Max HP on a Buick 455 Block

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by BP_Motorworks, Sep 17, 2003.

  1. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    I dont know about 1/8th mile tracks, but NHRA rules for 1/4 mile tracks in a CONVERTIBLE are

    13.99 > 12.00 = 6 pt roll bar
    11.99 and quicker needs a full cage similar to a hardtop going < 10.00
    Dryskip may be onto your "Mystery" - with figuring torque ....as HP is calculated from torque, and if nothing else (besides EXPEN$IVE) our motors are torque-monsters

    What kind of rear end mods do you plan on to get all that power moving the car ?? How do you plan on lightening a convertable down so low ??

    Lastly.....how "streetable" do you plan on ?? I think Rick and Doug and John M. would all agree while they could slap a plate on their car and call it streetable, its more of a joke thinking so than anything else. Everyones' definition of "Streetable" is different though - mine is......Fill up the tank at any gas station, be able to travel on the highway without the Tack spinning like a pinwheel, AND be able to get stuck in a traffic jam without a nuclear meltdown - but those are my standards :grin:

    Good Luck on the project - its sounds very interesting as I LOVE fast DropTops
     
  2. 9secStage1

    9secStage1 Worlds Fastest GS Stage 1

    It sound like your trying to get the best of both worlds. One big, "Oh sh$t factor I forgot (thats what I get for posting past midnight) was the nitrous that you plan on using. You may be able to budget the engine somewhat to run in the tens on a light vehicle and with the spray you can then go flying:grin: . Either way beef up that bottom end. There are guys that will will show you they do not run girdles or aftermarket rods and are screaming their Buicks into the 10's. I would never knock them, but personally I sort of tense up watching these cars run. The question here is longivity. And we all know these motors are costly to build. If your bottom is strong, with a good oiling system then all is needed is visual checks a few times a year checking the bearings. Plus keep in mind try to keep the RPM's down. Doug Heckers 800+ HP engine I believe goes through the quarter in the low 7,000 range. Chevies we're not and unfortunately a Buick does not have the durability of a Chevy and also the cheaper costs. But we do have gobs of torgue, use that as an advantage.

    As with your 1/8th and 1/4 miles figures back east we run mostly at sea level or close to sea level tracks, so I'm sure that will play a big roll in things comparing to high elevation. I don't doubt your findings, its just sometimes the math on paper doesn't always equate to the actual run where as other factors may come into play. But it is always good to be used a base line estimate when your making plans.

    Best of luck with the project.
    Rick
     
  3. BP_Motorworks

    BP_Motorworks Ragtop Racer

    Yah, I knew a 6 point cage was not enough but I don't want to kill the car's apearance so that is all I am going to do, besides there are many tracks around here that let people run without chassis certification. In fact there is one track in this area that if you brough a tricylcle out and ran a 3.90 in the eigth, they would tell you to do it again. (LOL) As far as the wieght, I AM TAKING OUT EVERYTHING THAT IS NOT NEEDED, and I have plenty of holes saws, so anywhere that I can drill an inconspicuous hole, I will. i got rid of the AC, heater, power steering, and power brakes. Don't get me wrong, this car will still look good, and have all its body parts, I just wanted to do this becuase I don't see many people who modify convertible into a real hot rod. All the body work has been done so all I am waiting on is the motor, then hopefully of the the paint shop. (The car will be painted in pieces than put together)

    As far as the rear in I put a bolt in 9 inch housing from Mosier with a spool 3.90 gear, 33 spline axels and 1/2 inch studs. I also installed a dick miller suspension kit. I have 15 x 4 inch convo pros up from with 15 x 8.5 in back with 29 x 11.5 Hoosier Quick Time Pros. I will probably get an aluminum drive shaft made. I just got a TH400 trans with a continental 3500 stall and I am making a tubular cross member. I consider the car pretty streetable since I will be able to run off pump gas. No it will probalby not go down the highway very well especially with the drag shocks and springs on it. I bough a real nice aluminum radiator so I hope I wont have any meltdowns.

    One of you guys said these Buicks are not as durable as a chevy. Are you saying that they don't last as long??? If that is true that really sucks.

    Well the bottom end of my motor is a little unusual. I got a nodular crank to start, then ground it for pontiac rods. I have a set of SCAT H beam 6.625 Pontiac rods that have been installed backwards (Yes they have oil holes on both sides) on a set of wiesco pistons with a Mopar bore (4.350) and a BB chevy wrist pin in it. (I use a Pontiac rod bearing) The advantage to all of this was that I now have a nice set of rods that were cheap (350.00) and a nice set of pistons with ring choices for days. I used the Childs and Albert ZGS rings and I feel these work the best by far. (I have seen engines with zero leakdown using these rings) As far as the BB Chevy wrist pin I was able to opt for the Nitrous pin which is .175 thick instead of .150 thick pin. The .025 longer rod pushed my piston up higher so I only had to deck the block .018 to get it at zero deck. The pistons are a deep 2 valve relief which can handle a large solid cam without the need for flycut. (They were only 550.00 for pistons and pins) I don't know how most Buick guys build their bottom end but I feel mine is pretty stout and should not cause any problems. The nitrous system is an alcohol NX Stage 6.

    I agree with Rick, on the longivity issue of an engine. I have a saying "If you are going to something to your car, do it right" I live by this when it comes to building cars. It might take me twice as long as Joe Blow next to me, but I know it will be right and I wil feel better about my car.

    Anyway, all of this is just my opinion, so please nobody get offended. (I hate those people who try to tell you how to do something, when they don't know jake themselves) If I can figure out how to get pictures post I will get some up once the motor is painted, it wil be the same color as the car will be. Any big Buick events coming up this spring, like at a race track. If I bust my butt I might have my car done by then.

    Blair Phillis

    :stmad: :stmad: :stmad:
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2003

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