So I'd like to remove just the engine from my new 1970 GS 455 4 speed. I've done autos before in and out of BB Skylarks, but this is my first time pulling one from a 4 speed car. Can I just unbolt the bell housing from engine and pull or is the throwout bearing gonna give problems? I already have the engine mounts and exhaust disconnected, was trying to just drop the oil pan until I removed the starter and found a freeze plug that is seriously rusted and weeping behind it. Combined with the crappy oil pressure at higher rpms that I haven't solved yet and a broken manifold stud, I am wanting to just pull it for repairs. Rather than be miserable under the car all day. Any tips are appreciated. I wanted to avoid pulling the trans unless that's the best way to pull it out.
Mine (with an iron case Super T-10 bolted on) slips in and out like a supermodel's foot into a high heel pump. Bolt a lift plate over the carb holes, hook into the middle hole, and go to it. Get a tranny tail plug; disconnect your clutch and shifter linkage; remove the crossmember.
yes I would pull them both together. Buy a trans plug and its easier than an auto. If you have never lined up a 4 spd input shaft through the bell, throw out bearing and into the pilot bearing your in for a treat. Its hard to do when its all on a lift and lined up right. Add in the engine hanging on a picker and your not going to get it together
Ok was hoping it was like an auto and you could pull the engine by itself, but no sweat I guess. I was able to rip the bad freeze plug out, but I still want to pull the engine. Turns out the engine still has the stock timing setup....so that HAS to go, cause nylon gears just aren't cool. If it'll be down for a while I will toss in my other 455 for a while until this one is rebuilt.
Or you can pull the trans itself out, leaving the bellhousing on the engine and pull it that way. Personally, I use an engine tilter. Makes life so much easier
Andy, I would pull the engine and 4 speed trans as one unit. Good information in the prior posts. :TU: Ron
Copy all, I've got a engine leveler and a couple new quarts of GL-4 cause I've been wanting to change trans fluids anyway. Also have a new clutch kit, headers, and exhaust to install. Hopefully the headers don't foul any of the clutch linkages and such, they're TA PERFORMANCE so should be good.
Engine and trans is out. How do you take the shifter bar out without unbolting all the shift levers and shifter??? Prepping replacement engine for install. Is there a place that sells new rubber bushings for all the Z bar and clutch linkages??? Mine are done!
Shifter bar? You mean the chrome handle? There is a clip that attaches it into the shift selector. You have to slip a thin piece of metal in between the insulator/ clip assy and handle on the left side. I happen to have a shifter handle and clip in my office. As soon as my phone charges up, I'll post up a picture. Motorcitysupercars on Ebay carries the 1970 and up style rubber insulators for the shift levers
Is there still a place to send the shifters to for rebuild? I remember Mr Gasket when they bought Hurst but now they were bought by Eldebrock?
They aren't that difficult to rebuild yourself. Its definitely not rocket science. Ive rebuilt several. The rebuild kit from Hurst shifters online is $100 and the insulators and clips that hold the handle in are about $50.
Clutch linkage bushings: GM part 387-2955 at yer local Chivvy dealer. Will come up as a 2nd Gen Corvette sway bar link bushing. Two per package. Get yourself a spherical rod end (napa part 732-1129) and the appropriate exhaust stud to replace that lower clutch adjustment rod (you'll never go back to the OEM garbage).
Ahh OK, that makes sense. Yeah I need new rubber bushings on all the clutch linkages/Z bar. My shifter could probably use a rebuild too, its caked in dried grease and gunk.
Nice! Thanks! Yeah I figured there'd be some good info out there for replacement parts being a GM and all, will order up the goods as soon as possible! What size exhaust stud does it use? I noticed that adjustment rod on mine had broken and was welded back together at some point in its past, was planning to replace that part too. Got any pics of what it looks like?
Never mind, I found pics. Also found polyurethane bushings that would probably last longer than the rubber ones!
You get the size that fits! Really! When you collect your rod end at Napa you'll take your old rod with you and the swivel nut and collect the proper stud threaded to accept the rod end joint and the nut. Don't forget your lock nut. Spend $2.00 and get a few different length studs (different pressure plates sometimes need more "throw" and I don't know what you got). Go to the tranny forum and search for this clutch linkage stuff. There are a few pics there.
Rod end will be in tomorrow. I got a preliminary stud to try out. The clutch is an Oreilly special, Power Torque Part # K5552-03CB ceramic button 6 puck clutch. I'm anxious to see how it drives with all these new parts. I really didn't care for the way the clutch worked before, squeaky pedal and sounded like a worn throwout bearing.
