Jay! I have the gear you sent. Thanks. UPDATE: Looks like my block is going to become a boat anchor. 2 unsuccesfull attempts to weld, they will attempt one more time but doubt that they will succeed. Anyone in southern Ontario have a 300 CI block for cheap?
Hi Michel, sorry to hear about your luck, is you engine builder going to cough up the coin for another block? Thanks Bruce
I hope more than just the block, he owes you thousands for your time and effort dropping in and then removing the engine!:spank:
Those are my expectations ;no charge. My wallet is closed for business!!! Sean, I have a friend who is with the alliance church, you and he are both very persistent!!!(you with your 350's and him with his church) I laughed today, my builders new counter guy ventured out on a branch to say that my block probably had that defect there for a while. When I was done he responded with "I guess I was speaking out of context, please let me remove my foot from my mouth". I have the sense they plan on making it right. I posted another thread on trani section. When they rebuilt my trani the TC I got back is a run of the mill lock up and not the high stall D5 that was in my trani to start with. The guy was good and said to bring the TC back he has a D5 to give me.
Hi Michel, I have a 67 340/2bbl, I'm pulling from my 67 LeSabre, I put 2000 miles on it last year. I'm replacing it with a 70 350/4bbl A 64 300/2bbl, in my parts car, can be heard running if you want. (aluminum heads and intake) A 68 350/2bbl, ran when I pulled it 2 years ago, it's sitting in the barn covered up. A 73 350/2bbl, still in the car and can be heard running. $350 ea. pick up only. take care Bruce
Thank you very much. I appreciate the fact that I have options. At least this way my builder can move quickly to resolve the issue as we have removed finding a block as a barrier.
Sorry that happened, I bet the engine builder feels real good now. Hope you can find a 300 motor, you have a lot of parts for the 300 already. But I think a 350 is a great idea also. :grin:
Good news (I think)...block repaired, not pretty but no more hole. On another note. What do you guys think about this cam bearing? All bearings were to be replaced. I am told that heating the block in the big oven caused discoloration and that the black spots are probably oil/lube that stained the surface. Some marking on bearing surface. Cam removal? Normal? o No:
make the guy that messed it up put all new cam bearings in it dont chance it with all the headache youve had with it.
Ohhhh my little buddies.....we are going to be able to write a book about this one!!! Engine in on weekend. Never made it through the cam break in process, developed, what sounds like a top end noise driver's side closest to firewall. I called my guy, told him he needs to be doing a house call. Let me get my day organized and I will call you back. Never did. My brother has a relationship with him so he called. "He's busy with a customer" Oh, tell him it's Michel's brother. "Sorry I went to talk to him, he is busy". So, one last attempt tomorrow to get this sorted out. Then I give him options. a) fix it. fix it fast and fix it right. b) You keep the engine and give me my money back. c) I will get it fixed else where and you can pay for it d) If you disagree with the above options I will get it fixed elsewhere and I will see you in court. Also re the cam bearings. I phoned a couple of bearing companies who do automotive and talked to their tech people. Stock bearings are only good to 350 degrees, performance 450. Then I called the welding CO who did my block. "This is what we do, we do lots of commercial repairs to cast. It's a cold weld process, no engine goes into any oven. However I would have changed those bearings as their could have been metal fillings pilled behind them". So the discolouring is probably from the hot tank process. I think I will remove the VC to check if I dont's have a bad rocker or broken spring. Before I started down this road, someone told me, hey, your car is running OK, leave it alone! Words of wisdom that echo in my head! And the there was grand ma, "Bad things come in three's ya know!"
you might try to find someone on the board that is near you that has a reputable buick shop or/and give you a hand looking things over a bit. are you positive all the torque convertor bolts are tight? is the engine missing?
I do not think the engine is missing, however it will not idle. The minute it gets below 600 rpm it just dies....will X2 check the wires again. I will also check the TC bolts just in case. Took off the VC all looks good. It ran pretty hot at start up. I shut it down at 220. Topped up the coolant. Ran it again but never got to see if it was overheating. Had brother on phone, he just said shut it down, don't rev it till you figure out what is going on.
Why are you trying to idle it below 600 rpm? 700 rpm in gear (or even 750 depending on cam) is perfect. I wouldn't be surprised that it shuts off below 600rpm. Did you do the "Power Timing" outlined in the sticky?
