The biggest problem I am having is getting the most recent new pilot bushing I installed out easily. Sanding bit on the dremel seemed to work ok this evening. Clearance is a few thousands larger than the tip of the input shaft. Shaft goes in just fine sine the modification of the bushing with the sanding bit. What would be the issues if I run with what I have done?? I agree with your suggestion of changing the pilot bushing but the problem is getting the bushing back out at this point. I have tried pullers with slide hammer and nothing is working. Any advise.
If you need to remove the bushing once you drive it in, you could try cutting the bushing starting on the inside with a small dremel die grinding bit or a pencil or die grinder. Take care not to go all the way through as you don't want to grind the crank. Once you get most of the way through go to the opposite side, and do the same thing, this should relieve the pressure and shrink the bushing somewhat enough that it should pop out with a slide hammer or something else. This is what I would do, someone may have a better idea or have a proper tool to remove it but I don't have one.
Jeff I have had the same exact problem you have, I found a roll sanding attachment for the Dremel that was a perfect fit. Be careful and push the Dremel straight into the bushing. You do not have to enlarge the opening very much at all. Take your time. I have a year and a half on this bushing modification with no problems.
Greg, you did exactly what I did last night. I noticed the ID of the pilot bushing is slightly larger after the modification, which gave a slight bit more movement in the hole (when using my clutch alignment tool) to work ok. I slid one of the pilot bushings on the end of the alignment tool and can wiggle the bushing, there is some clearance there. You can feel more movement when sliding the pilot bushing on the worn M21 input shaft. I guess you probably have tha same Dremel kit that had the sanding disc that just snugly fits in the bushings. With your success with the added clearance with no issue, I feel this is a good fix. Thanks for the input, glad to know I am not the only one who has done this modification. :TU:
Has anyone got pics of how far in the Pilot bushing is suppose to be? I'm thinking now that I should cut mine out and start over?
Paul are you saying the dick miller racing piece is cheap chinesium? i highly doubt that considering the qaulity of the parts dick miller makes and sells. there may be cheap copies out there that are using crappy bearings.
I just bought a GM pilot roller bearing & it measures 1.093 in. I took it to my machine shop & I am having them shave down .023' so it will fit in my crank. It seems that the GM bearing has enough meat on the outside to shave it down some, the aftermarket does not seem to have as thick of a casing. I'll probably pay the guy $20.00, so that + the $16.00 to buy the bearing = $36.00. Close to the Miller piece, but w/out shipping. We'll see how it comes out. o No:
The failure mode for a roller bearing is that the cage or rollers gall then turn to powder, leaving very large clearances for the pilot shaft in the hole. The failure mode for a bushing is that the bushing wears and clearance slowly builds up.
That is what I am saying. If you compare the adapter bearing to the GM original, you will clearly see the difference.
