As you all know I wanted to know about the water passages so now I will show you a few pics of what is going on here. For one the intake is as high as adding a 1 inch spacer to the stock intake so keep that in mind. If you now add the 1/2 inch spacer to the stock intake as in my nitrous plate, that is as high as you can go with the carb and have a 4 inch air cleaner with a 2 inch drop base. I use a K&N Flow Control air cleaner that is 16 inches by 4 inches high. I will show you the oil mods inside the engine and my distributor with using the large gears in the oil pump. you will also see where the intake gasket got blowed out somehow in between the ports and this probably slowed me down. I have suspected that the nitrous explosion I had way back in 2005 caused this problem and I still ran a 13.31 after this, but even after the explosion the carb always acted like I was missing the romp it used to have out of the hole. I actually had to ply with the pump shots to fix this. Intake gasket blow out probably caused this. You will also see how important it is to get the intake on straight and do not move it on installation. will get back to this pics are too big to upload hosting picnic this may take a while. blowed out gaskets Distributor gear cam gear height with 1inch spacer and 1/2 inch nitrous spacer max height with my air cleaner with sp3 this is too high with 1 inch spacer Max height with this air cleaner be back later got to go
Thank you Guy, for taking the time to document and detail the process for anyone who may be interested in doing something similar. Looks good!
Thanks Gary, I still have to show the oil mods that were done in the cam valley area, but the pics are too big. I wanted to show the cam gear and the distributor gear since I DO have the large gears in my oil pump But I do have oil mods done to the oil system, everything is larger and I do have a cross drilled crank. On the intake blowouts I am sure this came from the nitrous explosion I had. That was caused by too much bottle pressure, I learned after that. But obviously the gaskets had been blow out for a long time like about 10 years. Right now I am not going to do the water system with the heads still thinking on that.
Some pics on some of the oil mods that were done. I just can't remember what they were for but they were to help, It's been over 20 years ago lol. Maybe Demko can ask Mike at the race shop why he did it when he pics up his block. You can see the plugs at each cam bearing area.
Here are some carb measurements with a Holley carb and with 1 and 1/2 inches of spacer added. There is a 1 inch spacer and a 1/2 inch nitrous plate. This is about the maximum height with the TA dual plane intake and using a 4 inch air cleaner with a 2 inch drop base.
Just figured out something, the intake bolts that I had on the DP intake are too long for the SP3 intake. So now I will have to get a hold of TA and see what they have for this. Looks like the bolts used will be the same ones used on the 455 SPX intake. Yes I am a little slow on getting this done, but I will get there and get to the track. I also did not port match the intake to the heads as this intake I have has the intake bores opened up more than the first run of intakes. Going to bolt it on like anyone else would that buys a race part, bolt on and go. The ports are smaller than my heads so we will see how this works.
Damn, wish I woulda read this this morning, I was at Michaels this morning, dropped off my iron heads, crank, and Molnar rods
Here are the size of my head ports. They are a little larger than the ports on the SP3. So they should get that nice high velocity then go into that big port opening in the heads it will go in so fast that I will gain 40 hp. It will be the ram air effect.
Looks like you'll have 1/16" all around the head ports. Worth a try. Certainly better than the opposite! Ram Air effect I like that!
Mocked up the intake and got the bolts in without the gaskets in place. My bolts are close to the bottom holes on the intake. I thought for a minute it might not make it. The flange on the SP3 is bigger than the old TA DP intake. I do not know now if the intake was cut or not when the engine was built. It does not look like it since it is not completely smooth on the old TA intake, you can see the swirl marks on it which looks factory. I would not think a race shop would cut the intake instead of the heads but you never know. Seems that my compression must be up pretty good if I am hitting the bottom of the holes on the intake with the bolts, or lets say it is very close. Now I have to add the gaskets and see it I can get it back on again, if I can, then it all goes together. My question is, if I have trouble getting the bolts in at that point can I grind a little bit of the holes to make the bolts go in easier. I would have to do that on the bottom part of the hole where the bolt hits. I got all the bolts in now without the gaskets and was able to snug them up. I am going to use the .015 gaskets I got from TA BTW, when you order the SP3 from TA get new bolts since they are all the same size now, they use ARP bolts and you get the thermostat bolts with this kit also. Almost there maybe another week now Just tried the .030 gaskets and I am having trouble getting the bolts in on some of the holes. Does not look good here at this point, I have the .015 gaskets just wanted to try the .030 to see where I am at on this. If you have a TA DP intake measure the flange and let me know what the dimension is, then I will know if my intake has been cut or not.
Thank you for your help on this. I guess I have more compression than anyone else that has put the SP3 on since no one else has had a issue with the bolts being close to the intake.
I've ground the intake holes to oval them out on some engines with no problem. Try to make them as consistent as possible. More compression, maybe, but you definitely have more block and head milling than everybody so far if it needs the holes ovaled out.
The machine shop that did my motor (terrible terrible place lol) slotted the holes on my sp3 to get it to line up since my block was zero decked (.070 or so taken off). I honestly forget which size gaskets I used but I could look it up later this week. I have a motor built for boost though so I am still only at 8.5:1. 30cc dish GN pistons
My deck was cut .050 so my pistons sat .005 in the hole, heads were shaved .030 BUT, I had Michaels cut the intake side of the heads so the intake would line up, and it did perfectly, obviously he knows what he's doing All this was my old build that is out now.
I was wondering if the bolt holes could be opened up some on the side I am having trouble with. The flange on the TA DP intake is at around .304-.315 TheSP3 intake flange is around .400 I think it was .395 to .425. So it is a lot thicker than the TA DP I had on there. Thanks for info Mike that is a something I was hoping I could go with. I did not want to cut the intake until I got the new heads as this will dictate what to do.
