11s with a little work holy s@#$ i need to get rid of my 2.56 open and see what happens cause it sounds like gears and a cheapy cheater nos sytem is about all youve done different than me so far go 350s
Yes I've got a 750 on the car right now. I will make 2 passes on motor to see how it runs that way. I'm mostly concerned with spray passes though. I have probably made an honest 50 different changes to the car, wiring, suspension, tire combo, minor weight difference, fuel system changes, ignition. I have 3 rear tire combos to try. My drag radials again 275/60 BFGs on stock Buick ralleys 7" rim, 28x10.50ET drags on 10" Greg welds, 28x9 ET drags on steel 8" rims. Some of the stuff I've done is easy and quick to do others are time consuming and being a mechanic and just sliding the car into work at the end of the day makes alot of this stuff easy to accomplish, I also have a 1500 sq/ft garage to work in. Now the biggest thing that is going to hold this car back really is the factory exhaust manifolds.... If I can get the car up to 5500rpm through the traps. I know I'll have the ET I'm looking for. Now we just have to hope for NO RAIN!!!! We just got rained ou at Atco on 11/7....and its looking like rain in the long off forecast so far. If that happens I'll be at the Buick day instead.
I had my phone set to alarm tonight so I would remember to check your results.... Can not wait to hear how quick you can run with stock cam, bottom end and even manifolds!!!!
I just found a replacement Cheater nitrous solinoid also, so that should get here before next weekend....that will allow me to spray it REALLY HARD!
You might consider a set of Air-lift bags. You can put one inside the pass side rear spring and adjust the air pressure to help hook on the launch. The last time I bought some they were around $70 for a pair. Make sure you plumb them so you can adjust air pressure on each side separately. Try unhooking the front sway bar. Free Try backing off the drag on the front drum brakes. Free, if you have drums. You can also 'pre-load' the suspension by adding a longer link on the front swap bar. On one side to help plant the rear tire. The Gil Younger shift kits(find them at transmission parts/supply houses) come with different valve body springs and springs to tune the govenor, so your transmission will upshift when you want it too. If you can plumb nitrous and not scatter the motor by paying attention to timing, you can put in the shift kit. Use petroleum jelly or buy a tub of trans-gel assembly lube when you buy the shift kit. Shift kit was like $50-ish(*its been a while). Plus maybe some type-F trans fluid and a new filter too, while you're at it. Stop at the local home improvement warehouse Lowe's, Home Depot, etc and pick up a masonary tub for less than $10. Its large enough to drain your transmission in and works great for parts or cleaning or whatever.
Thanks for the suggestions Bar50. I've got air bags in the car now with individual valves, to tune with at the track. Got drag shocks in it set firm currently, but will be adjusted as necessary. I may disconnect the sway bar at the track and remove it. The tranny has a nice shift kit in it currently shifts nice and firm with no slip, it does upshift alittle low on the nitrous, but I"m ok with that, I can manually shift it if I choose. The car doesn't spin the slicks at all. Only on the drag radials does it spin out of the hole some. There are 2 big things holding this car back.....first off the stock torque is killing the car...stalls at 1100rpm, then the stock exhaust manifolds! Weather is looking good for Monday so I'm packing the truck and the car tomorrow.
I have a nice set of headers already, but as Sean has let the cat out of the bag. I am switching over to a 455 this winter, unfortunatly I got to far in with my 455 before learning about the strength of a 350 being so much more. If I'd known this sooner I would have built a turbo SBB, either through Mark or my own setup. I've been enjoying this 350 though more then I ever imagined possible. it hasn't skipped a beat for me. I'd encourage others to push there 350s harder before switching over to the 455, after what I've put this poor motor through and seeing the potential. Things are looking up for the SBB. If a set of aluminum heads ever become available for this motor, I think you will see some trully stout motors get built. Until then the heads will be the limiting factor for the motor. And will probably discourage alot of potential owners from building small blocks.
You already have a set of headers? I do not understand why you'd want to make these runs with manifolds. Installing headers is not hard at all.:spank:
fallacy; current heads do not slow the 350 down. they just need to be ported. the only thing that slows the 350 is the dual plane intake. anybody that has tried a single plane can attest to the fact that you just woke up the motor. dual basically runs out at 6000, single will go 7500 with ease.:TU: more block work, like what i will be doing, will bring you into the 11's with no additives. right now the s/p is what's really needed so you can learn the 350 and then when the new heads come out, you will ready. forgot to mention 2'' headers. small headers suck.
Quick update. The car went 12.40 at 108 yanking the left front wheel!!!! Then upon adding more power it started blowing the tires away.....4 bottles of nitrous and 20-30 passes. I'll give a full run down tomorrow nite. been a long day.
