No Hop Bars

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by LARRY70GS, Aug 21, 2005.

  1. bobc455

    bobc455 Well-Known Member

    Isn't that a metal-to-metal fit? Is it very snug, or do you need to do something to make sure there is not slop in there?

    -Bob Cunningham
     
  2. RED GS 1

    RED GS 1 Well-Known Member

    Larry,
    If and when your ready, you are welcome to do the job at my house with the use of my shop equipment, compressor, air tools, jacks and tools just give me a holler. :TU:
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Thanks Kenny,
    Think I'm going up to Readers Digest if I can. But I'll keep you in mind for future projects :TU: :beer :cool:
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Kev,
    Between the lift, and the special tool, it shouldn't be a problem. I'm not droppin the rear out, no way :Smarty: :laugh:
     
  5. nickwhite

    nickwhite Platinum Level Contributor

  6. Nitro71455

    Nitro71455 Procharged 455 boost baby

    :grin:

    Thats funny,

    Elderbrock makes a nice No Hop for Abody's (using a set on my GS with thier adjustable upper control arms (very nice pieces as well).

    I know you don't want to, but I think you would find it easier to remove the rearend (your only talking about 15 miniutes of extra work by the time your to the point the no hops could be installed (time well spent).

    I have a lift and I pulled my rear out just to give me more breathing room, With the rear removed, you have more room to get the old bushings out, grind the clearence the rear where you have too, and drill your holes... All in all with a lift, pulling my rear I was up and running in about 3 hours start to finish.

    --Rich
     
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Rich,
    I had no problem getting the bushings out (especially with the special tool) My problem came when I tried to install the right bar. The shape of the right bar(where it goes around the web) was completely different from the left bar. I had the left bar installed in 1/2 hour. The right bar, I spent 3 hours on, and even when I grinded it, It would not go around the web. Maybe the part was wrong, I don't know, I'll have to call Edelbrock. I'm going to post some pictures of the bars. Maybe someone can see something.

    BTW, It wouldn't surprise me one bit if I had the wrong right side arm. I ordered a vacuum gauge for my car from Summitt, and T-3 repro headlights also (from Lectric Ltd.) The vacuum gage arrived with the needle reading 3", and one of the T-3's were blown (I could hear the filament when I shook the bulb). It really makes me wonder about the American work ethic in this country. Does anyone check, and do their jobs with any pride anymore :Do No: ? Just venting guys :laugh:
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK, here we go. You know, I was so disgusted after trying to put these bars on, that I just threw them back in the box, and didn't look any further. I definitely need to call Edelbrock. Look at the right bar. I would have had to grind the center section completely away for the bar to fit around the web. Even the shape of the bar down where it bolts to the pumpkin ears is different. Wrong Part? It would be a hat trick, things happen in 3's right. 3 bad parts, vacuum gauge, headlight, and traction bar. :laugh:
     
  9. BillMah52

    BillMah52 Well-Known Member

    Yup! Ya got a split set there. Methinks that one isn't even a GM app.
     
  10. Harold Rolls

    Harold Rolls Well-Known Member

    No hop bars.

    It looks like two different parts to me. The fingers on the bars are to fit the webbing, and mine fit great when loose assembled. This allowed the hole to be drilled up from the bottom, before everthing was tightened. Mine were from Moroso, and are at least a dozen years old. It sure was not your day with your Summit order. If there was not 2 kinds of luck, you would not have any. :)
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Just E-mailed Edelbrock with the picture. I'll try them on the phone tomorrow. Yes it's got to be a Hatrick. Got the new vacuum gauge, waitin on the headlight, and hopefully Edelbrock does the right thing.
     
  12. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    The Mystery deepens. This is a picture from the Sumitt Racing catalog. The bar shapes seem to be correct. Curious to see what Edelbrock says.
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK, e-mailed Edelbrock, and got this reply:

    Dear Larry,



    After speaking with several senior members of the tech department, I have been informed that there are several factors that are going in to your no hop bars not fitting. There might have been a core shift in your rear end or there could be some miss alignment in the webbing. If you would like to return them please have the point of purchase contact us for a RMA number or you can send them back to us and we will give you credit for them.



    Chris Wiesinger

    Edelbrock Corporation Tech Department


    Core shift in my rear end? :Do No: Misalignment of the webbing? In any case, I called Summit this morning, and they instructed me to send them back for a full refund. Maybe I'll try another manufacturer. I noticed TA Performance sells these, for 50.00 more, but maybe it's worth it if they fit.
     
  14. gsgns4me

    gsgns4me Well-Known Member

    Larry, I had to grind the webbing on my driver's side. I think I had to do some grinding on both sides of the axle, and both bars. My car has a 12 bolt rear end, if that makes any difference. I didn't remember these details until you posted about your problems on installation.

    Driver's side
     

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  15. gsgns4me

    gsgns4me Well-Known Member

    Passenger side
     

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  16. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Dwayne,
    Thanks for the pictures. No amount of grinding would have helped in my case. I had several guys look at it over the course of 3 hours. The left went on no problem. I felt like this would be an easy job. Then the right arm. The part where it went around the web was so different. If it was just shaped the same, I would have had no problem. Don't understand. Maybe this problem is just with the Edelbrock arms. Maybe I'll try another brand.
     
  17. goodguy34

    goodguy34 Buickaholic

    Has anyone tried the TA traction bars?
     
  18. 1979SHX

    1979SHX derevaun seraun

    I've got a good used set of these bars for sale if anyone is interested. Do not know the manufacturer. Were mounted on a '69 GTO 10-bolt.
     
  19. 73-462GS

    73-462GS GS Mike

    Larry I don't thik the "other brand" will be any better. I have one of the "other brands" and they fit so badly that I thought about not using them at all. I was so dissappointed about the poor fit. I worked on them for several hours and finally got the right side to fit. The left side was a piece of cake. My other brand was "Lakewood." If I had it to do over I would go with adjustable uppers and boxed lowers. I run the car on the street and it still wheel hops some. Mike D.
     
  20. Topless64-455

    Topless64-455 Well-Known Member

    larry these are TA bars I installed

    They required a little grinding but this is a 66 12 bolt rear end. I had to grind a little on the top left arm on the right side looking at the pic. (drivers side) and a little of the middle web.
     

    Attached Files:

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