Two questions: 1. Does a 67 Riviera have a Low Oil Pressure light? 2. What pressure does it flick on at?
Thanks Larry, as usual List of things that need to be done: ✅1. AX secondary rods 2. Change oil after giving the engine a seafoam ✅2A. Install mechanical oil pressure gauge to check idle pressure and everything ✅3. adjust redline tab on tach to 5500 4. go with thinner gasket on oil pump to jack the idle pressure up a bit more, while also remeasuring clearances and looking for wear after the first 100 miles back on the road 5. Air up the tires, cause they are low and it shows 6. Screw with the timing a bit more, and then all mixtures once again, its just not right, and I'm a perfectionist. It's at 14 initial now and 34 total, but I want try to get about 18 initial and 32 total by 2500. ✅7. Give the vacuum advance can one turn clockwise, since engine is making less (15, not 20") vacuum and will need more vacuum advance Progress is good. I'll be able to work on it again in two weeks
Cylinders 5 & 7 are running mates, be sure to keep those wires separated or they can cross-fire. My 67 has an oil gauge, no light. I have the usual complement across: oil, temp, current, clock (which spins crazily on occasion, good for a laugh...).
I'd swap things around a bit. 2A first to see what your HOT idle oil pressure is right now. 4. Hopefully you have the TA OP shim kit so you can correctly set the clearance. The gasket that comes with the thrust/rebuild kit(s) rarely hit on the mark as far as clearance goes. Always too much. That is where lots of people go wrong with those rebuild kits. One gasket in kit and they think it is ready to go as-is. 2. Change oil/Seafoam If your oil light is coming on at idle turn the idle speed up to 800 rpm in gear/high stall. What oil are you running? IMO throw away the idea of running 10-30 on a high mileage original bearing engine especially for performance use. 10-40 or even 20-50 if it still isn't great after the oil pump is shimmed to the correct clearance. I may have missed it but you should install a good shift kit in the transmission. I'd add to the list modifying the governor to upshift a bit higher. Whatever it is stock is too low. It will probably take a bunch of trys so to start just take some off the inner weights and see what it does. If yours is real low I'd go right to D or C. Neither will sent to rpm too high on a stock unit. Cheap and fairly easy. Or get the B&M governor kit and work your way up. You want to get the 1-2 shift close to 54-5500 automatic but anything you do will be better than stock. https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1352002&page=2
I’m installing the gauge right now, and running 10w-30. It’s proven fine so far, but maybe I’ll kick up the oil thickness next time. I also have the shim kit, so I can totally adjust it I have never seen the oil light, so that’s a good thing on its own. I do want to put a good shift kit in, wake up the car a bit. All in due time and $ guys
Good news on the oil light. You were making me nervous with the earlier questions. Go for the minimum recommended clearance with the shim kit and if you can pull 60 psi at 5000 rpm you'll be ok.
What's it showing on the gauge? On my Riv I never see below half at idle and pinned at cruising. 10-30/20-50 mix.
You dont need no fancy tools. I've done it wit a pair of pliers, wire strippers, small screw driver and patience.
I recently had my 69 430 motor rebuilt and a huge concern was a quality replacement timing cover due to oil pump wear in the cover
I started running 0W-40 oil in my '95 Roadmaster Wagon for extreme duty towing last year. It is used in lots of European cars. I must have the worst luck in oil pressure because after I finally put an oil pressure and oil temperature gauges on it even that LT1(SBC) had mediocre oil pressure. So I figured the heavier oil can't hurt and the "0" helps with cold starting even compared to the recommended 5W-30. Best of both worlds as far as I'm concerned.
John, Does you oil light come on with the key in "run" with engine off? (just so I am clear) And as Briz sez: Measure the wire where you want to cut it, use a razor blade, lay the plug wire on a flat surface, with the boot pushed way back, left to right in front of you, and "roll" the wire forward and back using the blade and gently cut through the outer jacket and just barely into the inner layer of insulation but try not to hit the "core", then pull the jacket and insulation off, leaving about 1 inch of core, wrap that back, slip the terminal end on so that the back of the terminal will hold the core between it and the wire to secure it an make a good conductor, then work your way around the circumference to "swedge" and then slip the boot back in place. (using the "football" part of the pliers). Look at the end of the crimp to get an idea what your going for. I typically will do the "cap side" of the wire as it is easier to slide the boots, or if the plug side is 90 degree. You can buy the terminals at some autoparts stores or online. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...g-wire---boots---terminals-17887/2b2326313100 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c4/spark-plug-wire-boots-terminals/10802 https://www.autozone.com/ignition/performance-wireset-boots-terminals https://www.napaonline.com/en/searc...&Ntt=Spark+plug+wire+terminals&isProduct=true
Either copper tubing, or braided line. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...2145990985062&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba1071ad2153 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...2145990985820&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba1071ad2153
