It is going to be 69 Ha, in Dallas so I guess you won't need the block heater now. Good fix on the starter. Headers and the heat in that area does wreck havoc on the starter and wires there, I probably need to check mine out also its been a while.
A little blowby but not excessive. With 2 PCVs I can draw a slight vacuum on the crankcase and it all but eliminates the rear main leak. I put a rubber seal in it but I guess it isn't right. If I ever do another one, the engine will be out of the car and the crank will be lifted off the mains to allow good access. ---------- Post added at 07:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 AM ---------- The starter was the last (except power steering pump) drivetrain item that I have not replaced or spent money on. So it's been in use for 7 years + however long it was on the car before me. I think it lasted pretty well.
No wonder you guys are getting pissy about me suggesting he plug in the block heater... 30 is not really a cold start compared to what I am used to LOL! I went out and fired up the 75 Regal a few weeks ago and it was plugged in and fired right up at -30 F. I know for a fact it would be hard starting even at 0 without the block heater... In plus 30 no block heater needed LOL.
We demand a video of you trying to start that car in -30* weather, Do it now LOL.:laugh::shock: Without the block heater of course!
When it gets cold again I will do a cold start without the block heater... At -10 F it will start fine, colder than that I plug it in.
Here in Texas we sometimes use our block heaters on the diesels which come with block heaters from the factory. It may not be necessary at +20*F but it sure cuts down on the "racket" of a cold start and it gets the heater going quicker. Early 80's diesels were alot harder to startup than the later models. We would never "require" block heaters in Texas but it is a nice convenience. Do you use any oil additive to help it spin over a 20 below or just use light weight oil. I have used various additives in my diesel and most seem to improve cranking speed when cold, even the good old STP which might seem counter-intuitive but it does reduce friction. Starting any engine when down around zero really is hard on everything without a heater.
I do not use additives but I do use synthetic fluids in through the whole vehicle. I find the synthetic does not freeze up solid like the regular oil does. Try it sometime, take a cup of synthetic 10W30 and a cup of conventional 10W30 and put them both in the freezer over night... In the morning you will see that the synthetic is flowing WAY better than the conventional. There is no doubt about it that cold starts are hard on vehicles, especially -20 or colder.... The block heaters really cut down on the warm up time and save fuel from not having to idle them forever waiting for the windows to thaw out... I remember when I was a kid my dad used to take a bucket of hot water and toss it on the windshield of the car and it instantly melted off all the ice, although that was about 15 F so not cold really... Sometimes I hook up a timer and a little space heater in the vehicle so that 1 hour before I go start it the heater turns on and thaws the windows and warms the interior... I also use heated seats, they come in SUPER handy when it is -40! Just remember they take 15 minutes to heat up when it is that cold.... The best protection from cold starts is a heated garage, but I can not fit them all in there.... Need to build a large shop but the heating bill will be up there for sure...
I love Texas.....no "-" before the temperatuture. Any update? Did that fix your problem? Bids you make it to work on time? Be careful on your drive back this weekend.
No problem turning over and getting an initial fire, but it took a few restarts to get it to where the engine would stay running. That was yesterday. Today, since it was in the 50s, it fired right up and I immediately started driving. It feels like my old starter had been week for quite some time. I've never seen it turn over this fast. I wonder if there is a difference between fuel formulas between Alabama and Texas.
Good question. When I heard of the unusually cold temps you've gotten, fuel was the first thing that came to mind regarding your problem. It's possible that what is in the tank wasn't formulated for such unusually low temps. Here's a look at how formulations differ among locations in the US: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/420b05012.pdf Devon
Cason, I just today read this thread for the first time. I think it could be a fuel difference from Houston to Tuscaloosa/Birmingham. Along with a voltage difference with the poor starter. I thought about altitude But Houston at 125 Tuscaloosa at 200 Is not a significant difference, (Jefferson county Alabama is 500-1400) How is it starting now?
Seems to be doing better. When the engine is warm it's excellent, don't even have to touch the gas. Thanks for the altitude numbers, that is interesting. Looking forward to next week fueling up in Alabama with gas nozzles that don't have accordions! :TU:
I've only seen those accordion nozzles in photos ---------- Post added at 09:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 PM ---------- Have a safe trip And Merry Christmas
