So this spring I will be rebuilding the Skylark from my wreck back in July. I will basically be starting with an empty canvas suspension wise as nearly everything will need to be replaced. I was just wondering what suspension set up you guys would recommend for a weekend/good weather driver, ie springs(drop?), bushings, sway bars, coil overs, etc? Believe it or not I love the way the Skylark would seem to float as it drove, but I did not like the insane leaning while in the corners. What set up do you guys recommend that wouldn't make the car drive completely like a modern car, but still handle decent? Thanks for the help and in put guys, it's much appreciated. I can't wait to get the car back on the road.
I would stay away from lowering the car. Speed bumps, steep driveways and the crowns in intersections are a killer. Jen's Mustang is dropped and that car is always scraping bottom. I would replace all the wear parts with Moog or McQuay Norris and replace the front sway bar with a thicker 1" unit. I would use urethane only for the sway bar bracket bushings and end links. Install a a rear sway bar and boxed arms if it doesnt have one already. A set of H rated tires with their stiffer sidewalls would do wonders.
I have heard people say they really like the hotchis set up. But prepare to spend big bucks. I bought the McQuay Norris components, moog springs and will just use regular shocks. And a disc brake conversion. Can't tell you how it rides yet.
Rebuild the front suspension with quality rubber bushings. Install a 1.25" sway bar from a 70-81 Pontiac T/A. Use urethane mounts and end links. Rear sway bar with boxed arms, and also add the brace from a GS that goes on the frame to the mounting points for the rear arms. Next if your budget allows install a quick ratio steering box. this will give you better road feel.
Ditto. I have a freind with the hotckis system. I tried to copy that system by buying all the summit parts, and getting used boxed control arms. My only complaint about the 1.25, the hotchkis and the summit FRONT sway bar is that you can feel every blade of grass you drive over, and your car will get a whole lot rattlier. Would be nice if there was a front sway bar size bigger than factory and smaller than 1.25. But just rebuilt your stock suspension, and get the big front sway bar, and i beleive itll be exactly what youre after.
Pst sells complete kits, urethane bushings and hd suspension pieces compared to stock and 1.125 sway bars. Kits are about 420 plus add ons. Believe me for quality parts that's extremely reasonable. I have been price comparing the last 2 weeks, box rear arms and get some good tires. Will make a world of difference. Get new springs also, and good shocks. Stock springs lose the ride after a while.
I concur on the bigger front bar, boxed rear control arms, rear swaybar and ONLY use urethane bushings on the front swaybar, not the rest of the front end. The quick ratio steering is nice, too, and easy to do. I would not lower my car for anything unless you are fond of scraping noises. If budget allows, you can do the tubular front upper control arms for better steering geometry to make it handle like a slot car. Finally, a good set of wheels and tires are the finishing touch. Go as tall and as wide as you can can handle. Taller tires have better ride quality and soak up the torque Buicks dish out a little better.
Thanks for all the help guys. As the rebuild goes, I'll take pictures and keep everyone updated in a specific rebuild thread. Again, thanks.
Oh, and on the used boxed in control arms- What models are compatible? Just a 1972 Skylark/GS/GSX? Or any GM A-Body within a certain year range? And I believe I already have a quick ratio steering box, but I'm not sure how to tell. Are there casting numbers that will tell me? Thanks.
Boxed control arm will be on a car with a rear sway bar, grab it, too. It may be on any A body car with an F41 package from 68 to 72. For quick ratio steering, what are the turns lock to lock? It should be less than 3 turns lock to lock for fast ratio.
I got my used ones off a cutlass with the F41 package. 10bolt, 12bolt, its all good. 68-72 A-body. Look for them online (kijiji or craigslist) about $50 gets you it.
Greg and Azeem, thanks for the replies! I'll be heading to some local salvage yards to look for some A-Body sway bars and control arms. As far as the steering box goes, the current box I have is 3 1/2 to lock each way from center, which I believe I read is sometimes considered quick ratio. But I guess in our case it isn't. I'll be looking for that too. Again, thanks guys.
my 72 gs came with F41 suspension. in the winter of 2001-2002, i completely rebuilt the front and rear suspensions. the suspension parts are poly from pst. if i were doing it again i would use rubber parts for the front uppers & lower control arms and for the rear uppers & lowers. i would still use poly for the sway bars and links. i retained the stock sway bars. with the 15x7 rallyes + bfg 245r60x15 tires, this car handles super!
if you havent bought front springs/shocks yet, i''ll hook ya up with a good deal, these are still new in box just check my link, half off...same goes for the lower UMU rear control arm braces.. scandc.com sells front tubulars at a good price via either spc, spohn or speed tech, just combo in the lowest priced combo weath it be mix/mached, as they're all good still available new front moog springs 65 shipped (126 + s/h through summit) new pair of front edelbrock ias shocks 80 shipped (86 each + s/h through summit) new umi control arm braces 65 shipped (99 + s/h through summit)
that's fine, if you plan to go with drop springs instead ccp has 1.5 drop all 4 corners, which should sit the same of half an inch lower then worn factory opgi has 1 , 2, and 3in drop springs
I see a number of responses indicating not using urethane components on the front end, except for sway bar links. What is the negative of going all urethane on the front end? What about rear control arms bushings - urethane or not? Thanks
Urethane bushings tend to squeak. They also are much harder, so they tend to not only give you a harsher ride, but transmit vibration easier. Having urethane on just the sway bar and rubber on the rest provides good balance between ride quality and handling
