I finally started my convertion on my 70 GS 455 from auto to 5 speed manual Total cost about $4500 all new parts from carpet to yoke. The trans fit great all the way threw the tunnel hump, i used the 64- 67 chevelle with consol hump. I had to order a new carpet kit agine because buick 4 speeds use automatic carpet, if you order the carpet for a 4 speed they will sell you the carpet for a chevelle, it has a large molded part and does not fit the buick tunnel with the small hump. Tomarrow im going to check the run out on my Quicktime bell houseing,after that im at work stoppage because im waiting on my flywheel, presure plate, yoke, and my pilot bushing from Dick Miller racing that fits in the tourque converton slot, they should be here next week.
Kelly, looks like a good job so far!! I'm gathering parts to do the exact swap as you're doing. My plans are to do the swap in a year or two from now. Is it possible for you to list all of the components that were successfully used in your swap and where you purchased them from? It would be a great benefit to anyone that's going to do the same conversion. I hope to get it right the first time and not have to redo, change or purchase multiple items to get it to completion. Your "list" could be a huge aid! :TU: Thanks!
The shifter handle is from Summit raceing , HUU5387236. Quicktime shatter sheild bell houseing from Summit, Rm8070. Shifter hump from YearOne, A670E look up 64-67 chevelle with console. shifter boot and ring from the Parts Place, CP9596S and CP95972. Z bar and hardware Z bar will need to be modified if a BBB with headers, i dont know if it will work with manifolds. Use pontiac pedals, rod from pedal and boot, from The Parts Place . Use a carpet kit for an automatic car, if you order a carpet for a buick 4 speed they will sell you the carpet kit for a chevelle, and it is molded for the larger hump. I order the pilot bushing from Dick Miller racing, it the one that goes in the converter slot. Fllywheel and ARP bolts from TA Performance, they have a billit steel one for $300. The rest of my parts came with my transission kit .
I hope the DMR pilot bearing works for you. Used it on a freinds olds for and M-22 swap because the crank was not drilled for a manual. The engine was rebuilt one year after the swap and the bearing seemed to look OK. Bearing was replaced with a new one anyway, and its been two summer since then, still doing good. Only downside was, we did have to take a trim off the input shaft because the crank was not deep enough to accept the shaft length. Lookin good! The best part about swaps like this is the install is always painful, and you will hate yourself in a few moments. BUT (and its a big but), the first time you shift that transmission, you will forget all about the troubles. :3gears:
Checked the bellhouseing run out,it was good at .003. .005 is the limit. Also installed the pilot bearing from dick miller racing, nice product.
what did it sound like when it started to fail? did you check the run out on your bell houseing? i would think that an uncentered trans would cause that bearing to wear out, or being damaged on instalation, thanks for the heads up, i did mic my crank and i will have a costom pilot bushing made, if it fails. Thanks
Kelly- Check the flywheel to crank bolts on the flywheel to make sure they don't protrude through the crank and possibly hit the block. I assume you may have the ARP bolts from TA with the flywheel. The thickness on the TA flywheel may be enough. It's not on a stock flywheel with ARP bolts. I'd hate to see something bad on the first start up. Looks like you're doing a great job so far.
Kelly, what type clutch are you installing? Is the quick time bell housing not as deep as a stock one?
Yes i ordered the ARP bolts from TA ---------- Post added at 08:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:00 PM ---------- i think therer the same, its that the hydro throwout bearing is about 2 1/2'' and i did not have enough clearance, the clutch is a 11'' pro touring dual friction full copper organic with segmented ceramic metalic, from Kiesler.
Finished up the install, the fork end of the Z bar i ordered from The Parts Place is for a small block car, so it has to be modified for the big block to work, so i had to weld on a a piece of flat bar with a hole punched in it,also installed a grease fitting, it seems to work great, i also installed bushings on the pedal end of the Z bar, besides that all the parts worked. I need to shorten the bolt i cut of and grinded too a point, so i can put a adjuster nut on.
Test drove tonight, AWESOME!!!! feels similar to a muncie, RS has a little quicker shifting. I had fun and didnt take it over 4000 RPM, want to break it in proper. very little traction with my 3:73 gears. Cant wait to do a 6000 + RPM shift, that will have to be from 2-3 with street tires. Ceramic clutch is a little stiff, but thats what i wanted if i decide to take back to the track and run my slicks. ;
Sweet! I took out the 3.70 gears in mine because it would hit redline as fast as I could lay the pedal down. The 3.42 gears now give me a bit of time to enjoy 1st gear :grin:
just an update, i had to do some carb adjustments, i had to tighten up my secondarys on my 800 Qjet, it was bogging , when i would shift into second with the wheels still spinning. Now I can keep the tires spinning threw 3rd gear, that was shifting at 6000. It is very injoyable to drive now, much better gas milage, and very fun.
Kelly, great install job. It looks like it fits like a glove. Way way better the the pos tko600. If I can just add and you might have done this but there is two spots to check for run out 1st is the the hole that the trans/bearing retainer centers in but also you should always check the surface that the trans bolts to to make sure its parallel and true to the surface that the bell housing bolts to. Chris
Thanks Chris, mine was a fairly clean setup. i could see issues, with a dirty engine and bellhouseing.
The problem that I have seen a few times is the new bell is mis machined from the factory so the surface that the trans bolt to and the surface that bolts to the block are not parallel to each other. How are you liking the RS trans? Chris
Yes, put about 400 miles on it this summer, worked great. My project this winter is to install a line lock,and relocate the break distrubution block up my the master cylinder, to get it away from the headers.
