Air bleeds are all within 4 thousands of the stock settings. Main jets and secondary jets are down 6 or 8 sizes but that's absolutely what it took to get the AFR in the right range. Power valve restrictor is factory, idle jets are 2 sizes bigger which helped quite a bit with low speed drivability but is too rich. Primary Transfer slots are within .020 to. 040. Its possible that the carb just sucks.
I've been monitoring this thread since last year. I'm looking forward to when the OP decides to bite the bullet and install a 3 series gear and the TSP 9.5 converter. Those two changes all by themselves will blow his mind with the increased performance. He'll be able to do burnouts from now until next week. Might have to re-tweak the carb again too.
You are pretty much describing how mine acts, #2 plug will foul up alittle but clears up in a block or 2. I'm running a 750DP on the SP3 with alum. heads and roller cam. I ran the same carb on the motor when it was a mild flat tappet cam and stock cast iron heads with the same issues but with good performance with both set ups. I don't have the adj. air bleads and such, just 4 corner idle mixture. I don't know how the SP3 would work on a relativly stock motor but I have tons of low end with this set up. If you're going back to a dual plane might as well just go with cast iron intake and Q-jet. There wasn't a noticable difference on my first set up when I went from cast intake and Q-jet to dual plane and 750DP.
For now i just want to drive it without an eye burning rich idle and would like to pull away from a stop sign without wondering if I'll need to feather the throttle.
How is your low speed drivability like? Like creeping away from a red light with light acceleration? And what are the specs on your stall converter?
3200 stall, very responsive but a rich idle and low speed cruise. When it warms up good my idle will be in the low to mid 13's, but on coast in will drop into the 11's
Its probably my stock torque converter causing most of the issues. When you are stopped at a stop sign with your foot on the break does your car still want to move? I'm idling around 800 rpm (650 in gear) my car wants to move on it's own at that rpm. I know its sort of normal but i think mine is kind of bad. Would a higher stall completely eliminate this issue?
A higher stall converter will reduce, but not eliminate, creep at idle and also reduce any harshness in the neutral to Drive engagement.
Just put a new trans in and I need to drive it to see how it acts now. Before it would slam into gear and not idle in gear below 750. with just the short drive to warm the trans up to check fluid level it went into gear a lot smoother. I will let you know how it does after I take it for a cruise.
I actually took the car on a 6 hour round trip to Des Moines the other day. Over all went okay other than the occasional stumble right off idle. Of course it's still too rich at idle. Real reason for this update is I am buying a 350 from a 69 wildcat. It was a factory 4 barrel. I'm paying 50 bucks for it. I should have it by the end of the month. The guy selling it is on vacation right now and I'm leaving in a few days for vacation so itll be later in Sept before I can get it. I've known about the motor for quite a while. I've decided to buy it because I want to try the intake. I'm assuming I'll need the adapter plate to run a square bore carb and is there anything else I need to do to the factory intake to work with my current build?
I would 100% go with a rebuilt Q jet on the stock intake. I don't know how well the adapter plate idea would work.
I'm not opposed to that down the road but I want to at least try the quick fuel so I can get it a real comparison. The adapter plate that I have is pretty thick and could potentially help build velocity right? Should I do any port work to the intake?
This is the most common adapter, https://www.holley.com/products/fue...d_spacers/adapters_and_spacers/parts/300-6QFT Using that adapter may decrease the signal the carburetor gets. Adds a bit of plenum volume, but I can't see it increasing air velocity. It's an adapter, not even as good as an open or four hole spacer. It will also cost you hood clearance. You should put that carburetor back to box stock.
Right out of the box it had the off idle stumble. I played with the pump squirter sizes alot and that would only seem to help WOT runs. The big open single plane just doesn't give that big 750 enough signal on transition. That's my conclusion. A couple months ago i did put the stock main jets back in it. It was cruising in the low 12s on the afr and dipped into the 9s at WOT. this super street carb is just too much. I'm confident a dual plane will help tame it. But just for kicks maybe when I get back from vacation I'll return it to stock. I doubt I'll mess with the powervalve restrictors though. Out of the box they were wrong from the factory. They were way way too big. I cruise in the high 13s to 14s now. Wot is 12ish. Mpg is 17 to 18 on long trips.
Your car needs better gears and converter to use that SP3 and Holley type carburetor. The dual plane intake and Quadrajet are the best for your current set up. I'm still not convinced you don't have something else going on there. That Holley is not the carburetor for your combination.
Yeah i agree. and I'm all about getting gears and a rear end down the road. For now I just want it to run good. I really just want to enjoy driving it. I'm totally open to running a Quadrajet. But maybe my avs would run pretty good with the stock intake and adapter plate. One thing I really like about the AVS is that it idles nice, the cold starts are great and there is absolutely no low speed drivability issues. It just absolutely will not work good for WOT. it bogged so bad it died. And took 32 seconds to hit 100mph. You remember the videos lol.
