Does anyone make a hydrolic conversion kit? I broke the engine side ball stud in the block! Must have been grit in the threads since rebuild, idk. But now I'm kinda screwed. Dont want to chance it. Dont feel like pulling the engine after I just put it in. What slave cylinder would be efficient enough for my application? 65 skylark 462bb t-10 4speed ta billet flywheel 11 inch clutch 69 chevelle pedal assembly and rods
Do a search on here for the information. There's a couple of people who have done a hydraulic clutch but I think we all used a hydraulic throw out bearing not a slave cylinder. With all the work and expense involved in changing to hydraulic it would be easier to pull the engine in my opinion.
I'm planning on using a hydraulic set up in my star cheif. Get the Wilwood 3/4 bore master cylinder and the wilwood slave cylinder. Then all you have to do is mount the slave cylinder behind the clutch fork and plumb it up. The slave cylinder is the pull style. That's pretty simple and only about $175$ in parts.
Thanks for the info. Would making a bracket which utilizes the bolt holes to mount the trans to the bell housing affect strength of the bellhousing?
I don't know. I've heard mixed things. All the good things I have heard are from people who have run them. All the bad things I've heard are from people who have never run them personally.
Sounds like everything in his world! Ill try it out. I dont think it will be much work. One more question: Would utilizing my existing peal propose a problem? I can modify just about anything, but I wonder if should put pedal stop so as not to damage the master cylinder.
Wilwood lists the "stroke" of the master cylinders, you could use that measurement to figure out where to mount the push rod and the master cylinder to try to match that stroke. I'm gunna order my parts soon. If it doesn't work it doesn't work but I'm going to give it a shot. If you beat me to it, let me know how it goes.
Great to see you have it fixed, so for other people asking the same question. Chris http://www.keislerauto.com/index.php?/hydraulic-clutch-actuator-kit-for-gm-a-body-1968-72.html http://www.americanpowertrain.com/gm/transmissions/clutch-link-kit.html
I have a T56 swap planned in the next year or two. Those prices seem a little outrageous to me. I was going to try and just get parts from wilwood, or mcleod and fabricate a mount to make the system work. Mcleod and Wilwood both sell masters, and slaves seperately, and just about any length of stainless braided line you can think of with "quick connects". The issue would arise with the master, because its designed for specific vehicles. So the A-body firewall may not be user freindly.
The mcleod cylinder i was referring to already has an angle on it. I think its made for a 4th generation F-body. I wasnt aware of the Wilwood not being angled. But that doesnt look too hard to do.
Frank, nice job! do you have more pics of the master to see how close is it to the vacuum booster, steering column and inner fender? Chris
Chris, I still have the front end off. I am running manual disks so no booster to deal with. I acutally moved the steering column out about 1/4" to clear the headers. I'll get more pics when I get the fenders back on.
Good info, Mine is for my '59 Pontiac and I doubt any will be a direct bolt in. But that's half the fun of it
This seems like a sweet setup: http://www.americanpowertrain.com/gm/transmissions/clutch-link-kit.html#Hydraulic Anyone run this? Looks like a super easy bolt on conversion.