If you were to replace head gasket..

Thought this might be a good thread to start. I'll be taking the surgical knife to the engine soon to replace a blown head gasket. I came up with the following as my shopping list. I was just curious if anyone would want to suggest what they would do since the guts were open.

It's a Buick 350 (Dauntless in Jeep speak). Total mileage is just shy of 140k. It might even be 240k, but I'm going with the lower number.

Here's my list (mostly from TA performance):
Shopping Item list:
* valve cover gasket (can reuse rubber ones I just bought)
* Carb gasket? (think i can keep carb attached to intake manifold during breakdown)
* 350 FELPRO HEAD GASKET (Product ID: TA_1723A) -- $45 qty2
* Remflex exhaust gasket (my right side had to get squashed a lot to seal it up, so probably worth replacing) -- $40ish qty1
* 350 stock intake gasket (Product ID: TA_1735) -- $32
* RobertShaw HighFlow 195 thermostat -- $12.5 @ BJ's Offroad
* replacement radiator hoses (no idea on source)
* replacement heater core hoses (no idea on source)
* thermostat housing gasket
* replacement heater core $50 @ BJ's offroad
* new plugs and wires (any recommendation?)
* PO used 10w40 oil, so stick with that?

Since I'm there
* oil change is necessary, so perhaps replace the oil pan gasket (Product ID: TA_1700-350) -- $17.50
* replace time chain cover gasket to seal it up? (Product ID: TA_1701-350) -- $15
* starter heat shield (I know a guy)
* Pertronix upgrade (is it worth it? no idea on part#, ~$150)

Add to the list if you can think of anything that is a "must have". I'll be getting a valve job done while the heads are out.

Keep in mind I don't want to break the bank, so let's keep things reasonable $$wise.

 

I would take the opportunity to change to a TA-RV212 or TA212 cam as well as new lifters, your old cam is likely worn heavily and the stock cams are very poor performers. Get a new timing set as well. You already have it apart might as well make this upgrade.

If you opt not to do the cam, then at least change the timing set, timing cover gasket and distributer gear.

If you have the engine out then change the front and rear oil seals, use the neoprene versions from TA. Might as well order a full gasket kit but remember the intake valley pan is separate. If you have spare gaskets that is a good thing... You will need them at some point.

 

You can leave the carb on the intake just duck tape up the top, and have a friend help you lift the intake off... These things are heavy, I always use alum. intakes just because of the weight....

I also suggest having your rad re-cored or replaced, might as well do the water-pump as well while you have it apart and drained. Look for a NOS water-pump though because the replacements are not always very good.

 

Hey Zack, When are you going to tear into the truck engine?

I've done several engine rebuilds and soft builds (replace gaskets) for years.

How deep do you want to get into the truck, heater core can get rebuilt in Concord, CA best alternative to shipping charges.

Alot of the parts I get from the local Napa Auto Stores, rad hoses, but as far as the Felpro gaskets I get from Kragen, I could use my mil. discount too.

The RV cam is the same one I use and love it, Timing chain we will look at since they usually fail around 90K miles, with the old Nylon gears engineered to fail.

Starter heat shield I still have to dive into all my parts boxes, my gas tank skid plate I have on the side yard, and yes relocate that darn battery, with fresh 38" battery cables, I know just replaced mine.

Remflex gaskets should be reusable

Pertronix is a good idea, also HEI setup is ideal for you since you don't have the OBA setup like I have.

Power Steering Saginaw cast 76 box is the better choice. Found on Big Buicks or Big GM Yank tanks as the blokes would say!

If your wanting to do seals and gaskets on the pan and crank, I'd rather pull the engine instead, which I can do in 3-4 hours, done it enough times.

Every 6 months I was pulling my engine out for issues.

Later, Mac

 

Should I trust ya? :Brow: Just kidding.

Ordering the following today:
* TA-RV12-350 Cam
* TA-1705 350 Gasket Set
* TA-1735 350 Stock Intake Valley Pan Gasket

Just hope the head is salvageable after getting all of these parts. Replacement head prices are greater than a replacement engine it seems.

 

Add a timing chain to that list too. You're local auto parts should have one in stock. Not much money either.

 

I'm planning on helping out Zack down in Oakland, CA tomorrow.

See what I can do to help him out with his J-2000 Gladiator Truck

Give him suggestions and advice, after looking in the motor.

Mac

 

I went down Sat. afternoon to help out Zack,
He had pulled the intake manifold off and was ready to start on the heads.

Well we pulled the heads off his truck engine and found the #1 cylinder had been leaking for awhile, since there wasn't any carbon buildup on the piston as the others had.
Also the engine has been bored out to .060 pistons.

What we found out, we looked at the heads and all the valve springs were off centered like someone just stuck whatever worked along with keepers to the valves.
Hopefully the valve guides or heads aren't cracked or ruined.
They have been dropped off to a machine shop, will find out tomorrow on their condition or rebuildability.

Mac

 

I'd recommend an oil pump booster plate. TA sells them, you can also have them ordered from the autoparts store.

 

Zac got his heads back from the machine shop Friday, Heads were fine, just had to replace all the valve springs, heads weren't cracked.

Today going back down to Oakland to help re-install his engine parts, etc...

Mac

 

Right on!

 

I realize I'm a little late to the party, but I didn't see any mention of the timing cover, and they are prone to rotting out at the top of the water passages. Nylon timing gears are one of the top five (?) worst ideas ever.

 

The nylon gears are most likely an engineered idea for Buick at the time, 90K miles for brittleness and destruction? Although they were probably looking for a quiet idea, smooth running, etc.

I've gone to the double chains from TA in the past.

Mac

 

Ha... didn't even realize this thread was still going on. The engine roared to life last night around 10pm. :TU:

Only one problem kept me from driving it home. An idle that wouldn't get reset. Here's the symptom:

* Rev engine to a higher than idle RPM (via gas pedal)
* release pedal
* engine stays idling at the new higher RPM
* shutoff engine, see the throttle linkage release and return

Thoughts anyone?

 

Did you do any changes to the choke assembly? did you have it apart? Does the choke linkage move freely?

 

You'd be talking about this piece right? (Excuse my Noob status here)
url = i14.photobucket.com /albums/a330/zbethem/Capture.jpg
(my post count isn't high enough to embed the image)

I'll check tonight. I think I might have removed the cover when I was poking around, but I don't believe I messed with anything while doing so. We did confirm that the manifold is creating plenty of vacuum. Could I maybe have stretched the thermostatic coil inside causing things to be a little screwy when things are warm?

Thanks for the help in troubleshooting. I think I need to get a carb-tuning manual for my book collection.

 

I'm not able to see your image (tried going to photobucket too) i'm assuming it was a picture of the cylinder on the pass. side of the carburetor. I'm not sure how far you had it apart. Did you replace any of the parts? If you took the coil out you may have put it in backwards and as it warms up it maybe closing the choke instead of opening it. (without seeing it makes it difficult to determine however)

 

I hear ya. My posting count isn't high enough to add links to images. So i had to add ' ' to fake out the rule.

I get what you're saying. I'll take a look tonight to see where things could have been inadvertently tweaked. I did notice when things were off that the air valves on top didn't seem as snappy to close like they were before the head gasket failure.

Guess I'm learning Carb 101 now.

 

Devon

 

Thanks for posting for me. That's the one I was referring to.