Engine Upgrade or newer engine

Hey everyone,

I am new to the board and the classic car scene. I have a 1970 Buick Skylark Custom. Its an automatic. I am interested in knowing what I can do to get my engine to perform like a muscle car. I have a 350 engine with no power. A few shops are telling me to swap it out and get an 80's engine in it. I dont want to really do it because I was told its the original engine. I need help. I need to know the cheapest way to add horsepower. If anyone has that knowlege, please share it with me...(I have pics of my engine)

thanks,

MUNDAY

 

Is that a two barrel under there? Can't tell.

Find you a buick 4bbl intake and qjet on the V8 site. And recommend some headers. That's the cheap way to gain some. There is a long list of what you can do from there, but you got to let it breath.

 

yes..I was told it was...thanks for your quick answer

 

A 1970 350-2 was rated at 260 HP. If it has "no power" there's something wrong with it. First you need to make sure it's not worn out and what you have is properly tuned and running the way the factory intended. Then check out the "Power timing your Buick V8" thread in the FAQ section. IMHO, a four barrel carb and headers is a minor increase for the work/money. If it was me I'd get it running right and if I still wanted more power, think about building another engine. There's tons on info on this site for builds from stock to mild to full race, 350 and 455.

When I sold the car in my avatar in 1987 it had 135K, burned a quart of oil every 1000 miles and it STILL did 120MPH and would burn the right rear at will. It was a bone stock 350-2 that wasn't well cared for.

 

Thanks I will look around on the site..I am not the handy guy when it comes to cars though..lol.. the car is slow..So i will definitly get it checked out..Im not looking for a hot rod...but I would like to beat a honda accord or maxima when they pull up on me...

 

a Skylark Custom could have come with the "SP" code high compression 350 which was rated at 315hp and 410lbft.

that would have been a high compression motor with 4v and dual exhaust. as you can see, you should be able to get more than enough performance out of that to make you happy.

another possible reason for poor performance to consider is the transmission.

do you have any idea what the ratio in your rear end is?

 

I'm sure it has conservative gears and a TH350 trans. Compared to modern cars they will have more gearing because they need the rpm. The 350 should be able to make up for this with the torque, but if it is out of tune or tired it will be off. Also, what is that box on the driver's inner fender that goes to the vacuum advance? That's not right and if the timing is all messed with, it will be a big impact on performance.

Also, anyone that tells you to replace a 1970 engine with an engine from the 80's unless it's a ZR-1 engine or a turbo Buick, doesn't know what they are talking about.

Spend some time on this board and work through the recommendations. Getting the engine to run at it's best IS the starting point and it's also the least expensive (if it is just tune up items). After that, headers will be the best bolt on gain. Gears will make a big difference, but could get a little pricey, and will impact gas mileage.

Oh yeah, and order a TA Performance catalog!

 

I lost power on mine when I did the timing chain. it was a tooth off when I opened it up but someone already changed the timing chain. (was no longer the plastic gear) I reassembled it streight up. I'm guessing now that my valve timing isn't optimal for the car streight up and the previous owner musta had degreed the timing. My engine also has 167k miles on it and is the lower compression 2bbl engine (now has a 4bbl).

-nate

 

I took your advice imediately...I hope there is someone out there that can show me the ropes and give me the best information possible...thanks

 

I never thought about that..So im taking that I would have to take it to a shop that rebuild transmisions to tell me if ts good or not..?

 

I have no clue as to what that black box is...would it have anything to do with the smog eliminator (if thats the correct word)? As I said,,as far as these older cars go...there arnt too many people in these shops that can fix them..I was told the shop probably wants my motor and thats why the suggested using an 80's

 

I never thought about that..So im taking that I would have to take it to a shop that rebuild transmisions to tell me if ts good or not..?

probably, unless you happen to have a friend who's fairly good with automotive matters. what's the level of fluid in your transmission and what is the color? that'll get us started.

an FYI, when you reply you should quote what you are responding to in your current post. this helps prevent confusion as the thread grows.

 

duals ,ta 212 cam, 4 barrel carb , 2000 convertor, bump timing and loose the points and go with some kind of points conversion kit or send to trishield for a magnetic upgrade

 

i will definitely take a trip...i didnt even know that there were people crusing in this part of NY...

 

Well,this is just my opinion.If this shop wants you to use an 80s motor,because they want yours.I would question their motives.Your original motor is way better to rebuild and keep with your car.You might want to look for another shop if you do indeed need a rebuild.One thing I have learned on this site is that it's real difficult to find a good shop that also knows how to build a Buick motor.Someone here can probably lead you to a good shop.

 

how cool is that! and how lucky is Munday that "the wizard" will be checking out his car! :TU:

 

When it comes to building up a car, the best person to trust is your self!!!!!
You have a good mind, ask guys here on this board, get shop manuals, get tools, and combine the info and your mind, develop your skills and join in on a good hobby. :laugh: :laugh:
send me your email address and I will send you a list of inexpensive things to do to your car that will actually work.:Brow: :Brow: :Brow: