I don't know the number, but I'm sure its the correct one for '70 GS350. To fix the "to lean" problem would I have to change the jets? About the possibilty of a stuck lifter, here's something I must mention: After riding my car kinda rough before the homecoming dance today, the pass side valve was tapping preaty bad. After the dance, 2.5 hours later, I start the car up, no lifter noise, so I'm happy, I rev it up preatty high, and guess who's back, the noise. Did a burnout anyway. So I'm going to have to check it out soon. I'm really edging to rebuild the heads, port and polish intake and heads, and put a cam in there all in one shot. Edit: Just came to thought, that its probably a blown gasket, I haven't checked yet though.
350 noise Sounds like you have several problems. If the pinging got worse after the dual exhaust install I feel sure it got too lean I had the same problem, which I corrected with jetting. As far as timing I am running 34 degrees total at 2200, 10 to 1 compression on premium fuel , 160 degree engine temp and no rattle. If it gets over 190 I will get a litle noise. I think you still have more problems, what is your oil pressure? What conditon are the rocker arms and shafts in? So many little problems can make for major problems. Hope this helps. Mike
The 70 350 4 barrell carb for the automatic was a 7040244. It was jetted with 69 jets, and 45B primary rods. Look at the carb for the 350 with the 4 speed. It was jetted with 73 jets and 43B rods. That might work for you.
Slawek, If you can, pull all your spark plugs, mark which cylinder they came from, take pics and post them. If you dont have or can get a digital camera you'll need to learn about reading spark plugs. Reading the plugs will tell you if its running lean. When the air fuel mixture is correct, the porcelain will be tan to medium gray color. White porcelain is lean. Dark gray to black porcelain is rich. Black oily porcelain showa oil consumption. I doubt carbon is your problem if you're doing burnouts. If it is, carbon can be removed by pouring small amounts of water down the throat of the carb while the engine is running. I hold the throttle open with one hand and pour the water with the other. You give it enough gas to keep it running and around a 1/8 inch stream of water alternating between the left and right primaries. Oil consumption can also cause pinging. This can be due to bad valve seals or oil rings. How many miles on the engine? Does it smoke or burn oil? Again, the plugs will show significant oil consumption.
Thanks everyone for all your help so far. Larry- Thanks for the diagram picture, I should check the carb number just in case anyway. Andy- I'll take pictures of the spark plugs as soon as I can. I'm not 100% sure of the engine milage, but I was told around 80k from the car it came out of. It smokes when I rev it sometimes, but nothing serious.
now im confused I did a few things today with my whole ping issue. First started with taking the distributor out, changed to heavier springs, checked the points gap (at .016), put the distrib back in and no diff. Then I was going to jump a tooth on the distrib gear so I can retard it more, after I jumped a tooth, I didn't push the distrib in all the way, and must jumped some teeth. So I had to totally find the new #1 Piston fire positions using TDC of #1, everthing set, car starts, I set the timing to 30* total timing, (using "the wizards" guide). I go test out the car and the it bogs like a mother! I'm like, where the heck did this problem come from? I've never had problems with bogging, it must be the carb because it seems to bog as the secondaries open. Putting the orig springs I had, same thing. What the heck is going on? Could I have damaged the distrib gear (i hope not :rant: ) or could it be something else? I'm going to check the gear tommo, eeek. Thanks for any help. BTW: Is 200 degree's overheating for a 350??
Slawek, How could you set the total timing with heavier springs? How high did you rev it to set the total (At what RPM did you set it at 30*)
Hmm, Didn't think about that, I was revving it until it stopped moving up, maybe there was some more to be reved, god, I hope thats the prob. I don't know what rpm I was at, and I can't tell by ear, (yet). But could overadvancing cause this problem?
You need to set the total with the lightest springs you have. That way you can be more certain that the weights are FULLY extended when you set your total.
The set I have is from Mr.Gasket, there are Silver, Bronze and Black springs, which are the lightest? I tried telling them apart from streching them. But I'm unsure. Thanks for quick help so far.
Never used the Mr. Gasket springs. The instruction sheet should tell you. You didn't throw it away did you.
What are you setting your INITAL timing at? All I keep seeing, is total advance degrees. I keep getting the feeling that you are setting the inital timing to 30*, as opposed to the total advance.
I set the Total by making the 1.75(??) mark from the original mark on the vibration damper. I reved the engine until I didn't see it move up anymore. and set it to be at 0 on the Marks on the timing cover. I don't know what I had the initial timing set at. Woops
I supposed inital timing doesn't matter as much as total advance....I was just trying to put my mind at ease to make sure you weren't seting initial timing at 30*ou:
Success Well, today I re-did the timing, put the lightest springs in, made it about 0* initial timing with Vaccum advance off, and its about 20*? total advance, little or no pinging under WOT. If I wanted to advance more for more power I would probably have to look into the other things suggested. I checked all the plugs today, they seem kinda blackish grayish. Not normal looking. So according to Andy, I'm running rich. I couldn't take a picture because our camera wont focus upclose, (no manual focus), so my interpretation might be wrong, I cleaned them out, and put them back in. Thanks for all help!
Camera Pixel What is the megapix on your camera? Try putting the spark plug against a lighter (but not necisarily white background (I like light blue) and get the camera as close as possible while still in focus (try to stay away from digital zoom if the camera is so equiped). If it is a reasonable camera, then all we have to do is zoom in on a viewer. That's what I do when taking photos of parts in the field to send back to engineering for review. if the megpixels is like 1 and all you have is digital zoom... forget the above you're SOL... Good luck..!
Slawek, Are you familiar with the camera? Have you read the manual lately? Most digital cameras have a Macro mode for taking close up pictures. Check the manual, you may just need to push a button.
