Original Parts Group Zbar bell crank reproduction

Does anyone have any experience with the Original Parts Group Zbar bell crank reproduction? I'm interested in getting a spare for my 1970 Big Block Buick GS. Is this really correct for the BBB?

 

I've got one that's like new I'm planning on selling if you're interested. Installed and used for mockup only. Has a new pivot ball with the plastic bushings and retaining clip installed as well. Pm me of you're interested, I'm going to post it soon but I'll give ya first crack if you want.

 

Thank you Jason! That was the info that I needed.

Do you recall the clutch fork that "dentboy" was using with this zbar? Besides your basement is there anywhere to get an original or original style Big Block Buick clutch fork (1237118)?

 

You may need to change the ball stud in the block since the ID of the last OPG bell crank I saw didn't have the bigger end for a factory BBB ball stud.

BBB Clutch fork is best bet if you can find one, be ready to pay for it.

Cheers!

 

I have the ball that I used with an opgi crank as well as what I believe to be a factory one. I'll measure them both in the next day or 2 and report the findings.

 

Any of u guys reinforce the "corners" with angle bracing?

 

I considered doing something like that (when in doubt make it stout!!) but never got that far before installing a hydraulic throwout setup.

 

The clutch pedal will go fubar far sooner. The OEM pedals are real garbage.

 

I used my small block clutch fork. Works fine with no problems.

 

This repro zbar does use a smaller diameter engine-side zbar stud that's still available, GM part number 3866568. . This stud has the same diameter as the frame-side zbar stud, and comes with a built-in rubber gasket for keeping foreign material out of the zbar itself.

The lever arm is too narrow to drill for the bushing according to Russ at 4 Speed Conversions . . WIthout the bushing the factory clutch rod either need to be shortened or many washers need to be used to take up the slack resulting from no bushing.

 

I blue printed an OEM factory BBB bell crank and fork, A Kleiner, TPP and OPGI for comparison sake.

Without getting into too much detail, my recommendation is to go with OEM or convert to hydraulic. Quality control does not appear to be consistent and geometry of these parts is critical for as "trouble free" of a clutch one can really get.

Kleiners z bar is the closest to OEM and best quality as it relates to the materials, dimensions, correct ball stud size and the provision for the upper rod bushing. He also modifies a GM fork and the others don't offer a BBB fork.

Again, watch the geometry of Any repop clutch parts.

 

So, are you saying you would use Kleiner's stuff? I have failed at finding OEM and I search parts for a living all day.....

 

Kleiners is most correct repro.

I don't see anything mechanically wrong with the parts place z bar, but I think the provision for the upper bushing is something they should do. I did it to the one I am selling.

 

Sold, thanks John.

 

Thank you Marko:TU:

 

So how does one find Mr. Kleiner, and or the z bar and fork that he made? Pretty please and thanks!

 

Better check to see if the glitch in some of Kleiner's repro 4 speed parts was ever addressed. I think Ted and some others have referenced the issue.