Detonation/OverHeating

I still have to buy the springs to set my timing, are these ok?
Jegs has free shipping but a darn 10 dollar handling fee. How lame.

 

Are you still using a points-style distributor?

 

Yes, unfortunatly.

 

Have you checked the dwell and resistance lately? I had a '69 LeSabre with points and when they'd go bad, it would ping and rattle so bad you'd swear the rod bearings were out.

 

I replaced the rotor, cap, points, condenser, wires, plugs, and coil?, Could I still be getting the problem?

 

I still had the problem through a change in all of those (minus the coil). I run a 4 core radiator, although, mine happens before the engine is even warm to the touch, so Im positive that mine is due to carbon buildup. I'll be pulling the heads to get it fixed.

Sounds like yours is a heat/hot spot issue, good luck (as I stated earlier)

 

I though you were talking about some electrical stuff, now I just realized that you were talking about clearences (am I correct? ) I had the oilpan off before I put the engine in and I'm preaty sure I checked torques before reassembly, but I'm not sure about dwell and resistance, I'm gona leave that as a last resort.
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I got the springs ordered, will be here friday.

 

Checking dwell degree and dynamic resistance is something you can do with a multi-meter or any good shop should have a specific meter just for checking these readings. It's a little more accurate than just setting the points with a feeler-guage. You do this process with the car running and it should be around 30 degrees. It's been a long time since I've done this, since every car I have had the last 15 years have all been changed out to HEI.

 

Hi all!, This is an old thread but problems still exist.

Before I installed my dual exhuast, I was running about 20-30 Degree's advance, (i have the medium springs in), the ping wasnt that bad. Now after putting my dual exhaust on, it seemed to happen more!. I run premium. So to get rid of the ping which I hate, I retard the timing, I now have it so the vaccum advance canister rests against the hose that goes from water pump to intake. I don't know at what degree that is, but it still pings, under higher rpm's. What could be the problem? BTW, I've had a guage for a while, and I don't overheat.

I'm going to put octane booster in there to see it it'll reduce the pinging. But how do other people run 30degree's + without detination? Its also come to thought, that maybe a rocker arm is loose? I'm leaking oil, so I might as well check. Thanks for any further replies!.

 

Were are you leeking oil from? Fix that right away. Are you sure you don't have a stuck lifter? Start with the dwell and resistance.

 

Its just leaking through the valve cover gasket.
How would I know/check for a stuck lifter?

Are there any good articles on v8 about dwell and resistance? I have a mulimeter with resistance stuff.

 

To check for a stuck lifter just remove the valve covers with the motor cold then start it up. If there is a stuck lifter then one or more of the pushrods will be tapping against the rocker and it won't spin. Don't run it very long because oil will start shooting out the top of the pushrods. The pushrods are suppost to spin around slowly as they go up and down, if not there is a problem. Get new V. cover gaskets for reasembly, the non cork ones are what I use. Have you tried carb cleaner down the carb? Have you changed the oil and filter?

 

Well. could it still be a stuck lifter if it pinging goes away when I retard the timing? I'm still eventually going to check for stuck lifters, I have to get a set of gaskets first.

Haven't used any carb cleaner, and oil and filter were changed recently(before dual's).

 

Well it probly isn't a stuck lifter, but here another tip. Use a 1 foot long piece of rubber hose and with the engine running poke the hose along the valve covers with the other end at your ear. Use an ear plug in your other ear so you can hear the sounds coming through the tube.

I had a spun rod bearing once (on my 76 350) and I found the problem by unplugging each plug wire one by one (with he motor off), then running it, repeating untill I found the culpret. It was a tapping sound and not a knock.

Use some carb cleaner in the carb it couldn't hurt. Someone said before that it could be carbon causing the ping. I've heard that pouring a little auto trans fluid down the carb while you rev it up a bit works good to get carbon out. A big cloud of black smoke will pour out the tailpipe after you lay on the gas, thats the carbon going bye bye.

 

Hmm, so it can be a rod bearing makeing the pinging? or I didn't understand correctly, the pinging with the timing retarted as far as i can, only happens with the pedal 3/4 down.

 

It probly isn't a rod bearing but that just an example of a sound like a stuck lifter actually being something else. My bet is that it's carbon buildup, try the carb cleaner. Just to make sure, you did disconect the vacum advance canister right?

 

Yes, I have the vaccum advance plugged(disconnected) all the time, I haven't make the plate that limits the vaccum advance yet. Where do I spray the carb cleaner into? The small snorkel sticking up above the carb?, or directly into it?

 

Directly into the carb while it's running. The idea is to hold the motor at about 2000 rpms while you spray the cleaner. There should be instructions on the can. You'll probly have to adjust the idle speed down from what it was before you did this, becuase it will rev higher with the crap cleaned out. There is also adatives you can put in your gas tank that will do the same thing. I've used a can that was good for either so I used it in both the fuel and in the carb. Goodluck.