This may seem like a wierd or dumb question, but when I was installing the front end components in my friends Elky, he asked me why I bend the cotter pins the way I do. It got me to thinking if there is a right or a wrong way. I install them and bend one side over the top of the bolt head. The other side I cut. Ive seen them put in sideways and the sides bent around the circumference of the nut. So is there a right or wrong way? I do it the way I do because i just think it look neater. How did the factory do it? Just curious how you guys install them.
I do it the way you do, but I believe the factory bent the other end down to contour the nut and spindle.
I guess it all depends on what you are doing with the car. On my drivers I always installed them like you, but the factory did it differently.................................... On the 68-72 GM A-bodies the factory used two different methods of installation, depending on where or should I say "who" installed them. They were slipped through the hole and then smashed flat on the "front end sub assembly pieces", but the pins installed at final assembly (outer tie rods, upper & lower balljoints) were slid through the hole and "both" ends were curved over the top of the bolt. Plus the types/sizes of cotter pins used depended on which plant put the car together, but that is a different story. Duane
When I did the ball joints on my truck, I wrote down how the factory had them and replicated that when I installed them. Figured if it worked for 80,000+ miles it was good enough for me.
Like this if using a nut. I find when the cotter pin is positioned to be bent this way, the head of the cotter pin fits neatly inside the castle nut.
Same here. I've had dozens upon dozens of GM cars apart through the years and this is always the way they were put together. So far I've never found an exception.
I think it's a background thing as to which way someone does it. Leg down and leg over the top is the factory way and how many do it when they like to stay factory correct. Legs sread around circumference is the way racers do it because it makes for a quicker install and easier removal using a pair of needle nose pliers. Both ways work perfectly fine assuming the dust cover/boot fits over the legs once they're bent. I generally use the wrap around method since that's how the tiny ones were installed on my rc racecar when I was little.
How the factory did it is one thing, but I and other guys (I worked at a car dealer for a number of years) used different techniques to identify the work the next time it came in...especially if it was a come-back. I can look at a cotter-pin install and immediately tell you it's not mine. The important thing with a cotter-pin beyond original-appearing is making sure it won't come out and allow the nut to depart for parts unknown. Many ways to do that.
That makes three of us. Not that I've ever thought about it. I'm sure that's the way it was on something I was taking apart way back when and that's how I started. The only problem that I would have with cutting one side of it is that I figure that with both sides bent, you have less chance of it coming apart. You have half as many parts bent to hold it. For the REAL answer, we need someone with aircraft experience. John Codman!! Where are you??
Well, Im glad I'm doing it the right way. The reason I cut the cotter pin is that the cotter pins I use are usually a little long. So when I bend the one leg over the top of the bolt, I cut the excess that goes past the bolt. And the other leg gets trimmed so it doesnt snag anything. Normally I trim it to about an 1/8" or so past the nut. That leg I dont bend down into the castleation (is that a word?). I think I should start doing that Interesting stuff.
I may try and get some junkyard pictures of Skylarks cotter pins this weekend. There are some cars there that look like they have never been touched. Flint and Framingham cars.
I worked at the dealer 70 to 76. I saw a few ways the factory did it. I have seen the cotter pin installed and the long leg go over the top of the stud , and the short leg bend 90* down the side of the nut till it reached the bottom of the nut and then bent again 90* away from the nut. I have also seen both legs bent down the side of the nut , and then bent 90* away from the nut. Most original factory cotter pins on the front end were a copper color
Dave says, "I may try and get some junkyard pictures of Skylarks cotter pins this weekend. There are some cars there that look like they have never been touched. Flint and Framingham cars." Dave, No need to re-invent the wheel. I have already done this for the 68-72 Buick A-bodies. I used to sell cotter pin sets for the Concours cars and drew up a sheet illustrating how the pins were "set" at the various locations. I also noted if the pins were copper or steel and where they were located. The type pins used (copper vs steel, and diameter of the pins) depended on which plant built the car, and some plants used both styles. The way they were installed depended on "who" put them in, ie was it done as a sub-assembly or was it done at final assembly. Flint cars are different from GMAD cars, and they also changed depending on the year of manufacture. We looked at close to 100 original cars (mostly 69-72 models) and checked to make sure the parts were date coded correctly, and had the correct paint dabs etc, before assuming everything was legit. I also did this for my GMAD built 70 442 convertible, and a few Chevelles in the area. Duane PS. We also use the above information to judge the Concours cars for the GSCA, BPG, and for many of the BCA National judging events.
I wonder if the info is the same for non-A's. I'd imagine the other cars built at the same factories are built the same way. I've got some copper colored cotter pins on the front end of my C-body so maybe that would help determine something.
