I use all steel intake and head gaskets. Used them both dry (as GM suggests) and have sprayed them both with copper coat. No failures either way. Typical silicone outline around intake water ports, a bit heavier copper spray at head water ports. I thought this thread was about crap in the pan....
I ALWAYS use studs on the intake. Install gaskets then intake. No moving around & guessing on a "nail".. Tom T.
Received pistons. 6 pack plus 2. The 2 additional shipped must be older because of slight corrosion and the number stamped on top is "30" and the others are "030" also the older ones piston pins don't slide freely like the other 6.
I’m sure your machine shop could polish the piston pins a bit to allow smoother movement although once the engine is built the pins will stay virtually in the same place so I wouldn’t worry.
Also disassembled heads and one valve stem is larger diameter-the one with the wiped lobe. Looks like tip of that valve stem was never touched by its rocker arm in at least 40 years. All the previous owners I contacted still say they don't remember ANY engine work.... Somebody forgot.
All valves have 3/8 stems except the larger one that was replaced apparently. So I guess machinist will have to put a guide in that one?
Guides are cheap enough, just replace them. DON'T line or sleeve as they WILL fall out UNLESS properly retained. Tom T.
I've had Steve Sánchez at Total Flow Cylinder Heads line mine in the past, no issues. Have a good cylinder head shop do the work.
My cheap micrometer doesn't register the valve stem difference but a 3/8 wrench fits around 15 out of 16 valves. ......Don't see original guides. Looks like head is just machined for valves?
Stock iron heads don't have anything for liners or insert guides. They're all performance & aftermarket goodies. For a check, pull any stock valve out 1/2" from seat and wiggle it. You shouldn't detect much movement, as the guide to stem clearance should be very minimal.
