disc brake conversion, need a little help

I'm working on a disc brake conversion for my 1970 Buick Skylark. Can't seem to get the right tool to compress the springs and remove the front spindles. I can't seem to get the tools I've tried to attach to the spring properly. Any advice is appreciated.

 

I purchased a spring compressor from autozone 14 years ago. IT installs inside the spring (u have to remove the shock). They tell u not to use an impact gun to tighten the bolt. I did use the impact wrench and it worked. I did have to cut an inch off the bolt as it was too long.

 

I went through this recently. PO had one of the springs installed upside down so I had to remove it to install it correctly. I did not use a spring compressor. The vehicle I did this on was a 72 skylark with a 350 and stock drum suspension. Lifted and supported the vehicle on jack stands. Supported the lower control arm with a jack. Placed a chain down through the middle of the spring and control arm for safety. Popped the lower ball joint lose but left the nut on temporarily. Slowly lowered the lower control arm with the jack until the upper control arm bottomed out on the frame. Then I fully removed the nut on the lower ball joint (you have to remove the nut before there is tension on it to avoid any sudden release of the spring) and slowly lowered the lower control arm all the way down. The spring just falls out. Installation is just the reverse.

Be sure to position the spring with the flat side up and mind the position of the inspection slot in the lower control arm when reinstalling.

Also, very important, make good and sure the lower control arm does not slide off the jack when lowering or raising it. If it slips the spring will be uncontrollably released and can hurt you. Some people drop a chain down through the middle of the spring to keep it from going too far and that is my practice as well.

if you search the site, there are several threads on spring removal and re-installation.
Good luck

 

Don't compress the spring. Here's how Ive been doing it for the last 40 years or so:
1) Put the jack stands under the lower control arms.
2) Use a pickle fork to break the ball joints loose.
3) Swing the upper control arm up and out of the way.
4) Lift the spindle off. This would be a good time to replace your ball joint boots if they are torn,and/or replace ball joints if worn.
5) Place the new spindle on the lower ball joint and tighten nut, replace cotter pin.
6) Swing the upper control arm down, tighten nut and replace cotter pin.
7) There is no step 7, You're done!

 

Thanks guys I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

 

Agreed. I just did this. If not replacing springs and/or lower control arms, no need to remove springs.

 

My mistake. Thought you were trying to get the spring out as well. The guys are right. Good luck.

 

Day two...I've followed your instructions however i ran into a snag. The lower part of the spindle will not come free. I've removed all the cotter pins and nuts. With a few taps on the joint removal fork the upper part came lose. the lower part won's budge. I even reattached the upper part of the spindle to take advantage of the spring force and have been pounding away with the joint removal fork. My next step seems to be to try to heat it up with a torch. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm welcome to any other suggestions.

 

Get two 1/2 inch bolts, nuts, and several flat washers, and a short length of pipe that the 'thread stock' of the bolts fit in. Put the nuts on the bolts, tighten to the very top. Put washers on after nuts; put stock of both bolts into pipe. [ bolt head, nut, washer, pipe, washer, nut, bolt head]... Put this assembly between the ball joints on top of the ball joint castle nut that is loosened. Using two wrenches "loosen" the nut on the bolt on the offending ball joint. HOLD the bolt head still and turn the nut; this will place pressure and NOT rotational force on the ball joint. The castle nut distributes the force and retains the spring compression...

 

I did this a few months ago. Loosen both castle nuts but don't remove them. Allow the spring pressure to help force the lower arm down.

Next, either bang on the spindle where the ball joint goes through or bang on the control arm close to the lower ball joint. It only took one good hit on the spindle to get mine apart. Same for the car I took the spindles off to put discs on my car.

 

Here's an old fashion way. Get a sledge hammer and hold it on the flat of the spindle just behind the ball joint hole. Use a large hammer, at least one pound, and hit the flat on the other side of the hole. This makes the hole go slightly oval and will break the hold of the taper. It would be easier if you have the spindle stripped down with the backing plate and steering arm off.

 

I had to use the spring compressor the 1st time because the engine + tranny were out of the car.

 

I found these metal spacers between the front springs. Anyone now what they are?

 

They are spring spacers, twist in style. Usually put them on opposite sides of the same round for most lift.

 

They compensate for saggy springs. While you're at it you may as well check all components of you front end to see what else it needs. Max free play on that ball joint is .070".

 

Depending on the current riding height, you my want to consider new springs, if it has spacers in it already. It's a slippery slope- once you get into it, you start thinking to go all the way in.

 

yeah...Just ordered ball joints. I'll check into springs.

 

I'm sure the ball joints will be a bear to get out. Any tips?

 

Yes, got to Auto Zone, Advance Auto or your local parts place and rent a ball joint press. Makes a tedious job of banging and beating a lot easier.

I just did all 4 ball joints on my 71 two months ago. Uppers bolt in to after market tubulars so no issue.

I rented a ball joint press from Advanced Auto for the night. Lowers were pressed out with the occasional tap on the control arm to help it when it got tough to wrench any. Same going in. Very easy and didn't break a sweat.

 

Just replaced my complete front suspension. Rented the ball joint press and control arm bushing press from Autozone worked ok on drivers side. sprayed some "Kroil" on the pass. side and the bushings almost fell out.:laugh:. That Kroil penetrant stuff is amazing! Used the coil spring compressor from autozone also due to having body and engine/tranny removed from the frame.