Viper alarm installation help needed

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by buickbonehead, Sep 12, 2009.

  1. buickbonehead

    buickbonehead WOT Baby!

    I've got all the components now. I really appreciate you sending the relays. This is getting easier and easier to understand. I still don't have it all figured out but I've definately had some "Oh, I understand now" moments.

    I now understand the kill switch acts just like a neutral safety switch by interrupting the purple wire. My next question is the kill switch relay has the green and black wire (I know where to connect these) and it also has a yellow and orange wire already connected to the brain. However, there is an additional yellow wire coming from the kill relay. Your post says to hook it up to the ignition. By ignition do you mean a switched 12v source?

    On the battery backup. Should I mount this somewhere where I can easily get to it. In other words do these things eventually no longer hold a charge? The instructions say to hook no accessories to the backup. Does that mean only the brain and the siren are to be hooked up to the battery backup.....is the siren powered by the brain which in turn is powered by the backup?

    Time to map all this out.

    Thanks,
    Rick
     
  2. austingta

    austingta Well-Known Member

    It might be cool to add a late model GM hood release latch cable and handle inside the Wildcat!

    OTOH-- I never lock my convertibles anyway, becaise it is so easy and tempting to just cut the top and reach in and unlock the door...:Do No:
     
  3. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    do the yellow and orange go to seperate terminals on the relay? orange should go to #86. where do each of the yellows go? one should go to #85. does the other go to #87a? if it does and #30 goes to the starter ........THAT'S BRILLIANT!!
    please take a god pic and post it.


    on your alarm, the siren, shock sensor and tilt sensor will be powered directly from the brain. so they will still be powered if a thug attacks your car battery.

    tuck that back up system well away. take into account its weight and mount it securely. that battery could last 8-10 years depending on how well your charging system behaves from now on.
    yes the alarm runs from the battery backup which is constantly kept charged and protected by a diode array in the backup curcuit box.


    "thinking" alarm install as a newby is like those the hours you spend stareing at those silly posters with images hidden in them .... trying to get those first clear glimpses make many people just give up. but once you get the "eyes" for it, it starts flowing naturally for ya.

    oh yes ... a cable release for the hood would be smart addition.
     
  4. buickbonehead

    buickbonehead WOT Baby!

    The relay is wired:

    86=Yellow
    85=Orange
    30=Green
    87a=Black
    87=blank

    The yellow and orange go to the brain.

    The bottom picture is the linkage to the actuator. I will replace the coat hanger with the push rod that came with the actuator.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    do the long yel and orange actually go to seperate terminals on the brain plug? if they do then thats cool.
    if so....then

    green hooks up to the wire "from" the switch.
    black hooks up to the wire "to" the starter.
    yellow taps into the ignition wire.
    orange hooks to the orange wire on the alarm brain labeled "orange "-" ground when armed output".
     
  6. buickbonehead

    buickbonehead WOT Baby!

    Dr. Yuk, I am finally back to this project. Can you give me wiring instructions for the dome light relay?

    Thanks,
    Rick
     
  7. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    #86 taps into constant Power(i have used the orange wire that goes to the int lights before)
    .
    #85 goes to the "domelight supervision" wire on the Alarm ..Most DEIs use a black with white stripe on its main harness. check your alarm info to confirm this is the way yours is.
    .
    #87 taps into the (white?) wire that goes to your door jamb switches.
    .
    #30 goes to Ground

    #87a is not used.
     
  8. buickbonehead

    buickbonehead WOT Baby!

    The battery back-up instructions say to connect its blue wire to the control modules "(-) instant trigger input". That wire, also blue, was the one I was going to use for the hood pin. Can I connect both the hood pin and the battery backup to the same wire?

    Thanks
    Rick
     
  9. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    yes
     
  10. buickbonehead

    buickbonehead WOT Baby!

    Troubleshooting time.

    1. The power locks work fine locking & unlocking. However, when I turn the ignition off...the locks unlock. The brown wire and the white wire go to ground. The purple wire goes to constant 12v. The green and blue wires go to the lock actuators.

    2. The starter kill does not work. I cut the purple wire from the neutral safety switch to the starter and put a plug in to route the purple wire through the starter kill relay. The starter will not turn without being connected to the kill switch. The relay does not break the connection regardless of what position the key is in.

    I am using the old fan motor circuit to supply the "switched 12v". So the power is off in both the "off" position of the key and the "start" position of the key. Switched power is only supplied in the "on" position.

    Thanks Rick
     
  11. buickbonehead

    buickbonehead WOT Baby!

    I think the power locks are ok. It must have some "auto lock/auto unlock" feature. When I start the car it waits a few seconds then locks the doors. Then when I turn it off it instantly unlocks. :Do No:

    Rick
     
  12. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    the starter kill relay when connected like i told you, only works whe the alarm is armed.
    with the alarm armed, you should not be able to crank the car with the key.

    if that "switched " circuit are you running from the fan wire is for the starter kill relay, that is wrong. it needs to be an ign circuit wire. the fan wire has no juice while you are crankin (so the starter kill relay aint getting power it needs)... i think thats the whole issue on tha starter kill.


    the auto door locking is an item that can be unprogrammed once the install is complete.
     
  13. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    you really sound like you are getting pretty comfortable with instal/diagnosis. :Smarty:
    it seems you are well beyond the curve as far as "getting it".:TU:
    you are doin great.

    i dont know your "valet" switch ideas, but i could give you some advice on that if you want .... just not publicly on the board.
     
  14. buickbonehead

    buickbonehead WOT Baby!

    That solved the starter kill.

    I still have the trumpet horns, dome light, and valet switch to go. It probably won't be until next weekend.

    Thank man!
     
  15. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    cool.
     
  16. SpecialWagon65

    SpecialWagon65 Ted Nagel

    Rick- did you get all this working? :beer
     
  17. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    i have kinda wondered myself.
    we had a few emails after this thread, covering valet switch ideas.
    since then, nuttin".
     
  18. buickbonehead

    buickbonehead WOT Baby!

    The car sits in the garage....exactly where this left off. Wires hanging, tools spread out.

    Life gets in the way. It's all good though, 2 kids graduating (college apps & visits, graduate school apps & visits), business doing well, new recreational property, etc.

    All the help is appreciated and I intend to get back to this.

    Rick
     
  19. yuk

    yuk Well-Known Member

    cool.
     
  20. SpecialWagon65

    SpecialWagon65 Ted Nagel

    X 2
    :TU:
     

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