ok! here goes!! I found a 74 455 Block, Its out being sonic checked and the crank is being inspected. Im leaning to build a 470 but its not set in stone. I have compiled a list (not complete) of parts I will need regardless of the direction I go. Im thinking this engine will be 10.1 to 10.5 (10.6) comp. Street strip with mostly street. (this car will not see my trailer, I drive it, and typically drive it like I stole it. LOL I'm trying to NOT use a girdle. The extra cost and seeing this is not a "race" engine Im thinking I can do without. If asked about a horsepower number Im going to say 600 would be amazing. not turning over 6000 RPM. here is my list, Please Im welcome to any input before I call and make the order. I have already received the stage 2 SE aluminum heads from TA as well as a 9.5" converter from TSP (thank you Jim) head gasket- orange crush Or Felpro Stage 2 headers. TA2014CHC pushrod- single adjustable To verify My proper length harmonic balncer- Not sure what one?? head studs- 1136 oil dipstick- 1500B intake bolts- TA 1111-455SS exhust bolts or studs SS Prefer to use studs with 12 point bolts SS fuel line- TA 1534L1-SS timming cover assembly- 1533A timmimg cover bolts and/or studs- SS Prefer studs to aid in future removal. intake gasket TA 1710- not sure what thickness to use?? Lifter baffle- TA1738 455 header gasket- TA 1721 timming cover gasket set- TA 1701 455 oil galley plugs-TA 1519 main bearings- TA 1551 cam bearings- TA 1559 dist clamp TA- 1340
You didn't mention rockers,but said adj. push rods so assuming stock rockers, if so Get roller rockers and non adj pushrods, I know its a big expense but you've gone this far, don't skimp. Also, in my opinion use cometic head gaskets, they are reusable and you can get different thicknesses to achieve the comp ratio you want after you've got the actual deck, piston volume, and head cc. At that hp level make sure of bearing clearances which is easy, with a reputable machine shop,especially if you're offset grinding the crank for a 470 or 482. Use a SFI balancer and flexplate, a stage1 fuel pump won't keep up, an electric booster pump or TSP high volume mechanical fuel pump is needed,
Thank you for your input! In my opinion the Roller rockers are debatable. I may be wrong BUT!!!.... What I have read by some reputable builders here are the roller rockers are not worth the money. Currently I have the heavy duty stamped steel TA rocker shafts. With the 1.55 ratio that TA Built my heads to. I'd purchase one adjustable pushrod. Then order the proper length set. Am I wrong in my thinking??
You are doing this all backwards. First decide what you are building. Of course 470 or 482, that is a no brainer IMO. You'll want pistons with the correct CD so you don't have to mill the block excessively. You'll want better rods anyway, another reason to go 470 or 482. Yes for TA cam bearings, and front cover with set up oil pump. I am using a repro TA balancer and an SFI flex plate. I do not have head studs, just good old ARP head bolts. You'll want to use a hydraulic roller cam, so roller rockers are going to be a must. Get with a good machine shop and decide on your rotating assembly, then go from there.
You're ok, I've gone 550-575 hp with 69 rockers, a KB mark 4 hyd cam,we didn't have rollers back then, yep I'm that old,lol. You didn't mention a cam so I didn't know how aggressive it is, and 600 hp and probably 6000 rpm+ the rollers are staying on the safe side. I've seen the buttons fail on aggressive cams.I guess I'm maybe too cautious, I recommend rollers on all the motors I do for people when exceeded 600hp.
Remflex exhaust gaskets Romac Balancer, much cheaper than the BHJ and ATI and a proven piece Molnar Rods , if you have confidence in your Crank grinder then go 470 or 482 For a more straightforward approach with less chance of goofing the crank up just go with plug and play Eagle or I believe Molnar has a 6.6 Plug and play rod as well. Molnar over Eagle if so TEFLON COATED dual groove bearings, TA should just stop carrying all the others imo No need for timing cover studs, that's what the dowels are there for
As mentioned you didn't say anything about cam planned. I would consider getting your head ported. Finishline motorsports has a killer cnc program for a very reasonable price. The extra airflow will make your goal easier. I would thing about at least a halo girdle or poston girdle pan to give the bottom end some help to not move around I would also recommend the roller rockers, I too ran non roller rocker for years into the 10.90s, but at only 1320ft per time. Your talking about lots of driving and hard driving by the way you sounded. Wouldn't it suck to break a 50 y/o rocker bend a valve in a brand new 2500 set of heads, and trash a new piston, maybe break a rod, all to save 750 bucks? Big motors are a pay to play game, if you can't swing building it right the first time, you sure as heck won't be able to do it the second time. Heads, stroker crank, rods, pistons, intake, carb, ignition, machine work, headers, etc your pushing 10k or more, don't risk loosing it for having poor valve train and an unsupported bottom end. A lot of ppl have worked hard over the years to produce our motors the parts needed to make these power levels and live there, to not be on the doorstep to break everyone you hit the gas......use them and enjoy your motor and let it live
Ok you have a great point about the roller rockers. In the big picture there aren't that much money. I'm still going to collect parts. That I need.
