Well folks, I got an HEI distributor today, but it looks like I have 9.5 or so volts to the coil; I have been told that i need 12. Should i tap into some switched 12v lead? If so, which one?
Run a 10ga. wire directly from a switched 12v source. Anything that is hot when the key is turned will work.
NO NO NO ...:shock: some wires are hot when the key is on and not while th engine is crankin. also some wires are hot while th key is on AND when it is on ACC ALSO ..if you tap your 10 ga wire from a wire that is only 18 ga, you might have a smokin wire problem in the near future ... ..... so DONT tap into just any wire that is hot when th key is on. there is a terminal on your fuse block labeled "IGN" or somethin to do with "IGNITION" ..that is where you can plug your wire in. if you really want to do a slick hook-up ... NAPA sells a new ignition wire that will replace your old points wire with an HEI wire. it is the best way to go. looks stock and works excellent and doesnt require passing a stray wire through the firewall.:TU:
I havent looked, but i will. So i shouldnt tap into anything thats "on" with the key? The ignition has to be on?
Mine is run from the IGN terminal on the fuseblock. Works just fine, and it didn't require any harness modifications.
Austin, Here's a write up on how to do the wiring for the conversion: http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/HEIconversion.html ...and an article on how to do a full Buick HEI rebuild & install: http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/BuickHeiConversions.htm
update Im confused! Is the pink ignition wire in the fuse block supposed to register no current ?? I routed it to the distributor anyway and it seems to get spark, but its not blue spark. Im baffled as to why the ignition wire would not register.:blast:
Re: update What position was the ignition switch in? It's been a long time since I played with ignition switches, but if it was off, should you have gotten current? If it's hot when in the off position, your car wouldn't shut off, right?
Re: update Austin - The original points distributors had a 'resistance wire' for the coil. When converting to electronic ignition, that wire HAS TO GO. Put the 10ga Pink wire in its place. Splice into the fuse block as close as you can.
Austin, The right way to do this swap is to trace the wire from the coil+ back to the firewall. Along the way, this wire is joined by a wire from the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid(remove that too). The wire clips in to the foward half of the fuse block or bulkhead connector.(underneath the power brake booster) There is a bolt in the middle of the connector. Remove that, and the foward half of the bulkhead connector pulls away from the firewall. The wires have barb type clips, that click into the bulkhead connector. You can compress the clip with needle nose pliers and the wire will pull right out from the front. Year One sells an HEI wire with the special clip and HEI distributor connection. Just push the wire into the same hole in the bulkhead connector until you feel the clip click into place. Then reassemble the bulkhead connector to the firewall. Here's a picture of the Year One wire. Notice the HEI distributor connection, and on the other end the special clip.
The existing coil+ wire goes into the bulkhead connector(on the firewall). You remove that wire, and "R" wire, and replace it with the Year One wire or equivalent.
After reading all the posts here about HEI, I cant understand what is so good about it when it is so much trouble to install. I put in a "Pertronix" in my stock distributor about 8 years ago. We've taken this car on some very long trips, and it has never given me a speck of trouble. Car starts good, runs smooth, and even at over 6,000 revs it doesn't misfire. (did that with my old motor:grin: ) No extreme mods required. I think that's the best way to go IMO but I don't know if it will work with an MSD box. I guess you guys who build to race must have other good reasons for using HEI.o No:
HEI is easy to install though, just a 10 ga. wire from IGN to the BAT side of the HEI. Mine was done way before I had ever even heard of Pertronix. The good reason for HEI is it's easy and you never install points again. I don't think that the racers use HEI actually.
Pertronix takes the place of points also. It doesn't need a heavier wire, and it uses the stock cap, rotor and wires. It's also way cheaper, about $70 depending on where you buy it. If mine ever goes, I'll get another one. They don't make a HEI dist. to fit a Nailhead anyways as far as I know.:ball:
It's actually very easy to convert to an HEI. I know it may sound complicated to replace that wire, but it isn't. I'm glad you are not having any problems with the Pertronix, I have a friend with a Pertronix, and it has been trouble free for him as well. That is not the case with some other guys on this BB. One big advantage to the HEI is you can run bigger plug gaps, which in some cases will give you better performance. Pertronix basically has the same spark energy as a point system. If you want a high energy ignition for your nailhead, you can send your distributor to the ignitionman, and have him convert it to an HEI or he can convert it to a magnetic trigger design, then run any MSD or other ignition box.
Update: I got it all together, but the car runs like crap. Im going to have to work on the timing and such.
