Now why did you have to go and point that out. You are right it is with the pink wire on the one step retard function. I think my wife might be getting A 6al-2 box for labor day.
Been doing some testing with timing. I have found that the vacuum advance is a big pain in the a$$ to run on the turbo setup. I have found that 12* initial without vacuum advance is the best for off idle acceleration with 32* all in at 3000 rpm. this will require a distributor re curve kit from Mr gasket use the lightest springs. A interesting thing that I have found is that the boost is all in almost instantly above the throttle blades. I have my boost reference for the waste gates above the throttle blades. I think this is why my below the throttle blades boost is much slower to come on. Does anyone know if I should be pulling the waste gate signal from above or below the throttle blades? My thought is that if I pull from below the blades then the gates will stay closed until the engine see the right amount of boost instead of opening early based on the above the blades boost.o No: What do you guys think? Does anyone have experience with this?
I don't know what works best for the blow through setups. Lawrence Conley suggested drilling holes in each compressor housing and running a line straight to the wastegate. This lets the wastegate see the boost signal as soon as possible.
Came home tonight from a mild flogging on the Skymaro:Brow: and as I pulled into the driveway the brute was blowing steam from under the hood.:shock: There was a sizable trail of water fallowing me into the driveway. I instantly thought I blew freeze plugs like before when I was detonating real bad.:ball: But as I looked I saw all the water was coming from the over flow. I got the hose out and began to cool the radiator down until I could get the cap off. I slowly began to cool it down with cold water. after getting it cooled down and topped off with water I left the cap off and started the beast. It immediately began puking water out the radiator again. This went on for about 10 attempts but every time it would puke the water out and not just a little.:rant: I thought well maybe the thermostat was stuck shut and the water pump was somehow just blowing the water out the cap.ray: Wishful thinking of course because we all know that would not be the culprit. But I took the radiator hose of the thermostat housing and had the engine cooled down to about 180* and started the engine and nothing was coming out of the thermostat housing. Then at about 185* it started gushing out of the thermostat housing of course that is what it should do once it gets up to temp. I was thinking O' know that's not it so it must be blowing compression in to the cooling system.:af: And as I was bent over the radiator:af: with my eyes closed:af: and head hanging inches from the radiator:af: and the rage building the more I could hear a voice in my head telling me to through the socket wrench through the windshield.:af: So I opened my eyes and began to raise my head to quiet the voice and through the wrench:af: I noticed the water pump belt tangled up in the alternator.ou: Put the belt back on and drove the car around for another 20 minutes without any problems. True story guys.:beerall is good again in Skymaro Land.
Did some tuning today to get AFR's ready for 8psi. I had to go clear down to 68 jets on primaries to get a 12.5 AFR at 65mph next I set the secondaries all the way down to 75 jets just to get the AFR's at wide open throttle to get high 10's low 11's. I ran 8 psi with an 8.7 spring. It hits 4-6 psi fairly fast and takes until top of second gear to hit 8 psi @100mph. this thing pulls harder in second gear than my 12.80 NA car pulls in first. My next plans are to put the 4 psi spring back in the gates and hook the manual boost controller (that I got in the mail yesterday) up to get 10 psi. supposedly this will help build boost faster. I got the controller that has the check ball and spring in it. This allows all the boost to stay in the bonnet until the boost over powers the spring and check ball(10psi) and then it hits the gate all at once with 10psi to open fast. this is spoused to eliminate the premature opening of the gate and keeps the gate completely closed until it gets to the manual boost controller setting(10psi). Should see track time on 8/13/2010. If everything goes well on 10psi then I hope to be running 12psi on race day. I got a few turbo stangs in mind that run 7.70's (1/8mile). Same as what I ran on 6 psi with a crappy 2.10 60'. Car Jumps fairly hard right now and should get 1.80 60' just because of the re curve kit and starting with 14* initial instead of 4*. And then if you take into effect that I know have a 3000 stall switch pitch instead of the stock stall I had before I hope that I should get down into the 1.70 60'. that alone gets me down to to the 7.40's. Then you take into the fact that my 7.70 runs took the whole track to get to 6psi and now it hits 6psi before I am out of first gear. Huston we have a problem, my car has no roll bars and any car faster than 7.39 needs roll bars. Looks like I will be fender racing until the last pass of the night(whoops):Brow:
It's amazing how much smaller you jet that little 650. I went to 70 in the front and have not changed the secondaries yet. Still drops to 10 at wot. Quickfuel must have some real big holes behind the powervalve. With the 70 I cruise about 12.8's so could go down another step like you did.
As far as timing I still run 22* with 32* total. Pulling 1.5 degrees out for each # of boost with the retard system. So I should be pulling about 26 degrees at wot and 4 psi. I have pulled 1.72 60 foots without boost.
Changed the secondary jets from 84 to 78. So I am running 70/78 on the jets. WOT was right around 11. Now the question is should I lean it out a little more or put the new pulley on? No need to run a pole on that question.... 100% run the new pulley:laugh:
does it really need that much timing pulled out ?? seems like your leaving ALOT on the table NICE SET UP
Don't know what it needs pulled out. Being real safe right now. Better to leave HP on the table than crank on the track :laugh:
