So $300 for the job, right? Not job and shaft... I've found cam shafts on summit for about $150, is that resonable for a decent after market cam?
call mike at ta perf for a cam summit is crap they dont know s$$t about our cars. Mike will set you up with what you need.
What do you guys think about the 350 Manifold 4 bbl Conversion Power Pack from TA Perf? It seems like a good deal to me. The carb is Edelbrock so I assume it's quality?
Is that with the 650 carb? If so you will be disappointed, go with a 750 cfm or larger carb. There is nothing wrong with a stock Q jet it will support 400 hp 350.
really?, i was jacked.. cause over the phone(bad mem) he either quoted 400 or 500 to do it all.. onlything i reused in the heads where the stock valves..heads were shaved a bit to gain some compression
Before just throwing a cam in the car, think about your future goals and pick a combination. Changing individual parts, then winding up with a mismatched combination will hurt performance a lot more than helping you. You most likely have 2.56 gears or thereabouts, a cam swap will move your powerband up in the rpm range making the car even more of a dog down low. I always start at the back of the car and work my way forward. A gear swap will make the car feel completely different, 3.23s are my choice for a mostly street car with occasional track time. I have been running a used posi from monzaz in my car for 2 seasons plus street miles already, get a hold of him and price out gears and a posi unit. The install will be at least $250, up to $400 depending on labor rates in your area. 3.23s will work well with most mild street builds, and highway cruise rpm will be high enough to allow for a higher stall torque converter later on.
About how much should I budget for the gears and posi, I can't find anywhere that will even quote it to begin with.
You don't need to go any further than Monzaz on this board: http://www.v8buick.com/member.php?u=3880 If you are going to build your 8.5 10 bolt (and you should) you can get an idea just by looking in Jegs or Sumitt catalogs. http://www.jegs.com/i/Eaton/362/19557-010/10002/-1 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60030/10002/-1 Monzaz can get you better prices I think.
On the Jegs website it says I can buy an installation kit too. How difficult would it be for a guy with intermediate mechanical experience like me to do? Or do you think I should just have a pro do it?
Yeah I guess the teeth count was just some extra information to confuse me. What do you think about 3.73 gears... My sister's boyfriend had 4.56 on his 406 '72 camaro and said it was awesome. I just want it to be the most amazing thing my car has ever done.:bglasses: And does my stock Lark have the 10 bolt cover or something else?
7.5 only came on 6 cylinder cars.. you definatly have anb 8.5 most likely a 2.56 open diff...or if you were lucky a 2.73 haha 3.73s would be the max someone might be able to stand on the highway..that's mated to a 275-60-15 for the streets and a downgarde to a 245-60 or similar for the track to get more gear i'd go atleast a 3.42 though
Re: Next Upgrade Ideas? Hey Larry & Nothingface... Hijack... I am also thinking of going with steeper gears as an upgrade. I have 27 inch of tire diameter in rear and 2200 stall. What would you wizards recommend. See my tag at bottom for other info.
If you want the best performance out of the 300 I'd go with some 4.10's. If your car would do 100 in the 1/4 this would put you at just over 5000 rpm in the traps. Even better 4.56's. On the highway it would be about the same as 2.70's with the OD and 4.1's and like 3.1's with the 4.56. The big thing is if you could get those gears for your rear. You didn't say if it was original. Where did you get the stall speed of the converter? That might be another place to look for some launch power. If that is the rated stall your actual stall might be lower. They usually rate them with a 350 engine minimum. If yours is a lockup I'd go with a 3000 "rated" unit at least and it won't make a difference on the highway. Better yet do both and you'll have a big launch factor. The only way to really tell your stall speed is to WOT launch it out off the line with good tires so you have no spin and watch the tach. At the rpm the converter is stalling to you'll actually see the tach stop accelerating for a split second. You can usually see it happen. That's your actual flash stall.
Thanks Mike, I believe the diff is the original. Here is a pic before restoration. Someone told me this ratio (3.23) maybe highest I can go without changing carrier.o No: Re stall speed. The converter came with the trani when I bought it. It was purple? I had foot on brake and kept depressing accelerator pedal until rpm stopped increasing. 2200 rpm. Not sure if this correct way but was told it was a way to determine stall. I want good street manors.
i' also recommend a 4.10(3.73s will still be good) since you have the 200r4, as for stall something in the 2600/2800 range
