to help supply the amperage nec. to crank the engine that has a bad battery to start with. GET A NEW FULLY CHARGED BATTERY. The timing is way off distingquised by the popping out of the carb. Firing order off??? Starter dragging on it's feild coils???
Pull #1 plug. Stick your finger in the hole & bump the starter until you feel compression. Look at the timing mark on the balancer. Stick a screwdriver in the hole & turn the engine by hand until the screwdriver is at it's highest. That should be TDC & the timing marck on the damper & the cover should line up close to zero. Pull the cap & see where the rotor is pointing. Should line up with number 1 on the cap. You have the correct firing order??? It's stated on the valve cover.
1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3 & the rotor turns clockwise. Number 1 is on the right, passenger side.

Tom T.

 

And I replied I didnt have the tool. I dont like what Im hearing? What am I not liking. On post #155 your conclusion is that I'm not listening? Again you are not offering advice. Thank you for the update on your resume, I appreciate your keen eye.

Things I have tried from this thread:

New Starter
New Battery Cables
ATF in Cylinders
Pulled off Valve covers
New Battery
Jumped Battery
Changed Spark plugs Again (Replies said the ones I had may be fouled)
Bought spark Testers to confirm spark
Had Heads rebuilt due to reply noticing that one of the valves wasnt opening.
Tried Starter fluid
Replaced head and intake gaskets
But I dont like what I hear (All Hail the Gold Level Member)

 

No need to get Sarcastic youngster . Goodbye and Good Luck . You figure it out .

 

Yes. The firing order is correct. I will see what Jumper cables Harbor Freight has to offer.

 

That's also an option. Appreciate the updates.

 

I'd get a points distributor
This is what my 401 sounded like with my fancy dizzy. about 3 tries and I bailed on that and went points.
Just eliminating variables.
I'm working on another "no start" 401 and going through the systems again. Fuel, Spark...etc.
Good luck