I'd just get a basic($20) adapter to try.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1932-Carbu...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I have the 4 hole adapter already on hand. If I end up liking the way the dual plane stock intake runs what would you recommend long-term for the spacer the open one in the link or the 4 hole?
I'm on a waiting list at fabcraft for lower gear set and will probably go with the 3:64 and a posi. I also plan on saving up for a brand new 2004r and stall. Figure all this in the next 1 to 2 years. For now Hopefully the intake swap gives me the low speed drivability I'm looking for. Maybe after the other mods I'll revisit the single plane. But honestly the cold starts suck with it and the rich idle sucks...two things I'm not completely sure can be tuned out, atleast not with the quickfuel.
The Quadrajet and the dual plane intake will be the best combination for that car. After that, the AVS. The Quickfuel DP carburetor will work great with the SP3, gears, and the right converter. It's all about combination.
I plan to try the quick fuel first for comparison. Then the avs2. But I am truly convinced the avs is not a big enough carburetor for my 350. The 750 gave me way more power. Jet performance has quadrajets specifically for olds and buick. Are they any good?
No, they are not the way to go. Right here on V8 buick, you have someone who specializes in quadrajets for Buicks. He will build you one specifically calibrated for your engine. He is Ken Gies (techg8). He is in the Vendor Section, https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?forums/everyday-performance-llc.172/ https://www.everyday-performance.com/
There was also Mark Northcutt, he was here as carmantx, but I can't find him as a member currently. https://quadrajetpower.com/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/quadrajetpower/
I actually came across that website last night. I have seen you guys talk about every day performance as well. I have over $1000 invested in the quickfuel. Sucks pretty bad lol. Live and learn I guess. I've been doing alot of that. My brother told me not to run the sp3 and told me I'd need a stall with my cam. You guys all warned me too but by then the parts were already bought. 1 year later and $2000 worth of carbs and sp3 and I'm considering stock stuff.
Hold onto the double pumper. If you find the stock intake works for you, maybe get the TA dual plane aluminum intake. That has both bolt patterns. You can go from one carburetor to the other easily. That's what I do. For my street driving, I use the QJ and love it. At the track, I swap on the 1000 DP carb in 15 minutes and go racing. I have my braided fuel line that easily transfers.
The square bore carb on a stock intake with a open spacer will not work worth a crap. A regular ol Holley 750 would have been fine on the car but everyone thinks they need one of these quick fuel this carb or that carb, a regular tried and tru Holley is all you need. A 750 should work fine on that SP3 I really do not know why there is a problem. My car has not started for a month and I bet the moment that car can squirt gas in that carb it will fire right up and keep on running without stalling. I have a 230-245 cam with 510 lift so that should make it stall but it doesn't. 10 inches of vac after start up. The engine bogs either because you are squirting in too much gas at once or it its not small and not long enough or the gearing is so low that the carb cannot get the main system to start before it before the engine gets going. SP3 you need at least a 342 gear and at least a 2200 stall convertor then when you mash it it will be at 2500 rpm and there will be no bog or too much gas because the carb will be in transition A SP3 and a stock the rest of the way is not going to work I had the exact same problem with a stock intake and a Holley 650 Double pumper Spread bore. would not come out of the hole good and now I know I was shooting too much gas in there with the stock stall. It was not as bad with the 373 gear when I put that in but by then I had the cab shooting way too much gas but I was not as smart then and probably not now either but what the heck I say disconnect the secondaries and retune the primary system to the spec it needs to be then hook up the rest and tune that. This thing should be able to tune off the front barrels with out a problem, You may not be able to floor it but don't floor it 1/2 throttle should be enough to tun in those primaries. A big carb is not going to work with stock parts in the drivetrain you technically need about a 600 dp carb with the basically stock drivetrain Then it will yank out of the hole. Now you got to remember , the Q-Jet may be a 750 but it is not wide open when you mash it, yes the back two are open but it is waiting for the engine to open up that flap to feed more gas. Put a damn 3500 stall in there with a 373 gear and a 2004r plus lockup convertor trans and that biatch will fly and kick everyones ars out of the hole and I KNOW THIS FOR A FACT. 13.20 1/4 times I have not seen any guts on here. Another year wasted on 350 V8 and no show anywhere where are those hot power adder 350's at Do I still have you all beat with my 17 year old 11.81 @ 114 time slip?? HA HA of course!
Not really a bog issue. Mainly a low speed drivability problem. Lean stumble at very light acceleration. (Open plenum intake not delivering enough signal to carb on transition from idle to low speed cruise) And extremely rich idle. Old school Holley MIGHT be the ticket. the quick fuel metering block Calibrations are WAY different than old school stuff. QF has way more emulision bleeds and the idle fuel restrictor is at the top of the block. I've thought about plugging a couple of the emulsion bleeds and tapping ifr holes in the lower position. Professional carb shops supposedly do this often because of the same issues I'm having. 50cc pump made a huge difference and pretty much took care of the bog. Does get a little rich but nothing too crazy. I have an AFR gauge.
So if you have a lean stumble you would need to either put in a cam that will squirt gas sooner or change the shooter to a larger one and slow down the cam to not give a big squirt Maybe change to the #1 on the cam screw instead of # 2 That changes the squirt volume
You actually need the gearing to get the cam into its running mode then the carb will respond like it is supposed to. The cam probably needs to get up to 2200 rpm to get in its band of running and not on the loping mode.
Get the primary part straightened out first before you do secondaries. If you are rich at idle then you need to change those air bleeds to correct this you are giving it too much gas, that is probably why you have a hard time starting it. Now you trying to make up for this by putting those real hot plugs to cure this? if so you are trying to fix one problem by using hotter plugs and that will cause a new problem. You have to be able to slow the engine down with the 4 corner idle system if not it is not in operation and you will never get the idle right.
Guy, In all the time I have been on V8, and other boards, I have NEVER seen anyone have as much trouble dialing in a Holley 4150 type carburetor as the OP. Holleys almost always run good right out of the box, maybe a jet change, or a squirter change, but that's usually it. Air bleeds? You shouldn't have to touch them. I said it pages back, there is something else going on here. Maybe we will figure it out in another 5 pages, or not.
Air bleeds let more air in and can make lean stumbles even worse. If I fatten up the idle into the 10s on the afr the stumble pretty much disappears. I've been through everything. I've reset t slot numerous times too. I have an afr gauge. I can see the changes instantly. I can't make this combo work. It's not a streetable setup.
Lol I think it is too much playing with the carb and should go back to basic set up. The engine wants rpm with the bigger cam and there is none. hence, trouble with the low end, I was getting this back when I had the stock motor with the 268 Comp Cam in there stock convertor and 256 gear 650 dbl pump Holley. Always had trouble trying to get going out of hole until I put the 373 gear in By that time I had the carb all screwed out of shape. The Thermoquad ended the motor by flooding out at that time The intake is meant to not have any heat and until this thing gets really warm it is going to stumble that is that and that is the way it is no heat, no atomization of gas, then it is in drops and not mist so the thing stumbles. The damn intake is meant to bust a nut past 6500 rpm it aint going to work 100% down low like a regular intake that has heat to it. If the plan is to bump this thing up the you got to wait till you get it done or put the TA DP intake on it with the heat going to it and the damn thing will run right. After you put that carb back and start over and forget the damn afr meter the oxy is probably junk now from running rich you got no check engine light to tell you that.
