If the OP decides to go Big Block Buick, it is a much easier swap than an LS. Almost everything is reusable. All you need to do is swap frame mounts and tweak the exhaust. Maybe change the adjuster on the alternator but all the wires and accessories match up nicely.
I’m on the hunt this week. If I find one I can just get that one rebuilt, then do a lil swap out. I appreciate it!
I would love to be able to do it at my place. However, I don’t have a single flat spot anywhere in my front yard, it’s all gently slopping so I gotta take it to a shop.
Yes long term I’m definitely going to rebuild. Looking now for motors, problem is I drive a Prius and now sure how I would haul it, I could rent a truck I guess. I just have some logistical hurdles I would need to jump thru in order to get one a few miles out.
Uhauls aren't bad. They have a van and a pickup that are $19.95 a day and $0.69 a mile locally. If you have go 100 miles, you are looking at $50-60 for a day trip including gasoline. Loading a fully assembled engine will be challenging but maybe whoever you buy it from has a hoist. I assume you will need one at home to swap engines.
Surely there’s someone in your area who has pulled a running 350 from a Skylark, LeSabre or even a Century/Regal (likely in order to install an ls!) and wants it gone cheap. Worst case scenario you rent a truck and have to get creative loading it; you’ll still be miles ahead. Patrick
I actually found one this AM, someone did just that haha, gonna check it out on Monday! Might just get that one built while my other one is outta commission, then just swap over my intake manifold. Then I will be able to have my original motor on back up to rebuild as well. So far progress has begun!
If a leakdown test comes back good just swap in the usable engine and get back on the road while you do your rebuild. Jim
I went through that same question about five years ago. I just couldn’t bring myself to go with the LS even though it would have been the more practical and sensible option. It’s just not as cool dang it! I rebuilt a used 350 that I sought complete off Craigslist for $200.00. That way I was able to keep driving mine while the rebuild took place, I understand you don’t have that option. I have about $10,500 in my rebuild but I did everything top notch. Custom JE pistons, balanced, blueprinted, heads ported, aluminum intake, new torque converter, etc. etc. runs great and I’m happy with my decision. Could have thrown a junkyard LS in and probably had greater reliability and power for the same or less money but it wouldn’t be the same car.
When you go to look at the engine, if you take a spark plug wrench and a leak down tester (Harbor Freight sells inexpensive ones) you can run a leakdown test before buying it. A portable air tank or even a 1lb propane tank will serve the purpose for an air source if he doesn't have a compressor. Maybe a ratchet wrench to turn the crank. That will tell you if you are buying a usable engine or a boat anchor. Jim
I think I rebuilt mine for less than $1,500 if you don't count the headers, getting them coated and the aluminum intake. All the internals at 91K were still standard. Machine work and new rod bolts, cam, lifters, bearings, rings, gaskets, seals and plugs were not much more than any other engine.
10 grand or so is pretty good to get the 350 rebuilt I spent 8 in 94 and I did everything and then some This year makes 30 years on that build and the new cam made it faster than ever I had to replace the shafts on my roller rockers and ALL the bearings in the rockers so that part did wear out the shafts got grooved. The old bearings had the rollers separated more than the new bearings did so look for this if you have the old roller rockers from the 90's
I agree with Patricks suggestion of putting another 350 in it. Im in Houston and there is a fairly fresh one with a trans. for about 2k - much cheaper than messing with a LS. Spraying the motor with a 75 or 100 kit will probably get you where you want to go. I have a 350 in mine and may go that route. It will be less expensive and less of a hassle than turning it into a half breed.
Thanks everyone for the input. Car goes to the shop next week for the rebuild. Any suggestions/mods I should have them do while it’s apart? I already have a TA 112 cam (might upgrade to the 212), TA intake manifold, I also have a 200r4 (extreme automatics) and it shifts at like 5300k rpm. Want to make sure I’m not causing an harm after install. Would I want to post the oil passages to be larger?
ONLY if they’re familiar with doing that mod. If your not going to be winging the engine to 6/7000 rpm, your fine leaving the passages stock. More important, make sure they know the stock Buick 350 rod and main clearances and ADHERE to the specs, not default to Chevy small block clearances. Also use TA’s back grooved cam bearings, and make sure the shop follows TA’s instructions on proper oil hole orientation.
As long as you are using the big oil pickup and the oil passages are at least 1/2" you should be good. There's plenty of meat to go up to 1/2" and its a cheap, easy thing to get good oil pressure and volume. This is the size that was on my 71 engine. Oil passage was smaller at 7/16", too. This is the larger one that you should use. TA sells them new as well as other places. Same as late model V6.
I will order those back grooved bearings for sure and will def go over specs with them, I have manual on the car so I can give them the info’s
Sounds like a plan! Politely hand them the specs, SOME machinist and skilled trade guys in general might take offense thinking you don’t trust them or think they don’t know what their doing, but if they’re a GOOD machine shop, they should welcome the customer that’s knows what they want. On the cam bearings, in a nutshell, you DO NOT line up the oil feed holes. If they do it this way, it’s wrong, and no better than stock.
