Discussion in 'Classic Buicks' started by ArnoldsMind, Aug 24, 2020.
Ok. I may be able to do that
That's not a job I'm up for. It's beyond my ability to fix if that is thats issue. That's why I didn't do it originally.
With all due respect to you Arnold what he's asking for you to try is actually easier than pulling the heads. I mean you pulled the heads you obviously know how to work a wrench. Unbolting the convertor and spinning it should be a cake walk unless I'm misunderstanding what he's asking you to try?
No , I believe you understand me completely . 3 bolts removed . Total time 15 minutes . Just involves jacking up car and laying underneath it .
Are the ground cables from both rear head bolts attached to the firewall??? I can see the ground cable on the left rear of cylinder head bolt seems to be attached to the rear bolt, BUT is it attached & secure to the firewall??? I can't see the right rear. Is that attached to the rear head bolt & the firewall??? Where is the ground cable attached from the battery??? Should be securely attached to the block somewhere usually attached to the rear of the P/S pump pivot bolt with a flat washer/external/internal toothed washer. Could be the cause of a slow crank condition.
I still believe you have a timing issue as evidenced by the blow back through the carb. initially.
Even IF ALL the cylinders had 60lbs. of compression the engine should still start. Maybe not smoothly & even be rough, BUT it should still start.
Even if the valves are not opening all the way could be because of a collasped lifter/lifters & once started will clack loudly & slowly quiet down once starting to run/warm up.
No argument, beyond mine too. But, much easier to source a rebuilt TH400/ST400 than having to find another 425 nailhead. This could better inform your decision whether to keep the car or cut your losses. If the transmission is messed up, much different scenario from the one where it's the motor. Worth a shot anyway...
+1 on checking / beefing up grounds.
Yup, nicely said.
Like others said, you have showed wrenching ability. You learn as you go and again its not all the hard. Members will walk you through it if you have any issue's. I think like gsx455 mentioned it a good test to see if a issue.
Ill get under there and see if I can make sense of what he is suggesting. In my head I was seeing a Flex plate job where you rotate the plate and remove the bolts while they are in the exposed space.
I re-installed the Ground straps to the heads when I put them back on. I'll check the connection at the firewall while I'm looking at the flex plate.
I'll give it a try.
Ok. My fear was not being able to re-install once I take it off. From the comments the visual I have in my head is way off.
You are not , " Taking it off " . You are removing 3 bolts that attach the converter to the flex plate and moving it towards the transmission about 1/2 to 1 inch .
Not sure how important this really is but according to the shop manual you should "mark the flywheel and converter pump for reassembly in the same position." (I'm thinking wipe off any grease and then a quick shot with gray or white primer, kind of like when removing / reinstalling a driveshaft).
Definitely would mark the flywheel and converter with a grease pencil, that way it lines up right and is in reasonable balance again.
I've been using a silver sharpie.
Are you giving up?
I am. Purchased a new house, and I dont want to bring these bad vibes with me.
Can't say I blame you. Good luck on the new house!