Slick, but you can put together a homebrewed system for alot less than $600. $329 for just the master sounds outrageous. You get stiffed just to get the angled mounting bracket you could easily have made.
I can save the hit and miss part of this, do you have any parts yet? I think this McLeod slave/bearing is the best. It is rated for a 1000hp+. http://www.mcleodind.com/application_guide_pgs/HYDTOB_BoltOn.html I was happy with all the Mcleod parts except there bell housing, it was very tight on the dowel pins and the sureface that the trans bolted on to was out by .028 so I tried a lakewood bell I had here and it was bang on other then having to use adjustable dowels to get it centered within .002 I will have more pics soon. Chris
Chris, I currently have an external slave & am going to change it over to the Mcleod bearing. My slave is just to close to my headers. thanks Frank
What clutch is installed now? You will need to know the measurement from where the trans bolts on to the bell to the fingers (diaphram) where the bearing rides. There is aboutr 6 or 7 different heights of pistons for the slave. Do you have a 3/4 inch piston in your clutch master? Chris
Currently running a 11" centerforce clutch and a 3/4" wilwood master. I did see the chart on the Mcleod web site that tells you which spacer to order based on the measurement from the clutch fingers to the front of the tranny. thanks,
Its not a spacer it is a piston in the slave its self. Hang in there for a couple days until the wagon leaves and I will help you out. Chris
WOW, I have to relax. Big project in a short amount of time. This set-up is King! I'm not sure about the TKO600 but everything else is great! Chris
I have a bunch of pic's. I think I will start a new thread with pic's and tech. I will take a couple day's to get it together a relax. We just came of a 12 day thrash on this wagon, eveything but the body was replace. This is the first wagon I have done and I must say after loading it into the customers trailer last night I miss it already, what a cool car. Chris
Anyone using a RAM brand clutch and if so, what's your opinion of them? I'm not satisfied with my current Centerforce clutch. Their centrifugal clamping trick may work great on a high winding, wimpy torque, small block Chev, but it ain't cutting it for me. Here's some info from the Centerforce tech that explains it. ________________________________________ From: Roger Warner [mailto:rogerw@centerforce.com] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 2:43 PM To: Schiebel, Steve Subject: RE: inadequate clutch? Hello Steve, In reply to your email, you may be correct in your statement that the clutch is inadequate for your vehicle. The holding capacity of our 11" centerforce II assembly is 500 foot lb's of torque at the crank. However, with your gearing combination, tire height and weight of your application, this clutch might not be suitable, especially if the clutch is not fully seated-in or has any throwout bearing preload. I would not recommend our dual friction 11 clutch either being the gearing combination will result in poor service life of the clutch. If you have a 26 spline transmission input shaft, you might be able to use our 12" clutch part number DF612909 This clutch has been used behind the 572 crate engines from General Motors with good success. Feel free to contact us at (928) 771-8422 if you have any questions. Regards, Roger -----Original Message----- From: Schiebel, Steve Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 11:53 AM To: Roger Warner Subject: inadequate clutch? Ive got a '71 Riviera (approximate weight of 4500 lbs) with a 455 bored 0.030 over to 462, with probably an easy 500ft/lbs peak torque, that Ive converted to a hydraulically-actuated 4spd. Due to exhaust manifold clearance issue, a pull-type slave cylinder is used to actuate shift fork. (Summer 09 chassis dyno torque estimate of 572 at 3200rpms) Its a BW ST-10 with 2.64 1st gear running a Centerforce II 11" pressure plate, single disc and TO brg. New TA Perf flywheel. I run a roughly stock height 28" tire on 17" wheels. I run 2.93 posi rear gears. I cannot get much tire spin if revd to 3000-3500 rpm and dump the clutch. Clutch slips instead, massive slip generating smoke from clutch. Ive been told that with the 4500lb weight of the car and the 2.93 gears, it takes too much to get the car rolling and the clutch can't handle the torque and subsequently slips. I thought the Centerforce II clutch is supposed to overcome this problem. Do you feel the Centerforce II is just not adequate for my vehicles power? Would I be better off with your Dual Friction clutch package? Thanks, Steve
Steve, I'm roughly 1000 lbs lighter than you (GS California) and am running a RAM clutch behind a "stock" '71 455 Stage 1, std bore, std cam, Muncie 4 spd, 3.31 gears, dual exaust. When using the T/A long tube headers, I had little to no slippage problems. If I ran it up to 4500 & dumped the clutch, then I ran the risk of smoking a clutch. I ended up blowing the 4 speed up (M-20) this spring after switching to exaust manifolds & sticky tires. The clutch has always been fine for my application, but is right at the max torque output of a Stage 1. You may want to switch the gearing on the rear end. Best accomplished with a Ford 9" & 3.50 gears. Will effect the fuel economy and of course make the wallet lighter! :Brow: Jim 1969 GS California 455 Stage 1/Muncie 4 spd/3.31 12 bolt posi Currently BROKEN
I posted some pic's here http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=188146 If I can offer any help let me know, That slave is king...Chris
