OK folks- with a little prodding here is the scoop- about a year ago I bought the "baddest n/a 350 around" from another board member ( thanks Rob ) this was the PAE 350 built by mr. burek that dynoed 551hp/501 torque at 5700 RPM. The engine,posi with 2:73, a 3000 coan converter solid locating arms with rear sway bar 4wdiscs and a 2.5" exhaust with quiktime cutouts are all setting at a local speed shop waiting to become one. The car is a 76 Regal with the hurst package-ttops,buckets,console etc (95% of the work is done on the car except for some interior parts. All the calcs say Ill have an 11 second car- we'll see!!:Brow: Robert
Not to mention that the car will go through the traps at a significantly lower RPM than it's power peak of 5700. 3.42 gears minimum, I like 3.73's for that engine.
Ahhhh! now im getting confused ( easy ) with the 3:73's I'm worried about taching out at low mph on the freeway- with the stock th350 3rd, what can i expect for a top end- 0-70 wont cut it!! Robert
If you want the best ET and trap speed, 3.73's are it. On the highway though, 70MPH will be about 3300-3400 RPM with stock height tires. The motor makes peak HP at 5700 RPM. The only way around that is an Overdrive of some sort. If your trap speed is say 110 MPH, you'll only be at 54-5500 RPM with the 3.73's
That I can live with- I just don wan no steekin stang creepeen up my backside on the freeway- chu know wat ima talkin about?! A gearvendors unit may be in the future but I'm gonna be tapped on this round.:idea2: Robert
I can't wait to see the beast run! One thing I noticed was the 3000 stall converter. If you're running less than 3000 rpms, I believe you'll be slipping the tranny. Plus, I think the car's weight has some significance on when the converter actually locks in. So, it may even stall high than 3000 depending on how heavy the car is. With those cruising gears, you might run into some tranny heating issues. I would go for the 3.73 ratio.
If it is a good converter, it is built tight for the street. The transmission doesn't slip, the converter will not be coupled at lower RPM's if it is too loose. In that case, it will heat the fluid up more than it should. Just make sure to run a decent sized cooler
What height of tires are you planning to run and how often to you plan to race? Do you plan to drive over 70 mph much?
The converter I have is a Coan from a member that the shop was trying to talk me out of using-( used converter will void tranny warranty ) but i think im gonna stick with the Coan as it was a 2800~3200 stall which to me on the torque band looks about perfect- If you cant trust one of us-who can you trust??- and I already paid $220?for the converter, its not dropping chunks out the i/o shaft and is not ballooned or cracked so what the hell?-350/400 is the same right? this is bolting to an externally balanced SFI flexplate ( per PAE ) with grade 12 bolts from T/A and a hitachi style mini starter spinning the assy. I have SPI locator bars with poly bushings hookin up the rear and what do you guys think about QA1 vs some good old gas pack schocks for the rear- I'm not too much into tuning - lets bolt it on and go! Also the carb is a Demon 1050 fed by an Aeroquip pump and a warmed up HEI spark setup. All this is dumping thru a set of coated headers with 3" collectors that I plan to neck down to 2.5" after the quicktime cutouts and an O2 sensor for monitoring/later EFI conversion. Rear end is going willwood/ similar for serious WHOA!! with stock disc fronts with crossdrilled vented rotors and greenstuff pads. Wrapped around this are 17" AR500 rims with ( Nitto ? ) condoms. All of this is seriously in motion, at the shop- health keeps me from my own tools ( 100$ / paycheck for 5 years ) , my wife will kill me if she sees this, so keep your hats on or I'll dig up YOUR OLD POSTS!! ANY and all advice is welcome. The goal, is a stealth regal. You guys have your GSX/2'S - what about a real surprise where its not even looked for. A 76 Regal? with a rear spoiler? who is this idiot? The idiot with 550 HP lookin to nail yo ass thru dual flowmasters ( after the cutouts...!) Robert:blast:
I guess it depends if you care about the warrantee on the trans or not, tough call! This is going to be one bad ass car! And to top it all off when you pop the hood and show it is a 350 heads will spin!
2 things you need to do. because of the chassis and t-tops, install a roll bar. car/body will be twisting too much w/o it. the 3:73's and what you have already will run 6500 at the end, but that motor really needs a single plane intake. :laugh: :Smarty:
I was thinking about tweaking the body- but I REALLY dont want a roll bar- too restrictive - as far as the manifold- the dyno sheet i have is using a t/a manifold-551hp- i'm happy!:Brow: Robert
if you start racing a lot and with slicks, you will need a roll bar. 73-77 chassis aint cracked up to be what you think. borrow sean's intake, trust me, you wont want to give it back. not to be personal, roll bar ''too restrictive'' is being ''too stupid''. i've hit the wall at the end. ''roll bar my friend now''
Not taken poorly! This is a STREET car- I intend to take it out on warm days when my bones are'nt so creaky and go terrorize the local teenagers (heh-heh-heh ) so Im not gonna be ball to the walling it all the time-quite the opposite- I just want to drive a car with POWER. I drive a caddy w/a northstar now and that thing moves pretty good! I've forgotten what REAL HP/TQ is!! Any suggestions for gusseting the frame, bring em on! Any more frame comments?? Robert
