Removal and replacement of timing chain

Alright, I'll use the harmonic balancer with the neoprene seal. I hope your right. Adam gave me some permatex spray hi-tack so I'll use that on the new gasket, and maybe some rtv around the two big water ports. The oil pan gasket slipped down when I put the cover on so I made new holes in it just to get the bolts though. But it looks like it still would have sealed on all ends. Oil slinger is already on.

Im weary of the cam bolts, I put plenty of loctite on them and torqued them to 22ft lbs but the cam gear starts to move once I get to that torque level. Im also worried because Im using a pointer style torque wrench. I checked the slack in the chain and it didnt move much on the passenger side but the driver side moved about 1/4. o No:

Also, the guy who installed the neoprene seal for me, didnt have to machine anything or modify the cover in any way. He didnt crack it either.

 

Got the timing cover assembly back on. No problems. Used rtv on the cover, block, oil pan gasket and hi-tack on the timing cover gasket both sides. I think im covered. :laugh: Maybe overboard but would I really want to pull it all back apart. Also a little fyi, TA's timing cover bolt kit is crap. They give you some of the bolt, and only a few of them work. The oil pan bolts would require me to cut new threads in the cover not to mention using a wrench to get them in because of tight clearances to the centerlink. Off to the parts store! The last pic is a preview of what's to come. :Brow: :grin: :bglasses: :beer :TU: :3gears:

 

Nice and shhhhhhhhhhhhhhiny. . :TU:

 

Over hang.

Hey rob, Take a hack saw and cut about two feet back from the rear bumper........ :laugh: :laugh:

You got too much over hang there...... Hell the rear tire in the picture is squatting hard from all that over hung weight...... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


Billy.

 

Called it in for the night. Working on her since 8am this morning. Im currently hung up on the distributor cap, the screws will not go down so I can lock the cap on the distributor. I got one of them to do it but the other won't. Yet if I remove the cap I can turn the screws and make them spring down. Also which plug wires go where and in what order in the distributor cap?

 

Thanks for the Clarification Adam and Jason.

But back to the distributor cap, the one side won't go down. Any trick? I'm so close I can hear it! :laugh: I just need to sort the distributor out. Also, I have the engine at 4* before TDC according to the balancer. I should drop the distributor down with the rotor pointing the the number one plug wire? Number one cylinder is on driver's side? Does it matter if the pcv valve is hooked up to the carb or not? Thanks :TU:

 

Ok.

But the pcv valve will not fit into the grommet, both are new. Which end of the pcv valve goes in the engine, the smaller side? o No:

 

Rob check your pms ....

 

In the old days there used to be a burbon called 1843 which made the first four numbers easy to remember. All you needed to memorize then was sixty five, retirement age and 72 the year of my car. Associate man! :Brow: As for firing order I think the Fords are different but since they number the cylinders different its hard to tell.

Dave B

 

I'm off to crank her over, crank over the wonderful 455! :grin: :3gears: :bglasses: :Brow: :TU:

 

Great pictures, thanks for the tips. I have a feeling I will be doing the same on my 1970 Electra this June.

 

She cranks over. Sounds like the engine is cranking too fast. Fixed two leaks, one at the thermostat and one at the fuel line where it meets the carb. It sounds like it's about to catch but only 1 cylinder might catch. I have no clue where to go from here. All I know is im tired of pushin that car in and out of the garage. Now I have to go to work.

 

Fuel, spark, timing? Spark plugs new/old? How's timing? With the vacumm advance closed: should be around 4 degrees. Check the voltage at the distributor, with the resitance wire on I guess it's around 9 volts? How are the points? If they look bad, file them a bit. Same with the contacts inside the distributor cap and rotor. I guess you have fuel since you saw it leaking there. Is the carb squirting when you pull on the throttle? Just stick your nose down it and take a look while you pull the linkage.

 

Everything is new. I'm pretty sure its the points but have zero training in how to adjust them. Timing is at 0* to start off with but will be adjusted to 4* after its running. There is fuel squirting from the carb, but its not the best fuel....old. If it stays nice tomorrow I will have it towed to work so my boss and I can sort out and adjust everything in the engine.