So what casting # /year of 455 blocks will have correct pilot bearing hole in crank? Or just focus on early 455 blocks 70-72 that have machined hole for Z bar stud drilled and tapped already at back drivers side rear of block as good indicator for good block and crank.Those early blocks should have correct diameter hole in crank to accomodate pilot bearing for Muncie input shaft? Thoughts/Input?
my 73 block was drilled and tapped for the Z bar stud but the crank was not drilled for the pilot bushing.
Its doesnt appear to be the crank, it appears the O.D. of the bushing, especially if it is effecting other makes as well.
You folks actually believe GM would have invested in machining separate cranks for AT vs. MT cars? I highly doubt that. I recently installed a TA Perf pilot bushing in the rear of my '71 Riv's 455. I did put it in the freezer overnight to shrink it. A thin film of lube and it tapped in hard using a length of hardwood (shovel handle) and mallet. No problems. The BW ST10 input shaft pilot also fit the bushing like a glove.
I have encountered several auto trans cranks on 300's and 455's that were not machined to accept the pilot bushing. I have successfully turned down the bronze bushing to a light press fit in the auto crank hole with no performance issues. From an engineering perspective, it makes no sense that the auto trans crank hole is not centered. It is a drilled hole that was most likely drilled on a lathe. It's centered, but it's the wrong size and may have a stepped ID.
My 1971 Stage 1 is drilled/tapped and the crank had the correct size hole (centered too!). Think I got the bushing from Y1 or GM (it was a GM bag), lubed it up and drove it into the crank. Never had any vibration, shift problems so far. Jim
the crank of the '73 riviera motor ( originaly auto ) i have in my stepside truck was cut but not completley to the bottom of the hole , only about an inch or so . being i used an adapter plate to mate up to the chevy bell and trans i used a extended length chevy racing bronze bushing http://www.jrmotorsports.com/product.cfm/productID/5159.cfm . a couple soft taps witha hammer usin a thin block of wood , it went in without any issues o No:
After picking thru my junk in the garage, I found the '70 crank I have has the bushing still in it so I didn't remove it. It was out of a big car w/auto. But I remember that years ago I did not have any issues with the bushing going in. The '73 crank is from a big car w/auto and is not drilled big enough. It is around 1.060" as near as I can tell, or about 0.030" too small. It is deep enough however. My '76 crank is big enough for the first .625" or so. Then it necks down about 5-10 thou or so. So a bushing would go in fine until about 0.125" was sticking out. Don't know if that is for extra clamp, or it is not machined properly. My old bushing meaures 1.096" OD by .75" length.
my 73 crank was drilled deep enough just not large enough to accept the standard bushing. just for kicks i froze my bronze bushing and then forced it in to the crank with a BFH. then i tried installing my trans to see if the shaft would go in the bushing.. not a chance.. I cut the bronze bushing out and installed my Victory performance adapter busing and retried.. smooth as butter. the price of the adapter busing with shipping was 50.00 from Dick Miller racing. it's a roller bearing rather than a bushing and it's actually a nicer piece than the needle bearing style.
That Dick Miller bearing looks like a real nice piece. I have never seen a sealed cartridge bearing used like that, but I have to say it looks like it would hold up a lot better then the needle bearing type. :TU: Where did you get it?
I ordered it directly from Dick Miller racing. bearing was 39.00 plus shipping. it comes complete with instructions for all applications and situations
Installed my pilot bushing that was included with my Ram brand clutch assembly. The OD on the pilot bushing is slightly larger than the inside diameter of the crank shaft...installed bushing and now the inside diameter if the pilot bushing is too small to accept the input shaft on the transmission.:spank: Today I purchased 3 different pilot bushings, the NAPA brand (roller pilot bearing) OD is the smallest of the three. Playing hell trying to get the most recently installed pilot bushing back out of the crank. Was thinking of just getting a drill bit and opening the bushing up slightly. Does anyone have any thoughts on if this is a good or bad thing or should I keep trying to remove the bushing from the crank and start with a fresh one???? Help!!!!!
I put a Chevy Roller in the BBB 4X4. Fit great. But.....when I had the crank at the machine shop, I had that crank hole checked in advance.
dick miller racing has the adapter bushing that goes in cranks like yours.. dont try to use the one you have in there now.
My 455 was auto and I got a bushing from TA for my Richmond 5 speed. It was suppose to tap right in, after awhile it tapped right in alright (i didn't want to force it so used a bigger hammer) and when it did the tranny would'nt fit in the bushing. ...alittle dremmel work and presto. The way I see it the tranny input only spins in the bushing when the clutch pedal is depressed?
That's the idea I was thinking...maybe a small dremel sanding bit and take a few thousands out of the bushing to make the input shaft fit. We will give it a try.
what happens when you dont get the hole exactly centered? just spend the 50.00 and buy the dick miller bearing. it's a very nice piece
