Oil Pressure Too high. Correct Oil Pressure/Spring/Gauge line/Location

Hey everyone,

1970 455, stage 1 w/ stroker kit.

I've been getting excessive oil pressure at about 70lbs at idle on startup. Once warm it drops only slightly. I called TA and ordered new oil pump springs and an adjustable oil pressure regulator.

This ... http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1502

I originally had a yellow spring in the pump but replaced it with TA's black (Stock I believe) spring. After doing that I'm still at around 45lbs at idle once the car is warm. The adjustable oil pressure regulator is backed out fully.

I'm using VR1 20w-50 oil.

I think that's still too high and don't want it causing excess wear on the cam gear and causing other issues.

I'm thinking of switching to the red spring which I believe is 40lbs?

Autometer mechanical gauge, I have the line running off the front of the block into a 90* up a fuel braided line to the gauge. I don't think that would cause any issue but I've been wrong, many... many times before.



It seems very odd that the pressure is that high even after swapping springs so I'm concerned about other issues. Any comments/suggestions?

 

Drain oil, replace filter, try 10-w30 and post the pressures you have.

Cold pressure at idle
Cold pressure moderate cruise (2000-2500 RPM)
Warm pressure idle
Warm pressure moderate cruise (2000-2500 RPM)

 

70 psi cold is perfect, but you are using 20/50 oil so that’s kinda thick.
Try 10/30 like was suggested, pressure should come down, but you can’t judge oil pressure without being able to drive it. The coolant is just warm, and the oil will still be cool.
Engine load is what heats up the oil, that won’t happen with just the engine idling.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I'll change the oil and report back. Any brand in particular you prefer?

No windshield in the car yet so driving on the highway will be challenging.

 

Good quality oil that contains ZDDP. (Rotella, Valvoline VR1, and similar are also good)
I use Driven HR2 (non-synth, and WIX/NAPA Gold filters 51258/1258)

 

Or even 5W30 like I use.

 

I like Mobile 1, but it seems there are many good choices. Personal preference really.

 

I have a very similar issue with my 400 and the TA oil pump setup. Was 80 at cold start and 45 at hot idle with 20W50. Changed to 10W30 and it only dropped about 5 psi on both. Called TA and they advised me to change to the orange spring in the pump regulator. Apparently it was set up with the green or yellow one in it.

Been dealing with other issues and have not been able to swap out the springs yet.

 

Whoa.. back the bus up here..

Springs.. there are two different sets of springs, for the two different oil filter housings. The long springs (natural or black, and the white Stage 1 spring) go in the 455 housing.. id that by the big nut pointing straight forward.

The shorter orange and yellow springs are for the V-6/350 housing that you have, and that TA has been selling and building pump assemblies with for some time now.

They are NOT interchangable.

Put the short orange spring behind your adjustable regulator, and 10-30 in the engine, and report back.

This is a very common mistake. About once a year I get a call from my dyno shop, when they are dynoing a 455 built elsewhere.. complaint is 150 lbs of oil pressure on the check out pull. I used to tell them to cut 3 coils off the long spring that someone jambed in a 350 oil pump cover, but now I just leave a short orange spring there for them to install.

If your grunting like a gorrilla to get that nut started.. something is wrong..

JW

 

That is exactly what TA told me Jim!

 

On top of all that good info if you are not running the car for a half hour or more at idle you really are not "warmed up". You really need to drive it for 20 minutes for a thorough warm up.

 

I wouldn't use Mobil 1....no zinc.

 

Mobil 1 15w50 has a nominal Zinc level of 1300 ppm. Lower weights are in the 800s.

 

1/2 hour or more idling is excessive. A few minutes of running, then easy driving for the first 10 minutes is sufficient.
Metal components heat rapidly and conduction aids in that (compared to the oil) and are sufficiently heated to deal with clearance issues of disparate metal in temperature flux, within the short drive.

Correct oil weight for temps is most important, and second is easing the vehicle into the first 10 minutes.

 

Certainly if this is a new build. He said he can't really drive it because of no windshield and just driving slowly for a few minutes really doesn't do the trick for thorough heat-up. Bring it up to 1500-2000 for about 10-15 minutes just like a cam break-in. Then you'll know what oil pressure you really have.

 

Ahh, gotcha. Specific to the OP.

 

Alright, I'm back and happy to report that I changed the oil to Valvoline 10w-30 and put in the orange spring then I got my windshield installed and was able to drive it around. 20psi at idle once warm. Seems good to me!

Seriously couldn't have done most of the work on the car without this forum. Appreciate all the help!

 

Awesome!

Did you have to do any adjustment to the regulator with the orange spring? I still have to do that in the 400.