That isn't optimal. You will get much better performance if it works as designed. I guess the original throttle switches are missing?
Stock throttle switches are missing, but I'm enjoying manually switching it. It could be better, Bruce Roe knows that, but I don't mind it how it is now.
I would not use a toggle switch, I would use a momentary button switch, like for a line lock. mount it on the floor shifter if you have one. That way, you can hold the button down, and then release it. You should not be using hi stall at light throttle everyday driving. You should only be using it at idle, and when you are on it heavy. At the track, hold the button down through the launch, and let it go about 1/2 way through 1st gear. Bruce Roes electronic box is the way to go. Just ask him to modify it like he did for me. Then the converter will work just like it was designed to for 1967.
Oh dang, the momentary switch idea has me questioning everything Larry. I might try that and see how it works.
Not mine Bill, just a picture I have had for years. My guess is it left the scene way back when and was replaced.
Much easier to operate as you can push and let it go. You can also hook it up to the switched wire of the brake pedal switch, that way, anytime your foot is on the brake, the converter goes to high stall (motor idles easier). Another idea is to use a vacuum operated electrical switch to turn hi stall on when vacuum drops as it would when you are heavy on the gas. Bruce's box does all of that, which is why I recommend you look into it.
Besides painfully obvious answers, where exactly should I look for the brake wire to wire the switch to? Near the pedal?
There is a switch that contacts the pedal arm. It has 2 wires to it. One is constant 12 volts, the other gets voltage when you step on the pedal. You wire to the wire that only has voltage when the brake is applied. You can figure that out with a meter or test light. The switch looks like this, https://www.rockauto.com/info/154/SLS-66photo primary__ra_p.jpg
Sounds like you're tuning blind(?), if you don't already have one you should get an O2 gauge to see where your air/fuel ratios are actually at instead of guessing. Makes tuning stupid easy knowing where the A/F ratios are! As for nitrous, did you open up the top ring gap before you re-assembled it? If not you probably don't want to spray more than a 75 shot with a good tune. And again, with the N02 the A/F gauge would help to tune it and tell you if it went lean when you were using the giggle juice. If you have a hard time watching the gauge while driving after you hit the button, and you will, maybe video record what the gauge is doing while your driving to be able to look at it afterwards in the pits. Fun stuff!
I have two, and I'll be waiting for the TA kit for my birthday. Family is happy to support that for my 20th.
I have not been able to get a 1-2 shift while keeping the tires firmly planted. For that reason I'm pretty sure it's shifting right at 5000. Does it make sense to fix the gov to shift at 5500 for the 1-2 and 2-3?