I've got my booster and master in, now I just need to get my bending/flaring tools today or tomorrow, as well as a few line wrenches to remove the old tubes, and I'll get the lines started. I've decided to just go with steel lines for now, but I'm going to replace all the flexible lines with braided stainless steel lines from Inline. With a black finish for a more original look, of course... :grin:
Sorry I didn't reply earlier. I ended up using a 64 booster, and a Bendix 67 master cylinder. Anyway, I finished sandblasting my first backing plate last night, and coated it with self-etching primer. What's the proper color of a backing plate for a 64 Wildcat? I assume it was just bare metal. If so, where do I get bare metal colored spray paint? The self-etching primer is olive green, so it definitely won't do. ou:
I use this stuff I found in Pep Boys called "steel wheels". I think Plasticote makes it? maybe wrong. It's urethane based, chemical resistant, tough and it dries to a semi-flat finish. I used it on my a/c hoses (on the metal parts) and it looks like fresh steel when dry. And be sure to let that self etching primer dry real well.......I usually wait 2 days to be sure.
Thanks, I'll look into that, too bad there isn't a Pep Boys around here. Anyway, what's the best way you guys have found for refinishing bolts and springs and other little parts? I've soaked a few such parts in CLR for about 24 hours, so they're nice and rust-free, but I don't know if I should try and paint them, or if I should get a zinc plating system to plate them.
I know I've been away for a while, but I'm just barely keeping above water with everything I have to do, much less work on the car!:rant: Anyway...I noticed while poking around at McMaster Carr that they sell sheets of brake lining. Does anyone think it would be worthwhile if I were to line my own brake shoes? The lining is only held on by rivets, and I have a riveter, so wouldn't it just be a matter of cutting/bending the material to the right size, drilling holes, and re-riveting? Or am I just wasting time thinking about it? The thing I went to McMaster to look for is this: 90 degree elbow fittings for my brake lines. I need two elbows to fit into the master cylinder, and then another elbow to connect to the rear brake line. Would the elbows cause problems? Cause I'm not sure how else I can do it, since the windshield washer reservoir would be in the way of regular bends in the tubing, since the ports from the 67 master cylinder are on the opposite side of the cylinder than the 64 cylinder... (so was that post confusing or what? :laugh: )
I wouldn't mess with a home relining job unless you're totally out of options. 90 fittings won't hurt anything, just be careful checking thread sizes. Brake systems use some oddball thread designs that can catch you off guard. Some time at a decent mom & pop auto parts store should do it. Those are the places that usually have someone to help who knows what they're talking about rather than some of the big chains. FYI, any home tube flaring you do needs to be double flared...single won't cut it. Devon
I think I'm gonna do the relining job, just because I don't think it'll be too hard, and it'll be cheaper too. I just got my set of stainless steel brake lines from Inline Tubes today as well, and boy do they look good! :grin: Now I just need to finish taking out all of the old lines and put the new ones in! Then I get to make my own lines from the master cylinder to the frame, and that's that job. How hard is it to take lines out of the frame? Next I have to order a line bender, the 90 degree fittings, and the lining material! (They have three types, I'm gonna go for the one for faster, harsher stops. Can't have enough stopping power with drum brakes!)
Well, it will just be one line that goes down the driver's side frame rail. I took one out of a car that had no body on it and it was still a pain. It has a few bends in it when it comes out of the back frame rail and over to the bracket for the connection on top of the diff. It will be a two person job to get the old one out. One person pulling from the front and one massaging the line into the frame from the back.
Quick update. I replaced the main line today, with my dad's help, wasn't too hard. Took some massaging, but didn't have to take off fenders or anything like that. The old one needed to be cut up to get it out though, that was a pain!:rant: Anyway, I'll hopefully get to the rest of the lines this week. Also, does anyone know where I could get a replacement junction box for the brake lines? They don't need replacing per se, but if I could find replacements, that'd be grand. :laugh:
:rant: Curses unto the frame clips which hold brake lines!! I got two of them out on the line that goes under the engine, but the next one refuses to budge! Is there any special trick to them? uzzled:
IMHO for a street driven car non-concours resto i wouldn't recommend silicone fluid. Silicone fluid does not have the ability to absorb moisture from the system like DOT 3 does. DOT 3 actually suspends water molicules within itself so the moisture dosen't "pool" in one spot allowing it to flash to steam or to expand when it gets hot if it were to collect in one area. on a concours car it makes sence because many times people paint their brake components to look factory fresh and you don't want the paint to be washed away from the fluid.[/QUOTE] I was told that you want Silicone fluid, because it does not hold moisture. That's the main reason that the old brake systems fail, because moisture got into the lines and pits the heck out of stuff. Cars that sit more than drive should have silicone Interesting, that your not recommending it for the same reason it was recommended for me to use ito No: Maybe this is a good one for a pole? I'm about to redo a brake system as well, hopefully others will chime in. Rich
