1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

No Hop Bars

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by LARRY70GS, Aug 21, 2005.

Page 3 of 4
  1. Topless64-455

    Topless64-455 Well-Known Member

    you can see where it hit
     

    Attached Files:

    Topless64-455, Sep 30, 2005
    #41
  2. Topless64-455

    Topless64-455 Well-Known Member

    the webbing grind you can see the small rust mark
     

    Attached Files:

    Topless64-455, Sep 30, 2005
    #42
  3. 70aqua_custom

    70aqua_custom Well-Known Member

    Larry, What ever happened with the no-hop bars? My car has a serious hop problem and I need to do something. I've kind of been waiting to see how your deal worked out because I don't want any aggravation when I go to install them on my car. I have a 12 bolt posi from a 69 Chevy so I'm not sure how much different my center section if from yours.
     
    70aqua_custom, Nov 10, 2005
    #43
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Andy,
    I couldn't get them to fit, no way, no how. I contacted Edelbrock, and they basically denied it was a design problem. They said that there was something wrong with my rear webbing. They did however give me permission to return them to the point of purchase (Sumitt), which I did, getting a full refund. The left fit with no problem, the right, no way, and we really ground on it. I'm probably better off without them, I managed a 1.84 60' with just the MT ET street Drag radials and air bags. That's good enough for me.
     
    LARRY70GS, Nov 10, 2005
    #44
  5. D-Con

    D-Con Kills Rats and Mice

    Andy, replace all of your bushings and make sure the shocks are in good shape. The wheel-hop should go away with just that.
     
    D-Con, Nov 10, 2005
    #45
  6. 70aqua_custom

    70aqua_custom Well-Known Member

    Adam, Thanks for the advice but there's a couple of things about my car you don't know. The all the bushings are new and so are the shocks. The bushings are polygraphite. Do you think that may be part of the problem? I also raised the rear ride height with spacers on top of the springs which obviously changes the angle of the upper arms in the opposite direction than the no-hop bars do. I measured 27 inches from the ground through the center of the rear axle up to the rear wheel arch molding. The assembly manual says 23.02 for shylarks and 24.32 for the GS so it's up there 3 or 4 inches from stock.
     
    70aqua_custom, Nov 10, 2005
    #46
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Well, put the TA Performance No-Hop Bars on today. What a difference in fit. They went right on, not like the Edelbrocks (which I returned)
     
    LARRY70GS, Jul 8, 2006
    #47
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    While I was at it, I installed the HR PartsnStuff Rear anti sway bar. Didn't get much of a chance to test. Soon
     
    LARRY70GS, Jul 8, 2006
    #48
  9. bobc455

    bobc455 Well-Known Member

    Nice, Larry-

    Let us know what happens on the track (or street)!

    -Bob C.
     
    bobc455, Jul 9, 2006
    #49
  10. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    Larry, you dog you. :laugh: That's the rear sway bar I want as well (trick). How hard was the install? Also, why the no-hops with the rear sway bar? Thought the HR Parts bar worked great on it's own, with maybe the only addition being an air bag.
     
    gusszgs, Jul 9, 2006
    #50
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    The No-Hops change the instant center, so the tires hit harder. The HR bar has handling and traction benefits, and supposedly you don't need airbags with it. I had the No Hop bars all ready to go in when I got a good deal on a used HR Parts bar from a friend of mine. Seemed like the thing to do, install them both. :laugh: The HR bar is an easy install. Just some measuring and drilling 4 holes in the rear crossmember.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jul 9, 2006
    #51
  12. BillMah52

    BillMah52 Well-Known Member

    Larry,
    Now that you are crossing the street car/track car line it may pay to have Rob C. check the rear internals. Play it safe because you just increased the "hammer" by about 1/3. :Smarty:

    But you already knew that Mr. Wizzer!
     
    BillMah52, Jul 9, 2006
    #52
  13. skyphix

    skyphix Well-Known Member

    What kind of difference do the No-Hop bars make on the street? It looks like they'd increase the NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) of the car?

    IT looks to me like they limit the travel of the rear axle, or am I seeing them wrong?
     
    skyphix, Jul 9, 2006
    #53
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Already did. When the heads were put on, I had Rob pull the rear cover, have a look around, and refill with Amsoil synthetic :TU: Everything was looking good. If the 8.2 goes, it goes. I'll replace it with an 8.5. I might do that anyway.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jul 10, 2006
    #54
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    They change the instant center. I haven't noticed any change in ride at all. The handling has improved quite a bit from the rear bar. So far so good. The no-Hop bars will make the chassis try to push the rear end downward planting the tires better.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jul 10, 2006
    #55
  16. skyphix

    skyphix Well-Known Member

    Thanks Larry,
    Not 100% sure what direction Im going to be going with my suspension so I figured I'd ask.
     
    skyphix, Jul 10, 2006
    #56
  17. BillMah52

    BillMah52 Well-Known Member

    When it does go (just a matter of time) I have a nice 12 bolt with 411's ready to put the rubber to the pavement. :Brow:
     
    BillMah52, Jul 10, 2006
    #57
  18. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    4.11 are drag racing gears, gota stick with my 3.42's or even 3.55's Don't the 12 bolts use c clips? Think I'd rather have a good 8.5
     
    LARRY70GS, Jul 10, 2006
    #58
  19. Paul Massicotte

    Paul Massicotte **

    Larry,

    I'm going to do these this week along with the lower arms I got from Dominic @ Marcus, how did you set up your pinion angle?
     
    Paul Massicotte, Jul 10, 2006
    #59
  20. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Never checked the pinion angle Paul. Next time I drop the driveshaft, I will. Don't think it is that critical for my power level. The No-Hop bars shouldn't change the angle enough to matter.
     
    LARRY70GS, Jul 10, 2006
    #60
Page 3 of 4

Share This Page