Upgrade to a roller setup on 1970 GS455 with many TA parts

Hello, I need some thoughts/help on camshaft/lifters/pushrods/bearings etc. that I have to replace due to lobe issues on a 1970 Buick GS 455. I currently have a flat tappet cam I have to replace. It is a COMP cam camshaft Part number 96-203-4

https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-218-218-hydraulic-flat-cam-for-buick-400-430-455.html

My current valve train setup has many TA parts(circa 2007?) :

TA_STAGE_1SE-A Stage 1 SE Aluminum Cylinder Heads
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_STAGE_1SE-A
TA_1313 455 Stg 1 & 2 Roller Rockers, 1.65 Ratio
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1313
TA_1405 DELPHI HYD. LIFTERS '70/UP
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1405
TA_1621B 455 FORGED PISTON NOTCHED +.040
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1621B
TA_1423-2 5/16" 455 Non-Adjustable Pushrods
http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=435
TA_1559 350-400-430-455 HIGH PERF CAM BEARING
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1559
TA_1533A 455 HI PERF OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1533a


I am going to replace the flat tappet cam with a roller setup to avoid any future lobe issues. I am not interested in strip or racing. I just want something that will idle nice(good vacuum too) and provide power similar to what the Comp Cam had.

I spoke to a person at TA and currently am looking at purchasing these parts so far:

TA ROL-455-1 455 ROLLER CAM CORE STD F.O. SMALL, 210-250 @.050, .300-.350 LOBE, 108-116
LS, 112CL, 1.785 DIA.

Z-GRIND ROLLER CAM455 HYD ROLLER, TA 212RH, .518-221/.507-231 112' @ 1.60

TA 1403G 400-430-455 HEI HARDENED STEEL DISTRIBUTOR GEAR WITH 3/16 ROLL PIN, .4895 SHAFT.

TA 1412-2 455 HIGH PERF HYD ROLLER LIFTER, .093" 808.00 808.00
TOTAL TRAVEL, .842 DIA. 200LBS SEAT MAX, 550LBS OPEN MAX, SET PRELOAD @.035+-.010.

TA ROL150E 455 FLOATING ROLLER CAM BUTTON KIT

TA 1514A 364-400-401-425-430-455 NEOPRENE FRONT TIMING COVER SEAL, FITS TA PERF TIMING

TA 1518M .032 ORIFICE PASSENGER SIDE OIL GALLERY PLUG. 19/32 (.620) DIAMETER.
INSTALL OIL HOLE BETWEEN 10-11 O'CLOCK

(Still discussing Pushrods to get, need to be adjustable)

Distributor setup is HEI


I do not have a whole lot of experience and would appreciate any advice or input prior to ordering parts with this process. TIA

Len

 

You're main problem you're gonna face is more than likely more than half of the parts you mentioned wanting,... especially the cam isn't available and may not be for a while yet if at all,..our parts availability has gone to **** since china flu,.. maybe you'll be in luck but I wouldn't bet on it

 

The heads are probably a year out, Possibly more.

 

I'm telling you fellas the writing is on the wall for Buick performance parts we gonna porting iron junk again here soon

 

I myself don't see why farming out the cnc machine work out to a third party isn't an option for the heads,...the program is written,...what am I missing,..a couple fixtures? Big deal

 

I think its a waste of alot of money to upgrade to a roller cam then cut it down to factory specs.........at that point get an old off the shelf used cam and lifters and save alot....

 

Thanks for the comments so far. As I indicated I already have the heads, roller rockers and many other TA parts already on the motor in the beginning of the thread. I'm looking to avoid the issue of lobe failure again(buy once, cry once) and go to a roller setup. I'll have to ask if the TA roller lifters are Johnson or Morels or theirs? TA did tell me they don't have the blank cam right now, but that they 'expected' it in January. I'd prefer to buy everything from TA if possible. Money is not the issue and I'm not pressed for time. As I indicated I'm not really interested in having a high performance cam just something that I'm not going to have problems with and will be happy with.

 

Rather than specking a near stock cam with your costly setup, why not upgrade it just a bit to take advantage of the roller setup? You can go with something in the 220-230 duration range with lift in the .500-525 range that will give you plenty of vacuum and a smooth idle but some good HP upgrades. Just a thought.

 

1. A roller cam doesn't mean it can't fail,...as the Turbo regal guys,..LS guys,...etc they all can
Fail
2. January,.....ha ok
3. More moving parts to fail,....we have **** parts now,...no matter how you go about it,..it's a gamble,...I'm buying a $520 LS cam for my brothers 408 LS for this reason,...it's the superior 8620 alloy because cam failure rates with even the LS engines are climbing

 

They aren’t all the same.

 

The full shroud is the way to go,..more weight but more secure but the QC,.. tolerance,..and material come into play,...isky teamed up with Johnson to build the best lifters on the market,..I'm gonna give them a try in our 408

 

I would simply get another flat tappet cam and save thousands... nothing wrong with a good nitrated flat tappet. Scotty Brown sells nice custom cams, you can’t go wrong there. Cam me old fashioned but I would trust a properly broken in mild flat tappet over a mild roller cam. The advantage of a roller is getting the big valve events without a super steep ramp that a flat tappet needs. For a mild application the flat tappet gives up very little to a $$$$ roller cam.?

 

I pretty sure the full shroud can only use a 700 wheel. Once you step up to 750 they open up. The bigger wheel does change the numbers of duration and such a bit.......the bigger wheel can allow for more bigger bearings.

We have had some lifter failures in the marine applications. Especially the motors that troll and run lots of trips.......these guys will run these at 600 or even less on carbs for hrs on end.......thsts not alot of oil getting to these rollers, I've been using the pressure pin oiled lifters. They are more but cheap insurance.

Had a guy that we did a 502 for, when he regrouped it to rub correct on top end. He could slow down enough to slow troll in the late and early months when speeds are sub 1mph with water temps just over freezing.......so his answer was to turn the rom in gear down from 700 to 400.......I wouldn't had believed that motor would run that slow all day. I told him never do that again, it will load up and also hurt the stk lifters in his 502. Thats has the cam only turning 200.......not alot of oil getting splashed around there

 

I would look for some NOS chevy tappet lifters with the hard foot bottom. They have a different cup height, but thst just measure for pushrods........without the hard foot lifter your gambling.

Or what might be better since you have the good lifters get a small solid tappet and use the lift with the oil hole in the face. Im sure a baby solid tappet could be ground and adjusted to be quite

 

Hardfoot lifters have a visable plate on the bottom like these hard

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2848502373...nPGfoH/nni7GL0KB6sWMNFGaB+|tkp:Bk9SR-ihy9alYQ

 

Yep. Larger wheel = open shroud.

 

Larry asked for an update. In regards to roller cam cores. We have cores in process at this time. Should be available the beginning of 2023. It is a redesigned core which will allow the use of all stock types of distributor gears that work with standard flat tappet camshafts. This core will also allow the use of the Jesel belt drives, TA1528A Stock GM & TA alum blocks, plus TA raised cam block, TA1528B. We are very close to having product once again.
Stage1SE & Stage1SE Sleeper heads. We now have some finished machined heads in stock.

 

just wondering, seems i read a lot about flat tappet cam failures in the past 10-15 years. are people not using proper oils? adjusting lifters wrong? engine not popping off right away for initial start up? improper break in?
charlie,